ESE's works engine tuner

[TZ350]

$80 gets you a self powered counter.
http://www.intech.co.nz/catalogue/do...talogue-nz.pdf

RS will do one as well im sure.

Yes, thanks I will have a dig through the RS catalog.

[speedpro]

Possibly kj8234 from Jaycar, $28.90ea plus a little box to put it in.

[RMS eng]

Yes, thanks I will have a dig through the RS catalog.

I got one for a RS125 Karter from Kevin at Race supplies,if your running Av gas you may be better with a exhaust temp set up.

[TZ350]

Thanks for the tip ...

[F5 Dave]

Just a note of vigilance for the builders of anything fabricated. Remember to leak test. I'm chasing all sorts of holes from crazy areas currently. leak tester has been covered several times. Inlet area is always a favourite.

[TZ350]

Just a note of vigilance for the builders of anything fabricated. Remember to leak test.

We currently don't have a tester and have paid the price on one of the other Team ESE bikes, I am off to SuperCheap/Repco/CarParts place to find a Radiator Tester, actually when you think about it they can't be that hard to make.

Pictures of a commercial and homemade radiator tester.

[F5 Dave]

Just a 3 way gas fitting (in/ gauge/ out) from Paykels -a scrader valve for a bicycle pump is the 'in'.
5psi is enough. Then some blanking plugs for the inlet & exhaust. The inlet for the engine can be into one of these fittings, or a hollowed out sparkplug.

[Ocean1]

Just a 3 way gas fitting (in/ gauge/ out) from Paykels -a scrader valve for a bicycle pump is the 'in'.
5psi is enough. Then some blanking plugs for the inlet & exhaust. The inlet for the engine can be into one of these fittings, or a hollowed out sparkplug.

And bubbles, don't forget the bubbles.

[F5 Dave]

yes indeed, a squirty bottle filled with something bubbly. I haven't moved to liberate the kids bubble mixture, its overkill, just some soapy water is enough.

[wobbly]

The problem with a rad leak tester is that if you have a leak - the thing runs out of psi before you can find where its going.
I use my Oxy bottle, i set the guage to 5 psi and fill the engine - you can then run around with a soapy water brush and test all the seals and gaskets.
When you have fixed any issues, then re pressurise the engine and turn off the bottle valve - the guage shouldn't move for 10mins if all is well.

[dinamik2t]

You can cheaply make your own -trustworthy- tester:



All you need is a pressure gauge of 5~10 psi, a hand rubber 'squeeze' pump (medical store), some carb hose, a Y connector and 2 rubber plugs (chemistry shop) with diameters equal to your exhaust and inlet manifolds respectively.
I found everything on ebay because I was bored, but one can definately search the local market and pay no more than 15$.

[Fooman]

The problem with a rad leak tester is that if you have a leak - the thing runs out of psi before you can find where its going.
I use my Oxy bottle, i set the guage to 5 psi and fill the engine - you can then run around with a soapy water brush and test all the seals and gaskets.
When you have fixed any issues, then re pressurise the engine and turn off the bottle valve - the guage shouldn't move for 10mins if all is well.

Hi Wobbly,

I think that is very poor advice for one particular reason: I would not use pressurised oxygen on anything that is potentially exposed to oil or grease. In 100% oxygen - even at atmospheric pressure - fuels, oils and greases can spontaneously ignite. A blob of grease saturated in oxygen is essentially a blob of high explosive. A colleague of mine once had to investigate a death resulting in the inflation of a tire with oxygen (the oxy bottle was conveniently located) rather than air or nitrogen. The oxygen caused the sealing grease on the bead to ignite/explode, next to the guy who had just made his last mistake.

Air from a compressor? OK. Argon/mix from a MIG/TIG bottle? Better. Oxygen? No way.

Cheers,
FM

[Drew]

Hi Wobbly,

I think that is very poor advice for one particular reason: I would not use pressurised oxygen on anything that is potentially exposed to oil or grease. In 100% oxygen - even at atmospheric pressure - fuels, oils and greases can spontaneously ignite. A blob of grease saturated in oxygen is essentially a blob of high explosive. A colleague of mine once had to investigate a death resulting in the inflation of a tire with oxygen (the oxy bottle was conveniently located) rather than air or nitrogen. The oxygen caused the sealing grease on the bead to ignite/explode, next to the guy who had just made his last mistake.

Air from a compressor? OK. Argon/mix from a MIG/TIG bottle? Better. Oxygen? No way.

Cheers,
FM

Well buggery bollux, good to know.

[Yow Ling]

Use acetylene then you dont have to fuck around with the soapy water , just run your lighter over it

[F5 Dave]

Fooman doesn't show up often but what he writes makes for interesting reading. A mysterious chap who I haven't laid eyes on for many many years despite living about 10 doors away for several years. I think.


I prefer a hand pump (and Jason can shut up for the rude remark he is forming as he reads that) as I can't have a whoopsy & over-pressurise the engine with a dicky regulator or operator error. I used to use 10psi but have been told that is too high & can damage seals &/or cause leaking seals to seal by pressing them harder against the shaft.

Even with 10psi I used to use table leg bungs in the inlet manifold & they would get spat out occasionally with a surprising POP! & flight. I now try to get a convienient piece of Acetal with a groove turned in like a carb.