ESE's works engine tuner

[kel]

Bare front GSXR Suzuki 3.5"x17" 4.5kg

The alloy sprockets I bought from Bill Syfan ($25NZ each) weigh approximately 300grams, add a light disc and you have a very light weight rear wheel set up.

[husaberg]

The alloy sprockets I bought from Bill Syfan ($25NZ each) weigh approximately 300grams, add a light disc and you have a very light weight rear wheel set up.

My weights had tires i think. You might want to consider one of those as well

[Ocean1]

Bare front GSXR Suzuki 3.5"x17" 4.5kg

I see Buell have shaved the front wheel on their new rig down some more.

2.45 Kilos.

[crazy man]

My weights had tires i think. You might want to consider one of those as well

do you need tires in buckets did not think they make any hp to worry about them

[richban]

Attachment 264015 Attachment 264014

Bare front GSXR Suzuki 3.5"x17" 4.5kg

I have a 3.5 x 17 Marchesini honda front that weighs in at 2.2 kg if you have a spare $550.

[richban]

Attachment 264015 Attachment 264014

Bare front GSXR Suzuki 3.5"x17" 4.5kg

Just thinking about that. By the time you add the disk, mounting bolts both sides and tire it will be about 10kg. Also there is a lot of weight on the outside rim. So thats not so good. More power needed to get it spining and more breaks needed to get it stopped. That plan might not give the results you were after. But yes a set of RS wheels does not come cheap. Maybe the spoked wheel could be a better option. Just re-lace the wheel with some nice thin spokes. Can you make them tubeless?

[kel]

My weights had tires i think. You might want to consider one of those as well

Oh yeah tyre. What planet are you guys on? We're using titanium hardware and alloy disc (its just for show) the wheel's going to be seriously light

[Grumph]

The standard GSXR wheel is the starting point - it has material thicknesses designed/required for much larger and heavier bikes.
If you've got the time and a big lathe there are savings which can be made.
I saw a homemade carbon fiber rear disc in use in NZ F3 in the early 90's - it can be done and has been.
Taking weight out of chassis parts just takes time....and imagination.

[bucketracer]

Maybe the spoked wheel could be a better option. Just re-lace the wheel with some nice thin spokes. Can you make them tubeless?

Yes Chambers has been able to seal the spoke nipples and make his spoked wheels tubeless.

I have a 3.5 x 17 Marchesini honda front that weighs in at 2.2 kg if you have a spare $550.

A spare $550 nope ...... I don't think TeeZee will want to go there, especially as he will want two matching Fronts and two Rears, $2200 all up just for bare wheels.

By the time you add the disk, mounting bolts both sides and tire it will be about 10kg.

Still likely to be lighter than the current FZR 3Ln rear at 12.5kg. 2.5 kg at least, more with lighter brake and sprocket parts and a little luck. Lighter at the back was the objective.

The standard GSXR wheel is the starting point - Taking weight out of chassis parts just takes time....and imagination.

I think TeeZees plan is to gather up some readily available and not to expensive bits and bobs to see what can be done.

[husaberg]

The standard GSXR wheel is the starting point - it has material thicknesses designed/required for much larger and heavier bikes.
If you've got the time and a big lathe there are savings which can be made.
I saw a homemade carbon fiber rear disc in use in NZ F3 in the early 90's - it can be done and has been.
Taking weight out of chassis parts just takes time....and imagination.

Its an idea the only point is knowing where to stop even the experts can get that bit wrong Remember
Marvic,Robert Dunlop and the TT (there was no V4 victory from Mr Dunlop that year.)



I would suggest cutting one open first to see, what is there.

PS was the F3 bike Mr Tony? Mcmurdo?

If i could keep my wheels from floating away i would give you the weight of mine.
But i can tell you my caliper is bloody light and has special light weight pistons.

[bucketracer]

After seeing that crash TeeZee said he is not brave enough to peddle his Bucket at 160mph or more around the Island

[husaberg]

After seeing that crash TeeZee said he is not brave enough to peddle his Bucket at 160mph or more around the Island

Fair call i would say it cost Marvic a fair bit of dough though.

Koosman (Not sure of the spelling, but used to make nice yokes as well) in the USA used to do a roaring trade making std wheels wider and 18 into 17 etc'
It was quite a lot alike how the steel wheels were widdened on Ford Escorts and the like back in the day.
You could then widen your options for donor wheels.
I would guess that the 125 and 250 have lighter wheels the NSR250's had options of Magnecks not sure of the widths though.
Might be too skinny and too fat.

