ESE's works engine tuner

[2T Institute]

Why do you use ES style plugs?

[wobbly]

Is this still running AvGas??
For Av its a bit rich, for Unleaded its a bit lean.
The plug heat range appears good, and the mixture is on the rich side of correct for Av, but here is the kicker - how many times have I said
YOU MUST RUN A RESISTOR PLUG AND CAP.
Would not be surprised at all if the deto noise was caused by an ignition misfire due to RF affecting the ECU.

[TZ350]

Why do you use ES style plugs?

What does ES mean? These were 70 plugs for $50USD of Ebay.

Is this still running AvGas??
For Av its a bit rich, for Unleaded its a bit lean.
The plug heat range appears good, and the mixture is on the rich side of correct for Av, but here is the kicker - how many times have I said
YOU MUST RUN A RESISTOR PLUG AND CAP.
Would not be surprised at all if the deto noise was caused by an ignition misfire due to RF affecting the ECU.

Thanks Wob, yes Av Gas and at Taumarunui I kept going up in jets from 135 best power on the dyno to 162 to try and get rid of the over rev deto.

5K cap, I will get some resistor plugs and try them for over rev deto before I do anything else tuning wise.

[2T Institute]

Attachment 276053 Attachment 276054
What does ES mean?

The ones with the big fat J strap and centre electrode. NGK numbering would likely to be B9ES on that plug. It's a wonder you haven't had lead fouling with avgas. Iridium option would be BR9EIX. Swapping to a proper race plug is worth it(R7278-10)

[wobbly]

ES means Extreme Scrimping.

Weld a threaded alloy bung onto the head ( you could even machine a couple of fins into it ) to enable use of 3/4 reach race plugs, and use the one I gave you.
Much easier to read both ignition and fuel and is worth an easy Hp or two over shitter plugs.

[2T Institute]

ES means Extreme Scrimping.

Weld a threaded alloy bung onto the head ( you could even machine a couple of fins into it ) to enable use of 3/4 reach race plugs, and use the one I gave you.
Much easier to read both ignition and fuel and is worth an easy Hp or two over shitter plugs.

Extreme Shitters? What you will also notice is the run to the first corner is a bit faster as well.

[TZ350]

OK, As there are six 2T bikes in the team to feed, I needed to make a bargain bulk buy. I now have 60 of Nippon Denso's equivalent to NGK's BR10EIX plugs (or so the seller says) on their way from Ebay, less than $3 USD each after shipping. Plus 10 NGK 5K plug caps $12 USD each after shipping, shipping was a bit of a trap so not such a bargin there.

These bikes had better like those plugs and caps ......

[wobbly]

Yea shipping from Merica is a trap - just remember that a USPS small prepaid Intl box is 16usd, this would easily take 12 caps,or a rotor and stator etc.
Some shippers have tried to charge me 45usd for this - wrong answer.

[TZ350]

I could not find the Nippon Denso W31ES-G listed after a bit of research, but the W31ES-U was listed as a close equivalent to the NGK BR10EIX so I will just have to wait and see what we get. I will keep looking for some NGK B10 resistor plugs that don't cost an arm and leg.

[dinamik2t]

You should search for the R6254K-105 plugs from Kawasaki's KX 80 85 100 125. They are quite cheap for racing spark plugs.

edit:
Wob, would you have any of those exhaust flange step/transition tests on a dyno sheet??

[F5 Dave]

ok changing the topic as I think this has run its course (again).

Ring seal. I've never had much drama from other engines that have passed through my grubby hands. Nickisil is easy & even the iron bores have just been a case of fire in a new ring with a bit of a hone if yer lucky, spend practice, on throttle, off throttle & then first race just got for it. Or a few times through the gears on the dyno.

But using the KT piston in the MB has me scratching my head a bit. I've had a few running problems, some attributable to ign as it turns out, but when I went the next size up from 0.05 to 0.1 the bore had to be honed quite a bit to make it round again. Then it picked up & honed round again. But have ended up with ~3thou & that seems ok. Also it was having patched polished like it had worn the hone away. Maybe the KT piston has to run a little loose for how hot its getting.

