Beginner's question: how do you delete a post?
Beginner's question: how do you delete a post?
The case vol is already pretty big in that engine ( under 1.3) - but my hazy memory seems to say that the inlet timing was pretty conservative, and wasnt changed when the case vol went up.
Current thinking in a road race setup would indicate 145/90 is the outer limits of whats needed so this could be tried, opening up one side at a time.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
Two steps.
The first button only shows on your own posts.
Once they get past a certain age I don't think they can be deleted or edited.
A moderator can delete anything, I think.
Heinz Varieties
Hey Frits welcome to New Zealand, great to see another Dutchman on the forum !!
My neighbours diary says I have boundary issues
Attached is a copy of two articles on the Honda nsr500 water injection system trailed once.
I believe as spelled out by Wobbly who was there, At the meeting where Doohan tried it and as he could only say, it was crap. Then dumped.
I got a little flack (Well quite a lot actually) last time I brought it up.Then kel posted an brief article surrounding it. that did seem to suggest it was crap indeed.
The problem Wob mentioned was that although it worked to increase low end power it was too slow in reheating the pipe after use so it either didn't work or it killed the top end. Fair call.
I believe it still has merit. Why assuming the engine is developed with a ignition optimised and power valve system optimized.
As well as porting. It is one of the few areas left to improve low and mid range power. By 24%
Now I had seen an articles and I always assumed like, I guess everyone else.
That Honda injected water into the pipe.
Well, it would seem. they did not.
Why else would they have a radiator for the water injection system?
Also why does the pipe look like a water jacket?
I believe it was a water cooled pipe only. The article below should (hopefully) back this up.
After the pipe is cooled by the water injection. To heat the pipe I envisage using the system Honda have used a system along with other manufacturers on four strokes (Bikes and cars) that inject air into the pipe to lower emissions. A by product of this reaction is the unburnt fuel left in the exhaust is burnt thus creating heat.
The system I envisage is a true water injection into a header pipe powered by compressed air from a cylinder controlled by a solenoid triggered by the ignition at low throttle openings and revs for a 24% power increase as specified by Flecks experiments. The pipe can then be reheated an instant after the throttle and the revs indicate full power top end power is required by adding fresh air to the pipe (hopefully Stainless) Well that's my theory. Below is Kels article and the one I found.
There is a long YouTube story Honda's water injection But it is alas in Italian.
I would love to understand what is says.
I would also love to see a copy of the fleck SAE papers relating to water injection.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ousgsIbW7WY
http://homepage.mac.com/rg500delta/D...Waterinjection
http://www.suzuki-rg500.com/water.htm
http://http://homepage.mac.com/rg500delta/Delta/image/water.jpg
I have also contrived. (What i think at least) Is cunning way to seal and operate a variable pipe length to further increase top end power to run in conjunction with this.
Last edited by husaberg; 13th October 2011 at 18:20. Reason: Added a pic for Bucketracer
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Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
Sunday was a great day racing at Mt Wellington. Beautiful weather, good people, just needed my own bike!
Ended up racing a FXR again (becoming a bit much of a regular occurrence unfortunately). I got my bike out on the track for the first practice round....then blew the head off. Came back in and it was sitting loose, o-ring/head-gasket blown to bits and two of the head studs had started ripping the thread out of the barrel. For a while I thought the cause may have simply been my dodgy compression measurements giving my higher than 14.66:1 but, I only had 165psi which to me is not enough to pull the studs out. Anyway will have to helicoil them and try again.
Speedpro suggested I may have got a bit carried away tightening them and weakened the thread, quite possible that my tourqewrench (read: right hand and powerbar) wasn't calibrated correctly![]()
Hey Frits nice to see you imparting your wisdom here.
Just cracked open a Rotax 256 had 155/90 as the disc timing.........kart blokes bless em all
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"Instructions are just the manufacturers opinion on how to install it" Tim Taylor of "Tool Time"
“Saying what we think gives us a wider conversational range than saying what we know.” - Cullen Hightower
BMEP the gauge that allows the serious engine developer a direct way to compare different internal combustion engines, from lawn mower to massive prime movers.
2-T BMEP (psi) = HP x 6,500 / L x RPM
4-T BMEP (psi) = HP x 13,000 / L x RPM
where L = Liter and converting PSI to Bar is Bar = PSI x 0.069
Arrr … yess …… I did a Google search before posting these handy formulas too ……..
SS, I am lucky your so well qualified, because you could help me with some of that real world industry experiance of yours and flesh out the BMEP concept a bit as I am particularly interested in the how the idea was developed and the way the BMEP formula itself was derived.
I could research it some more on the net, but hearing it straight from the experienced developer in his own words would be so much more real and insightful, for sure.
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