ESE's works engine tuner

[TZ350]

I am interested in knowing why there is a hot area on the edge of the squish band over the exhaust port. The squish opens up at 3 deg, is this to much?



The piston looks like it has got hotter (same oil and ratio) but the heat mark is not so pronounced on the original copper head and that didn't have any taper in the squish area.



And why is there a shadow (clean area) on the piston next to cylinder wall area between the ports? I would have expected the area in front of the transfer ports to be washed clean from the fresh mixture, not between the ports.

[F5 Dave]

. . .
And why is there a shadow (clean area) on the piston next to cylinder wall area between the ports? I would have expected the area in front of the transfer ports to be washed clean from the fresh mixture, not between the ports.

Because that Naughty pressure hasn't blown down enough pressure so that the symetrical transfer ports flow in one direction. First the hot gasses try to escape out the exhaust & then when more area is presented out the transfers. For a little while at least.

[F5 Dave]

.............

Ps Rob tell the guy who's building it that i am pretty sure the MB50 transmission will go in without too much fuss.....

Don't waste an MB50 g/box on a diesel

[husaberg]

The piston looks like it has got hotter (same oil and ratio) but the heat mark is not so pronounced on the original copper head and that didn't have any taper in the squish area.



And why is there a shadow (clean area) on the piston next to cylinder wall area between the ports? I would have expected the area in front of the transfer ports to be washed clean from the fresh mixture, not between the ports.

I thought you used cast Pro X That piston looks esp Wiseco like with the numbering?

Don't waste an MB50 g/box on a diesel

Oh Dave.... surprised it would worry you, Afterall its only Honda stuff and everyone knows you wouldn't get into bed with the devil would you.

[TZ350]

I thought you used cast Pro X That piston looks esp Wiseco like with the numbering?

We favor Wiseco pistons, the ProX ones we have tried gave problems, one new one even started to crack up after less than 20min on the dyno.

[TZ350]

Because that Naughty pressure hasn't blown down enough

No no, its you who is being naughty. Take another look at the small area next to the bridge between the exhaust and transfer. There is that same clear patch wherever there is some cylinder wall between ports, maybe its just that the piston runs cooler there???

[jasonu]

Don't waste an MB50 g/box on a diesel

They are not much good for anything else.

[F5 Dave]

Some people like to run them in MB100s. I'd run an MB100 before a 4 banger any day (with the manufacturer name ground off the side of course).

[husaberg]

Some people do ride HONDA MB100 i guess.
I can't remember anyone posting this on the thread before.....

[Frits Overmars]

Take another look at the small area next to the bridge between the exhaust and transfer. There is that same clear patch wherever there is some cylinder wall between ports, maybe its just that the piston runs cooler there???

Maybe, even probably. But not certainly. Clear patches on pistons can also be an indication of hot spots. Yeah, those simple two-strokes.....

[cookie1965]

I thought I'd ask the smart people here a question if I may. I've been planning to build a dyno and have been working on design and finding materials. Yesterday I happened across this:



It's an old Heenan Froude water brake. Funny, it's been sitting in my machinists shop the whole time we were talking inertia dyno design ideas and he never mentioned it until yesterday when we were at another shop having one of his race car motors dyno'd lol.

I was wondering if, say money were no object LOL, would I be better off converting this with a modern load cell, sensors and software or should I stick to my original plan of an inertia dyno. Or maybe there's a third option I haven't thought of?
TIA

[Frits Overmars]

My first brake (we're talking 1978) was a Heenan & Froude, same as yours, only a larger version.
The main problem was that its torque absorbtion curve was less steep than the torque curve of a racing two-stroke. So either the engine rpm would be stuck at a point somewhere in the torque dip, or it would shoot right past max. torque rpm, past max. power rpm and even past max. mechanical safe rpm.
A partial solution was to triple the water pressure in the whole system, but stabilizing engine rpm via the brake's handwheel remained a hell of a job.
My advice: stick to your original plan of an inertia dyno.

[wobbly]

Dead right Frits.
All the water brake dynos I have seen that worked well with high output 2Ts needed additional inertia,to enable the operator,or the software
to adjust the valving quick enough to get anything like a consistent load .
Even the best well adjusted PID loop control goes bananas trying to hang onto the rate of change a good 2T produces.

[cookie1965]

Thanks for the input, I've found a manual for it online and now that I better understand how it works I see that automating the sluice gates, as I first thought I'd do, would be near impossible. Oh well, I own it now LOL. Considering I paid 1/10th what one is for sale for now on e-bay maybe it's OK. It sure is cool to look at anyways.

[husaberg]

Thanks for the input, I've found a manual for it online and now that I better understand how it works I see that automating the sluice gates, as I first thought I'd do, would be near impossible. Oh well, I own it now LOL. Considering I paid 1/10th what one is for sale for now on e-bay maybe it's OK. It sure is cool to look at anyways.

I have an article somewhere i will post it tonight about converting a water dyno to computer controled somewhere it is out of FB (so unfortunatly it is a bit long winded and full of bad jokes etc.) i guess you should cope?