So its run about a full meeting (over two meetings) & a couple of dyno sessions. Its going ok, but not fantastically. As I've had these issues with bore polishing I measured the ring seal (yet to build my own tool so got to use a real one). Apparently KTs run about 10% leakage (I suspect do to the large ring gap) on this gauge.

Mine was 36%. Ouch. A little further down from top it was slightly worse.


So plan of attack now is a new ring of another brand (TK? instead of Yam), light hone & run it on Castrol R30 at like 16:1 & see if I can get that leakage better.

Mike doesn't seem to have had the same issues. So why have I?

[Grumph]

ok changing the topic as I think this has run its course (again).

Ring seal. I've never had much drama from other engines that have passed through my grubby hands. Nickisil is easy & even the iron bores have just been a case of fire in a new ring with a bit of a hone if yer lucky, spend practice, on throttle, off throttle & then first race just got for it. Or a few times through the gears on the dyno.

But using the KT piston in the MB has me scratching my head a bit. I've had a few running problems, some attributable to ign as it turns out, but when I went the next size up from 0.05 to 0.1 the bore had to be honed quite a bit to make it round again. Then it picked up & honed round again. But have ended up with ~3thou & that seems ok. Also it was having patched polished like it had worn the hone away. Maybe the KT piston has to run a little loose for how hot its getting.

So its run about a full meeting (over two meetings) & a couple of dyno sessions. Its going ok, but not fantastically. As I've had these issues with bore polishing I measured the ring seal (yet to build my own tool so got to use a real one). Apparently KTs run about 10% leakage (I suspect do to the large ring gap) on this gauge.

Mine was 36%. Ouch. A little further down from top it was slightly worse.


So plan of attack now is a new ring of another brand (TK? instead of Yam), light hone & run it on Castrol R30 at like 16:1 & see if I can get that leakage better.

Mike doesn't seem to have had the same issues. So why have I?

I'm told there are KT pistons and then there are KT pistons.....apparently there are a shitload of brands available but some are rubbish.

I'd hope Wob will have a definitive recommendation for you.

[F5 Dave]

yeah I was using std Yam ones. Strike ones are apparently good but they start in larger oversizes I can't really use.

[tdc211]

[QUOTE=Bert;1130459460]Please tell us a little more. is that a big bore kitted CR85?

Maybe even a port map / listed durations might be interesting for some of us.

Nice work though ~300hp per litre.



I would like to share it, but this was a very long project. I do not think a Honda CR 85 would be a good choice as it has no power valve. I did mess with port timings/areas all over the place ,1 degree at a time on some timings and more heads/ign timing than I can remember. Compression is really not that high.

[bucketracer]

This plug reading stuff is very interesting I have always wondered how it was done. Cutting open a plug each time looks like a real dedicated way of doing it.

This is what we are looking for, the area above the black line,

NGK B9 Plug

The spark plug - why are you running a 9 in a Super Hot air cooled engine that is always going to be running up against the fins thermal ability to reject heat fast enough.

That is the reason there is no distinct burn line on the porcelain - as ALL of the porcelain is running too hot for an oil zone to form, and give you a reading.

I would be fitting a 10.5 - this is what the 28 Hp, 22,000 rpm 100cc air cooled kart engines HAVE to run or they seize instantly.

The end of the earth electrode is blasted clean - that is heat induced deto, or as I said at the beginning, maybe this is causing pre - ignition.

NGK B10 Plug

For Av its a bit rich, for Unleaded its a bit lean. The plug heat range appears good, and the mixture is on the rich side of correct for Av

I know (because I asked) the B9 and B10 plugs were new and fitted into a hot (up to temperature) 2T engine after practice and plug chopped at the end of one race each so there is not much running time on them.

Is it because the ones below are 4T that there is no (oil ???) stain on the nose of the porcelain like you see on TeeZees plugs.

http://www.wallaceracing.com/plug-reading-lm.html