ESE's works engine tuner

[TZ350]

Bucket, I think they are out of a drag racer and don't get enough time in one run to colour up.

Here is a good bit on detonation from your link. http://www.wallaceracing.com/plug-reading-lm.html

"" Preignition/Detonation
Porcelain = the porcelain shows up preignition/detonation, it will not accurately reveal jetting/air/fuel ratios. To look for the first/beginning signs of detonation, search the white porcelain for tiny black specks or shiny specks of aluminum that have fused to the porcelain. When detonation occurs, part of the air/fuel mixture explodes instead of burning, the explosion is heard as a "metallic knock", this audible knock is the result of a sound shock-wave, this shock wave travels back and forth across the clearance volume "disrupting" the cooler boundary layer gases that cover the entire clearance volume area. This disruption allows "more" heat to be transferred into parts, especially, domes/piston tops,...along with the very rapid rise in pressure like a hammer blow, pistons can get torched with melted sides and holes !!! With the early signs of detonation, the shock-wave will also rattle rings causing the tiny amounts of oil that now gets by rings, to be fused to the white porcelain as tiny black specks, also fused as specks are soot that was clinging to clearance volume surfaces in the relatively "still-air" of the boundary layer. One step beyond the black specks, will be tiny specks/balls of aluminum coming off the pistons that will be fused to white porcelin,....the next step to be reached is occasional pieces of the porcelain being broken-off as detonation gets worse, ETC. Soon after that are holes, blown head gaskets, broken connecting rods, ETC.
NOTE: additional signs of beginning detonation are piston rings. By comparing ring's "free-diameter" to "out-of-box" free-diameters of new unused rings will reveals beginnings of detonation before much harm is caused !!! This is a result of the above previous explanation about heat being transferred more readily because the of the relatively insulating/cooler boundary layer being disrupted by the shock-wave. A piston ring is a simple spring, when a spring is over-heated it will loose tension.
Center Electrode = the very tiny sharply defined porcelain - "ditch" that encircles the center electrode, will also show up early signs of preignition/detonation and the wrong heat-range. Look for signs of the ditch beginning to be filled up with melted porcelain, you will need a 5x or 10x magnifying glass. ""

[2T Institute]

I could not find the Nippon Denso W31ES-G listed after a bit of research, but the W31ES-U was listed as a close equivalent to the NGK BR10EIX so I will just have to wait and see what we get. I will keep looking for some NGK B10 resistor plugs that don't cost an arm and leg.

Thats wrong Denso W plugs are ES style plugs, Denso Irridiums are IW-29/31/32 should be available from any Toyota dealer (if you want to get ripped off ) and much cheaper online. Denso race plug is IW01-29/31/32 there are $20 appearing on Amazon last lot we got were $34 landed. BARGAIN.

[2T Institute]

ok changing the topic as I think this has run its course (again).

Ring seal. I've never had much drama from other engines that have passed through my grubby hands. Nickisil is easy & even the iron bores have just been a case of fire in a new ring with a bit of a hone if yer lucky, spend practice, on throttle, off throttle & then first race just got for it. Or a few times through the gears on the dyno.

But using the KT piston in the MB has me scratching my head a bit. I've had a few running problems, some attributable to ign as it turns out, but when I went the next size up from 0.05 to 0.1 the bore had to be honed quite a bit to make it round again. Then it picked up & honed round again. But have ended up with ~3thou & that seems ok. Also it was having patched polished like it had worn the hone away. Maybe the KT piston has to run a little loose for how hot its getting.

So its run about a full meeting (over two meetings) & a couple of dyno sessions. Its going ok, but not fantastically. As I've had these issues with bore polishing I measured the ring seal (yet to build my own tool so got to use a real one). Apparently KTs run about 10% leakage (I suspect do to the large ring gap) on this gauge.

Mine was 36%. Ouch. A little further down from top it was slightly worse.


So plan of attack now is a new ring of another brand (TK? instead of Yam), light hone & run it on Castrol R30 at like 16:1 & see if I can get that leakage better.

Mike doesn't seem to have had the same issues. So why have I?

Are you using a S or a J piston? I ran KSI brand for a few years with no issues. I used to get a kart engine fellow who specialised in the KT motors to do the size and hone.Keeping the bore walls 100% straight is important. I tried to align stars with the hone/piston running a thou and a half clearence slightly rich at a tight twisty track, up to 2 and a half to 3 thou at the fast open track jetted to 1100-1150deg F on the straight. Depened how the meetings were scheduled, but after the third meeting was a hone and a piston again. If I had a 2 short track or 2 long I would get a Strike piston with a 0.01mm step to maintain those clearences. I always ran castor/synthetic at 18:1 in my H100, the only issues I can remember with that engine was with the balance shaft in and high rpm the LH(the big one) would last 1 or 2 meetings and a few people ran the CR hub with no cush drive which caused gearbox problems.

[TZ350]

Thats wrong Denso W plugs are ES style plugs,

Thanks ........ Ohooo well .... it looks like the plugs I have coming are something else to add to the pile of interesting but useless stuff in the shed .... but the good news is I get to go shopping Ebay again .....

