ESE's works engine tuner

[TZ350]

Those dynos are looking good, things are getting real interesting in F4 & 5 now with all this development work going on.

[dmcca]

I'm glad the discussion has come to dynos... I'm serious about buying one very soon.
For those in the know what do you think of low weight roller eddy current dynos?? I'm looking at a Dynotech (made by dyno dynamics and shares the drivetrain of the 450DS) and it has a hollow, light weight roller and ALL load and acceleration is controlled by the eddy current retarder. It cannot be run in 'inertia' mode but the benefit of the light roller seems to be that it shows up every little glitch in ignition and fueling that a heavy roller would mask.

Thoughts?

[Sketchy_Racer]

I'm glad the discussion has come to dynos... I'm serious about buying one very soon.
For those in the know what do you think of low inertia eddy current dynos?? I'm looking at a Dynotech (made by dyno dynamics and shares the drivetrain of the 450DS) and it has a hollow, light weight roller and ALL load and acceleration is controlled by the eddy current retarder. It cannot be run in 'inertia' mode but the benefit of the light roller seems to be that it shows up every little glitch in ignition and fueling that a heavy roller would mask.

Thoughts?

I dont have a lot of experience with dynos, but my theories are along the lines of this;

Although I like the idea of running an engine at a steady state to test certian RPM, the reality is that in normal operating conditions a motor cycle race engine is never held at fixed RPM. So while it may be great for problem solving, I feel that for optimal tuning it is not so great. What lets the inertia dyno down is that it is only really effective at full throttle, but the data is far more relevant and repeatable which is the most important aspect.

For the dyno Kyle and I are making It is a inertia dyno, but I am going to add a eddy current brake for doing steady state testing but with no data acquisition. I have just started the design for it now, but it will be a home built eddy current brake so we'll see how it goes.

I suppose it comes down to what you want to use it for.

[quallman1234]

Attachment 270755

I must have something wrong on mine, the pickup maybe. I will have another look at it.

Attachment 270754

This is a USB to Serial converter I used with the IgniTec, it seems to work OK.

Gotta watch those USB to serial converters, as the majority use TTL. Which is 5V, where as some equipment requires 15V.
I had to buy a PCMCIA Seiral card for a laptop at work, to get it to work with our electronic locks and also our cnc cropper. Obviously thats big shit but it is something to be aware off.

[Frits Overmars]

I'm looking at a Dynotech and it has a hollow, light weight roller and ALL load and acceleration is controlled by the eddy current retarder. It cannot be run in 'inertia' mode but the benefit of the light roller seems to be that it shows up every little glitch in ignition and fueling that a heavy roller would mask.

It's the other way around. High-inertia rollers do not mask anything. Controlled brakes of any type do, especially the 'advanced' variety with step test facilities.
In a step test the controller tells the dyno to step through the rpm range in 200 rpm steps, for example, and each next step is to be reached in 0,2 seconds, also for example.
Suppose the engine reaches a very weak spot somewhere in its power curve. But it has to move on regardless, at the rate dictated by the controller. If it appears that it won't reach the next step in time, braking torque is reduced, to zero if necessary, and the engine strolls through the entire rev range at a nice even pace.
Put that same engine on an inertia dyno and you can hear it struggle to get out of that weak spot. The carburation may get upset in the processs, the plug may foul, exactly like it would on a track. With a brake dyno you won't find out until you get to the track. And then it may be too late.

[Neal]

Attachment 270747

I have just received another Knock Gauge, this one has two extra outputs. http://www.knockgauge.eu/content/blogcategory/22/41/

YouTube links showing the Knock Gauge in action.

The two green lights, the orange warning light then you see the red det light. http://youtu.be/aZkZR-JBr_E and http://youtu.be/vFoZyw_sHmA

Like last time, one that goes to ground for signaling the IgniTec to retard and a new one that pulses from 0V to +5V each time the Knock Gauge sees a detonation event.

The Curtis event counter can then count the detonations. Now I have the makings of a det sensor, ignition retarder and det counter.



This post links back to various cheap counters that could be used with the Knock Gauge.

How much does a complete set up cost ?

[Yow Ling]

Speaking of dyno's, Kyle and I have almost finished our inertia dyno too, did all the machining last weekend and got the frame together this arvo.

What software you looking at running Yow?

Attachment 270758Attachment 270759

Thats looking flash, better hurry up with mine. I have been looking at Dyno Mite software from performance trends about US$500 for 3 channels drm speed ignition and egt. you can download a copy of the software not crippled for 10 days, looks ok to me . So far im $600 into this so it looks like $1500 will kill it.
What did you use for the roller, mine is a cng cylinder with the mass bolted to the ends

[TZ350]

How much does a complete set up cost ?

