Been away winning races so will reply now re the deto box.
Calibration is easy, turn it down real low such that the green lights do come on when doing a full throttle run.
Keep turning it up till you get a deto indication somewhere in the powerband, going up on full throttle, or as TeeZee found, when backed off on the overun.
In short - believe what you are seeing, if it shows deto on the overun, then, its got deto in the overun.
This MAY not be an issue when racing as you MAY not damage anything detoing for a short period under these conditions.
But,of course if you have a TPS this means you can use a 3D map, and its easy to pull out a couple of degrees of timing at that point, and the deto will go away - simple.
I found that maximum performance on the dyno meant you had short flickers of deto at nearly all rpm on full throttle,and it lights up when you hit the limiter.
I do several pulls at 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 throttle,running up against the dyno load, as well as running down on the overun. to generate the TPS driven curve shape.
This enables you to dial up the max advance needed everywhere, then go into the software and back the whole curve down 1 to 2 degrees.
Now you have a good curve shape that the engine actually needs, and any issues on track, can then be taken care of by the box switching the retard input to pull out 2* to prevent unforeseen meltdowns.
I havnt used the deto setup on an aircooled, but I suspect that the deto ringing frequency signal is much bigger amplitude than a watercooled cylinder,meaning you get a much quicker indication of deto approaching.
Means its very sensitive to adjustment, but I say again, if it is flashing deto at one rpm and not at another, then believe what you are seeing, just turning it down so it does nothing, is dumb.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
Bookmarks