Interesting as my TF125 doesn't seem too bad even when I 'over rev' it (9000+ I guess). Until I get the RM80 flywheel on it I don't really want to be revving that high.Originally Posted by TZ350
Anyone got a RM80 CDI?
Registered User
Interesting as my TF125 doesn't seem too bad even when I 'over rev' it (9000+ I guess). Until I get the RM80 flywheel on it I don't really want to be revving that high.
Anyone got a RM80 CDI?
Forum whore
That is interesting, wonder what frames the vibratey ones were fitted to? What frame do/did you have your TF engine in Skunk?
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Registered User
It's in my AX100. Had it's first run last weekend. I've mounted it by all three points. There's a reasonable pic of the frame here with the engine in it.
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Maybe. There is one year RM that reputably revs better than all others. I have never gotten around to trying it.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Forum whore
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Are you talking crank or ignition F5? do you know what Year?
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Forum whore
I asked because this is what Phill Irving has to say:- " p110 when adapting engines for use in 500cc racing cars, because the different method of mounting as compared to a motorcycle very often leads to trouble in obtaining smooth running.
and p107 it is quite useless to postulate any particular balance factor as being ideal; so many considerations enter into the matter that it varies with almost every design of engine, or even the type of frame in which engines of the same kind are mounted."
So your TF125 and AX100 frame combined OK, where other types of TF Engine/Frame combo hav'nt.
Good looking pic of you at Slipway, Skunk.
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No8 Wire Extraordinaire
sorry it was one year the RM used the flatslide 26.
83-85 for ignitions
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Forum whore
These Posts started 17th June on Page 70.
(2) Describe how to find the reciprocating weight.
Looking at the connecting rod it is easy to see that the Big End goes round and round and is all rotating mass. And the little end goes up and down and is all reciprocating mass.
But the bit in the middle is not completely either, it does a sort of wiggley motion. You can worry your self to death over it or just take a good old practical common sense approach.
Pic-1 shows the crankshaft divided into "Rotating Mass" on the left and "Reciprocating Mass (weight)" on the right.
Pic-2 shows the Reciprocating Mass (B) being weighed. When weighing its important that the conrod is level and only the little end touches the scales.
Pic-3 On these cranks its easy to see the counterbalance’s but in others you just have to imagine where they are as the can't be distinguished from the rotating mass.
The Rotating Mass within (A) naturally balances itself and is not involved in the crankshaft balancing process.
External items like Magneto Rotors, Generator Flywheels and in Cars Harmonic Ballancers/Flywheels/Clutches are fitted and ballanced after the crankshaft itself has been balanced. The crank is balanced first then the other round bits are fitted and balanced later.
In balancing the crankshaft there is only "Reciprocating Mass", "Counter Balance" and the "Balance Factor" which is the relationship between them.
Let:- "Counter Balance" = A "Reciprocating Mass" = B and "Balance Factor" = C
Then A = B X C .............now this is a real formula complete with a definition of terms.
This formula gives you the Mass (weight) of the Counter Balance if you know the Reciprocating Mass and the Balance Factor you want to use.
This is not new, Speedpro has allready posted hand drawn pictures like this, showing how he did it.
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Forum whore
he only uses two fingers
so now he is down to just one
"Instructions are just the manufacturers opinion on how to install it" Tim Taylor of "Tool Time"
Saying what we think gives us a wider conversational range than saying what we know. - Cullen Hightower
Forum whore
Any more cheek and I will stick my finger in your ear.he only uses two fingers
so now he is down to just one
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gypsy
tried that with darts.....ONCE.... not allowed back in that bar any more....
Personaly, I close my eyes.
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but this is a great thread..thanks!
what a ride so far!!!!
Hardcore Biker
I'm quite keen on any info on rg50 tuning. I have a 1978 gt50 (cafe project) which I'm trying to tune but keep reliable for road use any starting points?
Does anyone know the difference between the two, other than ones 5 speed and the others a 6 speed?
Oh and if any one has spare rg50 forks and front brake caliper assembly I'd be keen to talk.
Registered User
We did run the bike with the front mount loose. It had a bolt but only finger tight. One minute and I think your thumbs would be numb from vibration. Do the bolt up tight and all is well.
76° works for Vee twins due to the Vee angles. 90° works for parallel twins. I guess it's all part of 'the angle of the cylinder affects the balance factor that works best' though the maths of it is beyond me.
I can tell that as a Vee the forces on the crank are quite different to a parallel of the same firing duration just by looking at it.
Forum whore
We have found that the thinner GP125 forks fit in the RG's triple clamps. Then you can use the caliper, disk wheel etc.
We also have found that its possible to fit the early 2.15X17F 2.5X17R TZR wheels with very little effort. PM me if you want details. A little bit of milling on the side of the wheels, a little turning of the sprocket carrior and filing of the axle slots in the swing arm is about it.
Engine mods, well F5 has the fastest one around that I know of. Pete Sales???? I think, is the guru if you have a few $$$ to spend.
Good luck, I hope to have one going myself for Taupo.
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Bucket Racer/Crasher
That is exactly how I did it.
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