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Thread: ESE's works engine tuner

  1. #4816
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    20th July 2010 - 07:56
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    Quote Originally Posted by speedpro View Post
    Oooooh, spare wheels
    What about the forks, I see at least 3 sets.

  2. #4817
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    20th October 2010 - 20:59
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    Quote Originally Posted by kel View Post
    What about the forks, I see at least 3 sets.
    1 set of each for the RS. 1 rear shock for my RG50. I have to settle some dets with the rest

  3. #4818
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    7th September 2009 - 09:47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gigglebutton View Post
    Yay Rs frame arived from Aus today. Should be on the F4 grid in about a year when Wobs works out what motor to use.
    Looks like some stuff I saw on Aussie Ebay a couple of months ago.

  4. #4819
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    Quote Originally Posted by jasonu View Post
    Looks like some stuff I saw on Aussie Ebay a couple of months ago.
    The guy is the vice president of Aus buckets. He pulled the listing and we cut a deal for all the bits when i said it was for a bucket. Nice bloke, really helpful.

  5. #4820
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gigglebutton View Post
    The guy is the vice president of Aus buckets. He pulled the listing and we cut a deal for all the bits when i said it was for a bucket. Nice bloke, really helpful.
    Should try get him over here for a GP or BoB.
    Heinz Varieties

  6. #4821
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    Quote Originally Posted by koba View Post
    Should try get him over here for a GP or BoB.
    He's keen as to race here and us to race there. We may be up against it, with the motor they run. He recons 30hp 4 strokes over there. Here's the link to their site

    http://www.ozbucketracing.com/

  7. #4822
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gigglebutton View Post
    He's keen as to race here and us to race there. We may be up against it, with the motor they run. He recons 30hp 4 strokes over there. Here's the link to their site

    http://www.ozbucketracing.com/
    The way to do it would be to use the bikes of the host country, work some way to make loaning viable, such ans endurance event with multiple riders per bike.

    Anyway, this has been mentioned before, I'm sure it will happen one day.

    I'm going to shut up now and let the ESE boys have their thread back.
    Heinz Varieties

  8. #4823
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    23rd January 2004 - 12:00
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gigglebutton View Post
    He's keen as to race here and us to race there. We may be up against it, with the motor they run. He recons 30hp 4 strokes over there. Here's the link to their site

    http://www.ozbucketracing.com/
    Was/is that Ken Lindsay? Isnt he an ex Kiwi? I see an RGV250 with an XR200 motor there. RS125 rolling chassis with Honda MX CRF150r 4valve motor fitted. RS85R's .... certainly different rules to what we run ....

    Wow, his CB150 is a work of art too, cool idea with the rear shock mounts too
    http://www.ozbucketracing.com/buildi...cketracer.html

  9. #4824
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    30th April 2011 - 04:57
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    Wink web sites

    pit-lane.biz ......gp125 from top of page ... view aprillia 125 characteristics page 22 on wards although some of the posts are in french , their are some very interesting 2 stroke tuning posts by a fella called fitzs overmars regarding 2 stroke engine developement... would just like to say ive enjoyed reading all of the posts from this ese thread and all the info which has been freely given...thanks, from the land of milk and honey(england)

  10. #4825
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    20th October 2010 - 20:59
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    Quote Originally Posted by gav View Post
    Was/is that Ken Lindsay? Isnt he an ex Kiwi? I see an RGV250 with an XR200 motor there. RS125 rolling chassis with Honda MX CRF150r 4valve motor fitted. RS85R's .... certainly different rules to what we run ....

    Wow, his CB150 is a work of art too, cool idea with the rear shock mounts too
    http://www.ozbucketracing.com/buildi...cketracer.html
    Trevor Lusby is the bloke i dealt with. They changed their rules to make it cheaper to race and the bikes are not 30 years old and hard to get parts for

  11. #4826
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    I have more foolish question for all you wise ones out there

    there is a few small pieces of melted piston smeared around the top of my barrel. It looks ok once I can get this off, no big scratches. I was recommended to use liquid soldering flux, or caustic soda. Got a small bottle of liquid flux today and put a little on and...... nothing. I will try leaving it on overnight and see if that has more effect. Has any one done this before is there a crucial step I'm missing or just need more time?

    Also one of the bearings has left an interesting mark on the crank. Doesn't seem to be an issue, I'v so far put it down to 'shit happens' but maybe someone can shed some light as to the cause?
    Click image for larger version. 

