I don't know either why pick-up voltage would be required.
Perhaps it has something to do with the amperage limit of the output wire?
I don't know either why pick-up voltage would be required.
Perhaps it has something to do with the amperage limit of the output wire?
Taper Bored 24mm OKO, its 24mm at the very front, 29mm at the slide and 31mm at the manifold end.
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In the middle picture you can clearly see the air correction jet, its just a drilling in the carb body. It was about 0.8mm and I have opened it to 1.45 but after reading Riches post I will try bigger.
Posted because someone asked me where the Power Jet is positioned on my carb.
My plan is to use an electric air solenoid (purchased from JayCar) to bleed air into the powerjet to interrupt its function below 7,000 rpm or so.
I will try to keep this post small i will trim it down a bit later and put it more in an order etc.
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Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
I´m having a wonder here..
Why not restrict the airflow where there´s no fuel blended in into the airmass.
Then you can choose an.. say 36mm carb and build a big plenum on the carb with an perfect lavalnozzle at 24mm?
Take a look at Formula 3 cars.
They have an HUGE plenum with a tiny restrictor, inside the plenum theres an long diverging kone to stack upp the air again.
Or are you restricted by rules that carb MUST be 24mm?
pics:
By looking at your modded Koso carb i think it might be worth a test, but it might be a problematic one to jet correct.
(A cone like this you lathed is to be at 7degrees+-1.)
Why jettingproblems?
because you got the highest airspeed at the very front of the carb, not at the point where you want it,, at the venturi where the needle is located.
You just might 'choke' the airflow at the front of carb.
Rgds
Patrick
I would lift the main port to 80* then lift the B & C ports to around 114.5 or so.
You have the perfect tool to see if the STAs are in the ballpark - run it thru EngMod and see what happens.
Means you have a setup that mirrors the Aprilia design philosophy.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
BOSCH p/n 0 261 231 046
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Other sensors can be found here too. http://www.bosch.com.au/content/language1/html/4563.htm
Frits has mentioned this at some stage. The idea being only the airflow was restricted before the additional mass of the fuel mixed in with it if i recall correctly.
Found it thread tools rock. I knew Frits would have a picture.
Still a good idea though.
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Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
TeeZees carb has the 24mm restriction ahead of the slide so only air passes through it and I think he was actually testing it before Frits suggested it. But in reality on TeeZees engine there is a fare bit of fog when its making max power so its probably a moot point. This is the carb he used on his 31rwhp setup.
The answer to the, three times past the main jet fog at max power question suggested by Frits, was that the fog may indicate the inlet stream is bouncing off the closing disk and that it may be possible to shut the inlet a little later.
ok, a question for the panel;
Small end bearing axial (to piston) clearance; How much is too much? Obviously if the bearing can travel far enough so the rollers touch the edge of the rod they will grab on the sharp end & lock immediately causing mondo destruction. I found this out the hard way running RD50 pistons in my MB50 20 years ago, they needed thrust washers in that application.
The MB pistons (in the 50 as the 100, which is what I'm now talking about, the 100) are bevelled at the piston pin bosses. They leave a scant .4mm clearance at the top & ~4mm at the bottom, which is obviously nice for lubrication. Yamaha KT pistons are straight edged at the bosses.
The OEM stuff I have measured for small pistons seems to run 1mm clearance, so .5 per side. 250cc cylinders run up to almost 2mm it seems.
So I'm left with the suitability question over 17mm wide MB SE bearing in a Yam piston with 19.2mm between the bosses, so 2.2mm clearance. With a wider rod it should not make it out of the small end.
I'm not overly happy with the 2.5mm rollers (making for a 14x19 bearing) that only has 11 rollers, but they seem to go ok in std bikes. Most of the 18x14 brgs seem to run 12 rollers.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
I had a quick look at the 3Ex GP125 in Engmod.
Lifting the main Ex to 80* needs to have the B,C transfers lifted to 113.8* to get the STA near balanced again.
It will then have staggered Ex plus reverse staggered transfers,Mr Thiel would be proud.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
I was recently asked about servos for the Ignitec and if I thought a Radio Control servo could be used for the exhaust power valve.
Well I don't think so, or at least not easily or without a bit of work, and they are only 3 to 5V or so too.
My understanding is that a normal power valve servo is a motor and feedback potentiometer. And how it works is that the Ignitec is shown where the fully open and fully closed points are, ie 100% travel. Then the Ignitec can position the power valve anywhere from 0% closed to 100% open using the feed back potentiometer.
A RC servo works the same internally but is controlled by a variable input frequency transmitted from the pilots radio hand set. As the pilot wiggles a knob the frequency of that knobs channel changes a little bit and that tells a little chip inside the RC servo the changes to make.
RC Servo
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An RC Servo Tester mimicks the pilots handset, you turn the knob on the tester to vary the frequency being sent to the RC servo and hence its position.
The change in frequency is interpreted by the chip inside the RC servo.
And the chip positions the servo motor using an internal feedback potentiometer just like the Ignitec does with a power valve servo.
I was able to use a RC servo to open/close the Vtec Valve by using two RC Servo testers, one set to open, the other to closed and a Relay that the Ignitec activated when it was time to open the Vtec.
It may be possible to cut into a RC servo and bypass its internal electronics and modify it to work like a normal power valve servo.
This link may show more: http://www.societyofrobots.com/actuators_servos.shtml
If anyone manages to modify a high torque RC servo to work as an ordinary power valve servo, it would be great to have the details posted here.
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