Its a bit of a pick and mix so I highlighted the dollar amounts so you can see where the prices come from.

Attachment 269009

703TR002N-512D RS part number 183-5952 $63.50 ... 5-12V and less than 10mA so easily self powered and at 500Hz fast enough to count all deto events as seen by the Knock Gauge or similar, as 200Hz in a 2-Stroke equals 12,000 rpm.

$63.50 NZD for a counter from RS components

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Knock-gauge-...b8220d&vxp=mtr

Knock Gauge $49.99 plus option 1 switch to ground for the IgniTec ignition retard add $20 plus option 3 pulsed 0v to 5V for the counter so add another $20

$90 USD for the Knock Gauge part off Ebay.

Less than $200 NZD should cover it.

[TZ350]

dyno like this?

Small home made inertia dyno. more pictures on the original post.



Engine brake dyno, simple to make and easy to calibrate.



And then there are the Iphone Dyno Apps.

http://www.dtec.net.au/Inertia Dyno Design Guide.htm

http://www.dtec.net.au/Inertia & Brake Dyno (Dynamometer) System - Kart, RC, Bike & Car- Engine & Chassis.htm

Lots of info on bits and bobs suitable for making a small dyno.

Measurement is Everything ... we can only improve what we can measure.

[Sketchy_Racer]

Thats looking flash, better hurry up with mine. I have been looking at Dyno Mite software from performance trends about US$500 for 3 channels drm speed ignition and egt. you can download a copy of the software not crippled for 10 days, looks ok to me . So far im $600 into this so it looks like $1500 will kill it.
What did you use for the roller, mine is a cng cylinder with the mass bolted to the ends

Ours is a solid roller, made from scrap metal. it's 20X 20mm thick 300 diameter steel disks with a 40mm hole bored in them with a shaft through the lot. They have been welded together then machined round. It is certainly not a "pretty" way of doing it but it was free which is what this project is all about I am about $500 into it now and that is including buying a brand new cooling blower ($270) I'm having fun at the moment getting it ballanced up, looks like it is going to be hard. I has a small vibration at around 50KPH drum speed then goes away. It may be as good as it gets with the roller we have. It is not bad though just enough to feel when standing on top of it while doing a run, you can't feel it through the bike.

Kyle is in the process of making some software at the moment to try, to begin with we are only going to be monitoring drum RPM but may build in a ignition RPM sensor later. With my EFI bike the ecu already sends out a graph with RPM over time so I can use that data to calculate the torque curve from the calculated moment of inertia of the drum.

Also i'll get some photos tonight of the way I made the wheel length adjuster, it's simple as and works very easy.

[Yow Ling]

Started assembling it today, looks like its built for Russian Navy , lots of big steel

[Sketchy_Racer]

That is one tough looking dyno! Better put some wheels on it so you can move it! What are the measurements of your drum and flywheels

I spent this arvo balancing mine, pretty happy with it, in theory it needs to be dynamically balanced but I recon I can get it good with the suck and see method, it's probably around 30g out now but not sure where and which side.

[Yow Ling]

I have a shipping container behind the shed was going to put it in there, the big wheels are 400mm OD 80mm thick the cng cylinder is 320 mm OD 10mm wall and the end plugs for the cylinder are 300mm OD 25mm thick 400mm shaft same as yours. The frame is 750 between the rails. All the steel was given to me so not much point in scrimping on that part, ran out of CO2 for my mig so kinda done for the weekend frame wise, maybe tomorrow I go drill some holes in the weights.

Balance wise mine will be a bit of a mess, the disks were the centres for some big gears when they flame cut them they put the start in my bit, I will need to measure the volume of the cut and remove a similar amount from the opposite side, also the cng cylinder isnt as round as it could be

[Ocean1]

That is one tough looking dyno! Better put some wheels on it so you can move it! What are the measurements of your drum and flywheels

I spent this arvo balancing mine, pretty happy with it, in theory it needs to be dynamically balanced but I recon I can get it good with the suck and see method, it's probably around 30g out now but not sure where and which side.

Have you got a shaft in it yet? Only, I'm wondering if you can get it onto a wheel balancing machine...

[Kickaha]

Have you got a shaft in it yet? Only, I'm wondering if you can get it onto a wheel balancing machine...

Unless it's a truck balancer I think it would be to heavy and it's probably to long anyway, you'd also have to make some kind of adapter to be able to bolt it up

You could do a static balance easily enough if you had a couple of v blocks and bearings to suit or even with it in the frame