The problem with trying to make any sense of what is happening in the sim, or reality for that matter, with an RZ is that
the Powervalve curve is out to lunch - its fully up way too late and this is what is probably causing the dip.
I havnt done a full stock RZ file for EngMod to look at what is going on.
Send me the pack file in a PM and i will check it out.
Time and again many clever fabricators/designers have built pipes that simply dont work as they should.
Until now we have been stymied,but with the programmable Ignitech having a servo function we can tailor the curve correctly.
I have had rads made with twin core (2 times 20mm ) as the next std size would be 50mm
The thick core is all but impossible to bend without crinkling the tubes I understand.
Plus if you need a step in the side profile to get wheel clearance this is easily done with one short core.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
Light bulb. That in itself may help if I need to get one made for my 496 as it gets real close there.
But now sorry I have to ask about the thermostat arrangement. It appears as a bypass path. But that would require a valve with considerably less restriction than a rad?
Also I see the over sized pump cover & conclude you've fitted a Ultra high flow impeller. I saw a comment from the manufacturer that said they weren't 100% they made an improvement, some customers reported one & some not. Guess that would depend on how quick you could cool the rad.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
The 20mm impeller flows way more than the 13mm stocker, but you have to be able to flow alot more all the way thru he system.
The bypass has a 42* thermo valve that progressively closes off the return to the suction side.
It cycles around this point with alot of hysteresis,and the engine will run all day at around 52*,with the hottest or coldest air temp and
no rad tape needed.
In the 485 with just an uprated impeller,it would overheat after around 5 mins of idle, and was very hard to cool on the dyno.
On the road it was fine.
With the Ultra impeller it doesnt overheat at all - end of story.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
Ahh that does sound a better option & no thermo to pass over would help flow. I see an upgrade path if I need to go that way when I get back onto the 496. So many projects.
Ohh, talking of which; as I type this a small envelope with a Knock Gauge has arrived.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Help .... computer freezes when programming Ignitecs Sparker DC-CDIP 2 Race programmable ignition unit.
I have tried three different laptops, one serial, two USB and several different Race 2 ignition units but after a while the computer does not recognize the ignition unit and the software displays the red "No Connection" sign.
But you can leave the computer connected to the ignition unit all day and running no problem but oddly, after a while the computer freezes when the engine is running, so whats that about?
Some times disconnecting the cable and reconnecting it works, but this does not last long before the no connection sign comes back. May be, only long enough to re program the ignition unit and sometimes not that long. It's as if the port becomes over loaded.
I have not had this problem with the other models of Ignitec ignition units that I have worked with so I expect it is just a Race 2 software problem.
Does anyone have a solution???? suggestions ......
I did not realise that you had the problem with the engine running.
This will simply be RF on the usb port - get a usb series isolator that is specifically designed to stop this problem.
Usb is very prone to noise, serial is much less so.
It will be the specific setup of the Race that you are using it in.
Is the coil drive wire isolated from all the others - is the coil/plug wire away from the ECU, are both the plug and the cao 5K resistance, is the usb cable well away from any other wiring, etc etc.
I had a similar problem with an RS125 motor - the coil wire was right next to the TPS wires for about 200mm and the coil signal was feeding back to the ECU.
I could see the false triggering making the rpm reading on the screen jump to 18,000 rpm - this would trip the rev limiter and make it backfire.
Run the coil wire around the other side of the carb, all by itself, and problem solved - including the laptop freezing up.
I have been having lots of recent problems with differing usb adapters that freeze the computer after several reprogrammes, using just the battery.
It has started to happen since Ignitech made available a new "one for all " windows usb driver.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
This is the layout and the orange and white coil drive wires exit the loom close to the ignition units plug so as to reduce induced EMF in the other wires. The serial plug also exits the loom there but in the other direction.
I didnt realise the cap needed to be 5K, so I will check that.
I have a different bike with the same Race 2 ignition to try on the dyno tonight, so will get to see how that goes or if there are issues there too, which would suggest a driver problem.
The problem with trying to make any sense of what is happening in the sim, or reality for that matter, with an RZ is that
the Powervalve curve is out to lunch - its fully up way too late and this is what is probably causing the dip.
I havnt done a full stock RZ file for EngMod to look at what is going on.
Send me the pack file in a PM and i will check it out.
Time and again many clever fabricators/designers have built pipes that simply dont work as they should.
Until now we have been stymied,but with the programmable Ignitech having a servo function we can tailor the curve correctly.
I wish I could but the sim was run by someone else, I don't have engmod nor the pack file, that opening up the PV earlier could help was something I also thought about but was looking mostly at the returning + wave being to early here as well...
Stock ypvs controllers are modable btw.
I'll just have to save up and get me engmod myself I guess, would make life a lot easier I think although the head pondering is quit fun as well.
Im not interested in actually doing it - but tell me more about modding a YPVS servo controller please.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
on the back side of the chip there are some connections to ground in groups of 4, open them all up and replace with dip switches and one can change opening and closing and the speed could be set too. Movement (say not 6 mm deep but 7) could be done by adding a resistor to the white black if I'm correct (this changes the total value of the pot in the servo witch does the same thing)
It's a small world, The two stroke world certainly is, and unfortunately getting even smaller. a few kiwi's were dealing with him with regards to the RS parts Buying and selling.I can't remember who it was but i think they liberated a set of Forks?
Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
Omg, I did it, engmod on it's way (big deal for me, money I haven't got to spare but f*ck it )
Next hurdle to get a working rz pack together but that's part of the charme I guess.
Chuffed
Also proposed something along the lines of a engmod user forum for people to share ideas, models and what not and Neels said he's thinking about it and when there is enough interest it might be implemented witch I think would be real beneficial to the users and perhaps even development of the program itself to... who knows)
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Originally Posted by wobbly
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