Don't know if this helps but this is a pulse circuit.
Speedpro was mentioning something similar
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=KC5384&keywords=pulse&form=KEYWORD
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Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
all these talks of solenoids and power jets perhaps a simple EFI system would be better?
http://www.mbe-motorsports.com/catal...roducts_id/337
http://www.ecotrons.com/2_Stroke_Sma...e_EFI_kit.html
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There is a current discussion on ekartingnews about EFI 2T http://ekartingnews.com/viewtopic.ph...r=asc&start=75
They have a pic of a CR500. Some guys are creating their own using known fuel distribution curve and neediel/tube graphs as a guide for fuel flow.
Its a big one sorry all this talk of piggy back circuits.
These curcuits can also be used in numerous ways partically like a couple of them.
Refer: Silicon Chip January 2007 This kit stops the air conditioner in your car from taking engine power when accelerating such as when you're overtaking or going up a hill. It automatically switches the air conditioner's compressor off when the engine is at a high throttle setting and will allow the compressor to run with low throttle even when the cabin temperature setting has been reached. It also automatically switches the compressor off at idle. When the throttle position is normal the compressor will operate normally. The kit features an override switch, an LED function indicator and is supplied with PCB with overlay and all electronic components. > Recommended box UB3 HB-6013.
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...UBCATID=965#11
This kit operates a relay when a preset temperature is exceeded and drops-out the relay when temperature drops. The relay included is capable of switching small currents only, so a larger relay or switching device should be employed if switching mains voltages or heavy currents. Ideal as a thermostat, ice alarm, hydroponics applications, etc. A small trimpot is used to adjust the cutout temperatures for the relay in the range of approx -30 to +150 degrees celcius. €Kit includes NTC thermocouple.
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...UBCATID=965#11
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...o&form=KEYWORD
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...UBCATID=965#11
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...o&form=KEYWORD
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...o&form=KEYWORD
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...o&form=KEYWORD
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...UBCATID=965#11
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...o&form=KEYWORD
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...UBCATID=965#11
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...UBCATID=965#11
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...UBCATID=965#11
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...UBCATID=965#11
I mentioned 555 curcuit earlier. Most sensors give output in voltages 1-5 volts something along the lines below will enable a sensor to say pulse a powerjet?
One of the most fundamental problems in robotics is DC motor speed control. The most common method of speed control is PWM or pulse width modulation. Pulse width modulation is the process of switching the power to a device on and off at a given frequency, with varying on and off times. These on and off times are referred to as "duty cycle". The diagram below shows the waveforms of 10%, 50%, and 90% duty cycle signals.
As you can see from the diagram, a 10% duty cycle signal is on for 10% of the wavelength and off for 90%, while a 90% duty cycle signal is on for 90% and off for 10%. These signals are sent to the motor at a high enough frequency that the pulsing has no effect on the motor. The end result of the PWM process is that the overall power sent to the motor can be adjusted from off (0% duty cycle) to full on (100% duty cycle) with good efficiency and stable control.
While many robot builders use a microcontroller to generate the required PWM signals, the 555 PWM circuit explained here will give the novice robot builder an easy to construct circuit, and good understanding of pulse width modulation. It is also useful in a variety of other applications where the PWM setting need only be changed occasionally.
The 555 timer in the PWM circuit is configured as an astable oscillator. This means that once power is applied, the 555 will oscillate without any external trigger. Before the technical explanation of the circuit, let's look at the 555 timer IC itself.
http://www.dprg.org/tutorials/2005-11a/index.html
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Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
PWM control of the powerjet is a very sexy use of technology,slowly ramping off the fuel flow against rpm, but in reality using a simple rpm controlled switched solenoid work perfectly fine.
Yamaha and Honda have used the switched powerjet since forever, its reliable and does the job.
Only issue you need to address is the jet size and switch point ( along with TPS value ).
Running Avgas as we are still allowed to do, means that the tuning is based around getting high egt numbers to create good power, with lots of com and advance - unleaded is the opposite..
Thus experience has shown that as leaded fuel works best with a lean condition at peak power, we only need to switch a small jet just past peak - to increase the pipe temp and
thus give better overev.
In the Keihin numbering this is in mm dia and switching off a .35 is perfect.
When running unleaded, as the GP bikes have for years, the fuel likes to be rich at peak to create the best power, thus we need to switch off alot of fuel flow to increase the pipe heat quickly enough.
In this case a .65 is needed to do the job.
On the dyno or on the track it is easy to tell if the switch point is a little too low, as it feels exactly like the bike has changed into another gear past 6th.
It jumps forward when the solenoid kicks in - making the fuel curve lean, too early.Do this enough - and bang.
Its critical to 100rpm, and is working perfectly when you dont feel it happen - the power just keeps going.
To do it on the dyno you have to run the bike in 6th to simulate the acceleration rate as seen in that gear on the track, and is easy to do running back to back run ups.
Changing the rpm number 100 at a time, lower in the Ignitech, reprogram on the fly and run again.
If the rpm is too high - nothing happens, as there isnt time for the heat to affect the pipe wave speed.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
Right i had a wee search on the net.
The genuine kit is a little expensive, I couldn't find the Keihin but here is the Mikuni, as you know i had already posted this.$303nz.
Maybe the Keihin kit is less expensive.
I haven't had the chance to look through Sudco yet.
Had a wee look at Sudco it seems the soilniod is not listed as a separate part bugger.
Here is one from the UK Mikuni person no prices.
http://www.allensperformance.co.uk/p... jet kits.html
I also found this with the dimensions of a lot of inlet manifolds etc
http://www.allensperformance.co.uk/p...manifolds.html
TZ's keihin copy carbs i believe have a Powerjet the obvious way to me for a budget conscious bucket racer would be to modify this for electric use with a car solenoid.
There is another option but i am not posting that until i have got one myself.
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Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
Nice explantion on powerjets here no that theres anything wrong with wobs.
http://superkartaus.com/Forums/index...opic=77.0;wap2
Adjustable powerjet it looks like it would be easy to make as well addthis with an electric controll or just adjust the pulse to your needs as Wob said would be very6 Sexy but prob a bit OTT.
http://www.twostrokeracelab.com/sear...ble%20Powerjet
The rest of the site is well worth a look as well.
Here is a 12volt solenoid that looks capable assuming there isn't a car wrecker part to suit around.
I have priced the Genuine Mikuni kit a $200 US so it is a tad expensive.
Remember though what ever the set up it has to be so if it fails it will not lean out the mixture.For obvious reasons
QTY 1+ $41.90 5+ $37.90 10+ $33.40
http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productResul...3&keyform=CAT2
Of course if stepper motors are more your deal there is this.
[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Owner/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtml1/01/clip_image002.jpg[/IMG]
12VDC 48 Step / 7.5° Stepper Motor
• Standard 48 step / 7.5° design.
• Flange mount 3.0mm hardened steel shaft.
Specifications:
• Rated voltage: 12VDC
• Rated current: 1.1A/phase
• Phases: 4
• Steps per revolution: 48
• Stepping angle: 7.5°
• Drive method: Unipolar chopper drive
• Resistance per winding: 20 ohms
• Starting frequency: 600pps (max)
• Holding torque: 700g/cm
QTY 1+ $23.90 5+ $21.30 10+ $18.90
http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView....r&form=KEYWORD
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Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
Suzuki RGV/Aprilia RS 250's (along with NSR/TZR's) have emissions air soleniods fitted to the pilot and main air corrector circuits. With an Ignitech or Zeeltronic you can trim the fuel by adding air to extend over rev. Beats changing jets.
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