ESE's works engine tuner

[Farmaken]

Thats pretty good, I have ordered one of the mini angle grinders you put me onto, thanks.

Cheers TZ, thanks for doing it first and letting us follow

Grinder is great, TZ will have to do the linky thing - I am still a computer retard

[husaberg]

Cheers TZ, thanks for doing it first and letting us follow

Grinder is great, TZ will have to do the linky thing - I am still a computer retard

http://sharkshifter.com/zc/index.php...ort=20a&page=3
above is a random link not the TZ one

depending on your set up you may need to remove an extra http://

this triple port seems to be a great idea mmmmmm.......I wonder if it will catch on..................Maybe next week.

[TZ350]

Farmaken put me onto this.



Sioux model 5977 1/8" collet right angle precision pencil die grinder from Progressive tools - www.e-progressivetools.com E-mail jsgilbert1@msn.com ph. 336 933 9830 fax 336 993 9840

also

http://www.use-enco.com/1/3/pneumatic-pencil-grinder

also

http://www.browntool.com

[wobbly]

The only problem with the Sioux is its head is too big to fit a 50mm bore with a cutter installed.

The best tool for the job is this, though more expensive initially its the only way to get the job done.

http://ccspecialtytool.com/182a-mc-s...dpiece-adapter.

The other issue is that even the 182 tool will not allow you to fit counter rotating burrs, by fitting them backwards into the head.

The only one that does this is the 1MC head, means you can rub the bur in both directions across the port roof to get equal cutting action on both sides of the cylinder.

http://ccspecialtytool.com/1mc-right-angle-handpiece

The 182 works fine in both directions with fine diamond cutters, or cotton polishing mops, but for hogging out tripple ports etc the 1MC is the best.

Whatever you decide you have to settle on 1/8 or 3mm cutters and stick with that for everything or buy expensive collets and change all the time - a butt pain, I know.

[Bert]

Here's something to have a giggle about (GPR thread):

Huummmm Interesting.

now that the GPR DYNO is up and running it was time to test the GPR100 (TZR).
At Minefield the other weekend it was noticeable that the power dropped off during the mid range.
However none of us expected it to be as interesting as this.

Some work to do.....
Dyno plot is 6000 - 12000


The ignition curve and servo opening are attached.
So we leaned it off by dropping the needle (which slightly improved things); but me thinks ignition and servo adjustments may be required.

Specs:
TZR100, 95-RS125 pipe, Exhaust duration = 198, Inlets = 123, comp 13.2:1, crankcase volume ratio 1.55.

[Haufen]

It could be your powervalve opening too early. Doing a couple of dyno runs in fully open and fully closed position will show how much can be gained from the powervalve.

[wobbly]

Lots is wrong - running 500mV Hysteresis means the valve can be almost anywhere and the servo loop will not correct it.
Change to 100mV.
The PV is fully open at 9500, way too early in my opinion, as at 1/2 position the valve is almost useless due to leakage.
As detailed before, do a run with the valve fully down,one held open, and one at 1/2 height.
Then interpolate the positions for max power.
I would guess you will see the hole disappear with the valve fully down - as long as its not down too far.
Also the PV servo works way faster if there is only one or two points along the opening ramp, having more does nothing but slow it down.

The ignition curve is wrong as well.
The hole is at 10,000 with nowhere near enough advance for an engine making bugger all power.

Good thing is that you can do all the various tests of PV position and Ignition advance while sitting on the bike - on the dyno - and reprogram whilst its still running.
You can do every position and ignition combination in an hour, as long as the fan keeps the thing cool enough for consistent tests.

[kel]

[QUOTE=Bert;1130489544]Here's something to have a giggle about (GPR thread):[QUOTE]

22hp. More of a yawn than a giggle
But seriously, as Wobbly has outlined that dip should be fairly easy to resolve. Look forward to seeing the results.
So another bucket racer home built dyno is up and running, fantastic stuff

[F5 Dave]

[QUOTE=kel;1130489697][QUOTE=Bert;1130489544]Here's something to have a giggle about (GPR thread):

22hp. More of a yawn than a giggle
But seriously, as Wobbly has outlined that dip should be fairly easy to resolve. Look forward to seeing the results.
So another bucket racer home built dyno is up and running, fantastic stuff

When I rode it it felt seriously low revving & not that fast - looking at the curve I think I was believing the lightweight tacho & changing up before the real power kicked in (Gee I'm a nice guy with other people's bikes). A shame as the chassis has more potential than my NF4 I am sure. With some moved controls, the dip gone & (most important) a 2 tooth smaller front sprocket, I could win local races on this.