[Frits Overmars]

Chambers has been able to seal the spoke nipples and make his spoked wheels tubeless.

There is a bit more to a tubeless rim than just airtightness. A tire with an inner tube can move a bit in its bed without dire consequences because the tube will A: contain the air, and B: push the tire back into position. Tubeless tires do not have this luxury. Therefore a tubeless rim has humps at the inner sides of the tire bed to keep the tire firmly in place and sealed at all times.
99% of tube-type rims have no inner humps. If you fit tubeless tires on them, you are flirting with death. That is not an exaggeration; it has happened.
If you insist on wire-spoked wheels with tubeless tires, be sure to use dedicated rims with inner humps.

[husaberg]

There is a bit more to a tubeless rim than just airtightness. A tire with an inner tube can move a bit in its bed without dire consequences because the tube will A: contain the air, and B: push the tire back into position. Tubeless tires do not have this luxury. Therefore a tubeless rim has humps at the inner sides of the tire bed to keep the tire firmly in place and sealed at all times.
99% of tube-type rims have no inner humps. If you fit tubeless tires on them, you are flirting with death. That is not an exaggeration; it has happened.
If you insist on wire-spoked wheels with tubeless tires, be sure to use dedicated rims with inner humps.

Unfortunately these are not available in 17 but you get the idea.

It's not about going tubeless for the sake of eliminating tubes. It's all about the countless benefits of going TUbliss® that makes every rider and racer better, faster, and more in control.
TUbliss® is, essentially, a high pressure rim lock and seal that secures the entire tire bead to the rim, completely eliminating the use of a conventional tube. TUbliss® allows you to run a low tire pressure (as low as 10 psi) which dramatically improves traction; especially important for enduro and baja racing. Since there's no conventional tube, the days of pinched tubes and flats are over! Even if you get a tire puncture, the bead stays seated to the rim.
The 100 psi TUbliss® inner bladder literally clamps the entire bead and side wall of the tire to the rim, providing full bead lock performance around the full circumference of the rim. The seal is formed against the inside of the tire itself, not the rim, so it holds the tire firmly and makes the sidewalls stay upright and absorb the full impact, unlike bending and deflection you get with conventional tubes. Because of the design, TUbliss® will even work with the most dented, dinged, or tweaked rim.
Tubliss Benefits
Tubliss SizesImproved Traction.
TUbliss® secures the bead so securely that it allows a low tire pressure for improved straight line traction without the risk of a pinch flat or tire bead slippage. Because Tubliss® means you can much lower tire pressures, traction is improved which is especially important for Baja and Enduro riders. You have no tubes to be concerned with, so lower pressure with Tubliss® means you'll never pinch a tube! Replace old technology with a stronger, modern and efficient system. Even if you get a tire puncture, the bead stays seated to the rim.
Virtually Flat Proof TUbliss® really is virtually flat proof when used with a tire sealant. Sealants can't work on tubes where holes in the rubber stretch and tear. With TUbliss®, your sealant works directly on the tire where it matters. Plus, the design of TUbliss® helps keep the tire seated on the bead and the sidewalls more stable, virtually making "flat wobbles" a thing of the past. Riders have reported riding longer and harder, completely unaware that they had a tire puncture.
Weight Savings TUbliss® also provides a weight savings of up to 3 pounds per wheel which instantly translates into less rotating weight and increases acceleration. Less unsprung weight allows significant suspension performance gains. Experts say that eliminating a pound of rotating unsprung weight is equivalent to dropping 5 pounds of static weight!
Runs Cooler Without the weight and friction of a conventional tube installed, tire temperatures are greatly reduced. This also eliminates tire pressure increases during the course of a moto.
Rim Protection TUbliss® protects the rim from dings and dents by holding the tire firmly and making the sidewalls stay upright and absorb the full impact, unlike bending and deflection of conventional tubes.

http://tubliss.com/

[TZ350]

... http://tubliss.com/ ...

There is a bit more to a tubeless rim than just airtightness. A tire with an inner tube can move a bit in its bed without dire consequences because the tube will A: contain the air, and B: push the tire back into position. Tubeless tires do not have this luxury. Therefore a tubeless rim has humps at the inner sides of the tire bed to keep the tire firmly in place and sealed at all times. 99% of tube-type rims have no inner humps. If you insist on wire-spoked wheels with tubeless tires, be sure to use dedicated rims with inner humps.

Interesting about the tubeless rims, thanks for the heads up.