[speedpro]

Are you using a S or a J piston? I ran KSI brand for a few years with no issues. I used to get a kart engine fellow who specialised in the KT motors to do the size and hone.Keeping the bore walls 100% straight is important. I tried to align stars with the hone/piston running a thou and a half clearence slightly rich at a tight twisty track, up to 2 and a half to 3 thou at the fast open track jetted to 1100-1150deg F on the straight. Depened how the meetings were scheduled, but after the third meeting was a hone and a piston again. If I had a 2 short track or 2 long I would get a Strike piston with a 0.01mm step to maintain those clearences. I always ran castor/synthetic at 18:1 in my H100, the only issues I can remember with that engine was with the balance shaft in and high rpm the LH(the big one) would last 1 or 2 meetings and a few people ran the CR hub with no cush drive which caused gearbox problems.

I get the kart shop mechanic to hone and size my cylinders as well. He's fanatical. I figure he knows what to do to make KT pistons last. For the same reason I run ELF HTX909 at about the ratio they suggested, plus Wobbly said it was good shit. After the previous piston, a hone to straighten everything up meant the clearance was 1.9 thou with the same size piston. Possibly a smidge loose for a kart track as you said but OK. I'm running genuine Yamaha KT pistons though that might change if I get tempted to run the rings that have a Titanium Nitrate hard coat on the wear face. The ones the kart shop have are for another brand of piston. They reckon no running in is required.

[TZ350]

For anyone interested, this is a list of best times for all bikes from a TRRS. The Bikes/riders are listed in time order fastest to slowest and its instructive to see so many Moto4 Bikes (F4 Buckets) up amoungst much bigger bikes.



The fastest Bike/Rider combo in Form.4 I can see is F5Dave on a KV100, then Richard Deller and Rick52.

[F5 Dave]

Much as I'd like to own up to that I think that year the timing was pants & a sw anomaly got a first incomplete lap or something.

[F5 Dave]

Are you using a S or a J piston? I ran KSI brand for a few years with no issues. I used to get a kart engine fellow who specialised in the KT motors to do the size and hone.Keeping the bore walls 100% straight is important. I tried to align stars with the hone/piston running a thou and a half clearence slightly rich at a tight twisty track, up to 2 and a half to 3 thou at the fast open track jetted to 1100-1150deg F on the straight. Depened how the meetings were scheduled, but after the third meeting was a hone and a piston again. If I had a 2 short track or 2 long I would get a Strike piston with a 0.01mm step to maintain those clearences. I always ran castor/synthetic at 18:1 in my H100, the only issues I can remember with that engine was with the balance shaft in and high rpm the LH(the big one) would last 1 or 2 meetings and a few people ran the CR hub with no cush drive which caused gearbox problems.

Thanks, the S (the J is about 6" tall). The polished bits were surprising.

[husaberg]

Much as I'd like to own up to that I think that year the timing was pants & a sw anomaly got a first incomplete lap or something.

So is the (Presumably) Koba time of the RG150 accurate at 1:19.........

[F5 Dave]

Just ahead of Vicki on the 749, yeah that would have pissed her off. but not too likely, - handy rider that he is not withstanding.

The other alternative is that we are both Oarsome.

[husaberg]

[Moooools]

That is very cool.
Depemnding on whether or not i can get sponsorship I am planning to investment(lost wax) cast a couple of throttle bodies this year for FSAE. However the plan is to get the wax rapid prototyped . Which means pretty well no limitations on geometry and fantastic surface finish. Not perfectly dimensionally stable but a very cool process.
It could be interesting for making your own barrels. With a bigger block of wax it would be a bit more dimensionally stable. You could do a barrel where the only finishing work was to machine the top and bottom surfaces and bore it out and nikasil it. Making the CAD file would probably be the hardest bit. I hate to think what it would cost though.

[koba]

So is the (Presumably) Koba time of the RG150 accurate at 1:19.........

Just ahead of Vicki on the 749, yeah that would have pissed her off. but not too likely, - handy rider that he is not withstanding.

The other alternative is that we are both Oarsome.

2 things going on there, is that one even when we ran short track and other classes long?
We did run the sort track but can't remember what they did.
1:19 does sound too fast for a 749 on the fast track though...
Yeah that other thing was the timing was up the shit; Paddy, Jason Cameron and I were all quite close that year but the timing has us miles apart.

Oh there is a 3rd thing, I'm just that awesome that my SS150 time puts me something like 6th in F3 and not last in F2; I Think not!

Edit: I do remember giggling about all that at the time, I gave Vicky shit then; maybe it's time for a reminder...

[koba]

Another question,

What type of muffler is best?

I've been building a pipe, including a muffler that doesn't weigh 3kg.
I've made an aluminium body and some end caps but the hot glue gun ran out of gas before I could finish the thing.

I was having trouble deciding what guts to put in it.
I'm sure the top one in the pic will be plenty quiet enough but I'm tempted by the weigh savings of the middle picture type.
Maybe I could also build something like the lower pic?

I'd bee keen to hear other thoughts.

[Grumph]

Another question,

What type of muffler is best?

I've been building a pipe, including a muffler that doesn't weigh 3kg.
I've made an aluminium body and some end caps but the hot glue gun ran out of gas before I could finish the thing.

I was having trouble deciding what guts to put in it.
I'm sure the top one in the pic will be plenty quiet enough but I'm tempted by the weigh savings of the middle picture type.
Maybe I could also build something like the lower pic?

I'd bee keen to hear other thoughts.

Just stick to what works...the top one.

High frequency vibration and normal loss of packing material will soon enough give you one of the others and you'll find out quickly how bad they are.....