[crazy man]

[QUOTE=F5 Dave;1130489786][QUOTE=kel;1130489697]

Here's something to have a giggle about (GPR thread):

When I rode it it felt seriously low revving & not that fast - looking at the curve I think I was believing the lightweight tacho & changing up before the real power kicked in (Gee I'm a nice guy with other people's bikes). A shame as the chassis has more potential than my NF4 I am sure. With some moved controls, the dip gone & (most important) a 2 tooth smaller front sprocket, I could win local races on this.

going of the graft that every time you change gears it would drop down in hp so much that it took a long time to pull out of it , and it was geared for manfeild lol but like wobbly said it should not take to long to make it some what right

[TZ350]

Now there is another dyno out there competition is really hotting up, great stuff.

[F5 Dave]

Two weeks till next Kaitoke. I'll bet it has the same gearing on it. Here I'll even look up the JT pn pre 93 JTF1263, post 93 JTF558, sure there will be smaller options.

[crazy man]

Two weeks till next Kaitoke. I'll bet it has the same gearing on it. Here I'll even look up the JT pn pre 93 JTF1263, post 93 JTF558, sure there will be smaller options.

do you want a bet

[Bert]

Lots is wrong - running 500mV Hysteresis means the valve can be almost anywhere and the servo loop will not correct it.
Change to 100mV.
The PV is fully open at 9500, way too early in my opinion, as at 1/2 position the valve is almost useless due to leakage.
As detailed before, do a run with the valve fully down,one held open, and one at 1/2 height.
Then interpolate the positions for max power.
I would guess you will see the hole disappear with the valve fully down - as long as its not down too far.
Also the PV servo works way faster if there is only one or two points along the opening ramp, having more does nothing but slow it down.

The ignition curve is wrong as well.
The hole is at 10,000 with nowhere near enough advance for an engine making bugger all power.

Good thing is that you can do all the various tests of PV position and Ignition advance while sitting on the bike - on the dyno - and reprogram whilst its still running.
You can do every position and ignition combination in an hour, as long as the fan keeps the thing cool enough for consistent tests.

Thanks Wobs (and others; just not Kel)
Some really useful info here; I'm looking forward to Saturday testing (and remembering to take my laptop)...
Didn't even think about the number of points effecting the servo response, now that you have said it the lights gone on. I might also recheck the base advance.

Anyway despite Kel making fun of me, I'll post up the next lot of results.

And yes blood good of crazyman to let me loose on his new fully working dyno


Just kidding Kel.

[TZ350]

... there was some testing with methanol/nitromethane. I had some problems with the fuel not atomizing correctly so if I ever is going to try it again it would be with EFI. 60%methanol, 35%nitromethane, 5%oil and 90%nitromethane, 5%acetone, 5%oil

If its lean when running Methanol, I am not sure EFI will help.

Back in the day I ran an air cooled Suzuki TR250R on Juice. At 100% Methanol it ran to cold to vaporise all the fuel and consequently ran lean. Increasing the main jet did nothing and in the end there was raw fuel being blown out the exhaust pipes, other riders complained.

The trick was to blend the Methanol with Acetone until the latent heat of evaporation of the fuel blend left enough heat in the engine to evaporate all of the fuel properly.

Acetone has a latent heat of evaporation midway between Methanol and Petrol. Acetone has an Octane rating higher than Methanol and like Methanol, Acetone likes to be run rich.

Acetone is a good fuel and can be run on its own but check how your crank seals cope with it first, soak them in it to see if anything happens to them, Yamaha RD seals with the Teflon lips swell up and create air leaks, Suzuki ones seem OK.

In the end I found a 50/50 mix of Acetone and Methanol (20:1 Castrol R) worked well in the Suzuki but different engines require different ratios and the RD liked 100% Acetone. An air cooled Speedway engine I worked on had TZ750 barrels with big holes cut in the water jackets for cooling air to blow through, it liked a 100% Methanol.

You just have to experiment to find what an engine needs. It’s a balancing act between maximum chilling of the incoming air and enough engine warmth left to vaporise all of the fuel.

You could find that with EFI you can keep firing in ever more Methanol like I did with bigger and bigger main jets but if the engine is running to cold to vaporise it all, you will still be lean.