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    ps. while crank is out I'm going to polish the journals so crank is floating as per Wobbly's suggestion. Maybe try those flash pheno-lick bearings too if I have the funds.

  12. #4827
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    18th May 2007 - 20:23
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    Quote Originally Posted by ac3_snow View Post
    there is a few small pieces of melted piston smeared around the top of my barrel. It looks ok once I can get this off, no big scratches. I was recommended to use liquid soldering flux, or caustic soda. Got a small bottle of liquid flux today and put a little on and...... nothing.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Both work, your on the right track, keep the alloy crap wet, use cotton buds or similar, takes time, barrel will go a little rusty, clean up with wet and dry, clean up afterwards with hot soapy water and rinse off with hot fresh water.

    Quote Originally Posted by ac3_snow View Post
    Also one of the bearings has left an interesting mark on the crank. Doesn't seem to be an issue, I'v so far put it down to 'shit happens' but maybe someone can shed some light as to the cause?

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	245940

    ps. while crank is out I'm going to polish the journals so crank is floating as per Wobbly's suggestion. Maybe try those flash pheno-lick bearings too if I have the funds.
    A brown mark like that is often seen when the brg is loose (floating) on the shaft. On a TF/TS the drive side with the nut shouldn't float, the magneto side should be the floater.

  13. #4828
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    caustic soda on a damp rag left overnight. Use gloves & eye protection, this seemingly innocuous stuff can be dangerous. Avail from supermarket. Doesn't last forever but lasts years if kept dry.

    Keep away from ally. ok on steel bores. May be an issue on plated ally bores as it could potentially seep though the plating & attack the ally behind (that is just a theory).
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  14. #4829
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    20th January 2010 - 14:41
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    Quote Originally Posted by ac3_snow View Post
    I have more foolish question for all you wise ones out there

    there is a few small pieces of melted piston smeared around the top of my barrel. It looks ok once I can get this off, no big scratches. I was recommended to use liquid soldering flux, or caustic soda. Got a small bottle of liquid flux today and put a little on and...... nothing. I will try leaving it on overnight and see if that has more effect. Has any one done this before is there a crucial step I'm missing or just need more time?

    Also one of the bearings has left an interesting mark on the crank. Doesn't seem to be an issue, I'v so far put it down to 'shit happens' but maybe someone can shed some light as to the cause?
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	P8310010.jpg 
Views:	68 
Size:	416.5 KB 
ID:	245940Click image for larger version. 

Name:	P8310006.jpg 
Views:	75 
Size:	397.6 KB 
ID:	245939

    ps. while crank is out I'm going to polish the journals so crank is floating as per Wobbly's suggestion. Maybe try those flash pheno-lick bearings too if I have the funds.
    I am old but not to wise. I have seen talk of people using Muriatic acid.I have no experience of using it though
    It would seem to be Hydrochloric acid by another name so be cafeful.
    Available from the Chem. lab at the uni of your choice for free I believe. What are you studying at Uni Snow. Ornithology ,The effects of Acohol on adolescent girls I guess and ?

    I copied this from the net so a grain of salt may be required.I do note that NZ cylinders recomend it for plated cylinders.so it can't be too bad

    If the piston has seized and smeared aluminum on the cylinder you will need to remove it before you measure it. You can do this with Muriatic acid. Just take medicine dropper and put just a few drops on the aluminum that has been smeared in the cylinder. The acid will eat the aluminum but will not hurt the steel of the cylinder. DO NOT GET THE ACID ON YOU . If you do get it on yourself, water and baking soda will get it off. Also don't get it on any aluminum unless you want that aluminum eaten up ! You can get Muriatic Acid at any home improvement store. They sell it buy the gallon, which will do about a billion cylinders. I'm not sure what they use it for... swimming pools or something.



    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  15. #4830
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    18th May 2007 - 20:23
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    Quote Originally Posted by breezy View Post
    pit-lane.biz ......gp125 from top of page ... view aprillia 125 characteristics page 22 on wards although some of the posts are in french , their are some very interesting 2 stroke tuning posts by a fella called fitzs overmars regarding 2 stroke engine developement... would just like to say ive enjoyed reading all of the posts from this ese thread and all the info which has been freely given...thanks, from the land of milk and honey(england)
    Thankyou for your interest, Team ESE ...........

    Although this thread is mostly about 2-strokes because that is what we have, any serious engine tuning/development effort is interesting and your welcome to post technical tit bits about your own projects if you like.

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