ESE's works engine tuner

[Flettner]

I run an ignitec, fires ethanol under high comp no problem. In fact the unit has been trouble free, not even fouled a single plug in two years of tuning on ethanol. Only problem I did find is if you use the coils Wobbly supplies just check that they are not open circuit before you use them, although I would say he puts the meter over them now before they are sent out.
Super adjustability, great for engines that are a little bit different. Cost effective too.
I'll be trying one of the Ignijet ( EFI and CDI all in one box ) units shortly, can't wait!
Pictures of the Saturday Epic Events trail ride, only EFI twostroke entered, imagine that.
A lot of modern fourstroke bikes lying on the side of the track? F9 never stopped once, this bike is a lot of fun to ride!

[F5 Dave]

The thing that got me was a newbie mistake. I didn't have the "Programming after Change" box ticked so any changes I made were on the screen & not pushed through to the box, unlike the old Zeel programmer I have where you can change on the fly but have to save at the end, the Ignitech you have the choice, but you have to be aware of it.

really the documentation is pants, but as you said, is obvious once you've shagged around.

h


For a single with only one coil and pickup and firing once a revolution the setup needs to be changed.

Attachment 283912

Hmm, I've just got mine set to Classic, so do I need to set up in special as a single, or just leave the input open never getting a signal?


I'm struggling to get a Baseline sorted. It looks stable spinning the back wheel by hand but adjusting the baseline on the PC doesn't seem to change the position. I've even taken the rotor off & moved it as it seemed to be out of range, even though I have the same setup as Mike's MB (& have to remark 15deg).


PS mine is the P2.

[wobbly]

You cant leave the " input open never getting a signal ", the P2 will always fire both CDI with a single pickup when in classic mode.
The unused CDI will eventually die if it is run continuously without a coil connected.
Thats why I gave everyone the info on turning off the second cdi in the software.
Even easyer is to simply leave the ecu as its programmed, and parallel the cdi outputs into one coil.
That way you get twice the spark energy at the plug, as Niel has used forever on his F9 injection Ethanol burner.
The arc over voltage is the same but depending upon the inductance of the coil you will get up to 4 times the burn time of the arc as the caps discharge into the ionised gap.

As you say you can run program after change, but I prefer to do all the changes, check them,save the file with a new name, THEN program the box and finally hit " verify ".
This does a checksum, to confirm whats in the ecu matches the screen.

[F5 Dave]

Thanks, have been saving some files, but just at the start to try get some sparks happening (other than the test fire button which was a great releif).

erm, to be fair you didn't give me any info with the box. If you have some other tips I'd be keen as I'm still trying to sort out stuff, mainly the base advance.

[F5 Dave]

You cant leave the " input open never getting a signal ", the P2 will always fire both CDI with a single pickup when in classic mode.
The unused CDI will eventually die if it is run continuously without a coil connected.
Thats why I gave everyone the info on turning off the second cdi in the software.
Even easyer is to simply leave the ecu as its programmed, and parallel the cdi outputs into one coil.

So connect both outputs. What about the other input wire?

[F5 Dave]

. . .
Again I say for the 1000th time - YOU MUST USE A RESISTOR PLUG AND CAP.
Nearly every day I get to fix these bloody things playing up simply due to this rule being ignored.

My short reach plug don't have resistor but I have a WC head with an extender welded on so I can run one, but not this weekend. Fortunately the CDI is located under the seat so it has some separation. I'll find the highest resistence cap I have until then.

. . .

The other thing that can cause problems is keeping the coil drive wire away from TPS and power wiring,if not done you get false input triggering that makes the rpm as seen by the ECU double
or treble in value - it then invokes the rpm limiter and suddenly we have a " misfire " at 4000 rpm that shows as 12,000 on the screen.
But alot of this can be "seen " on the screen when the engine is running and is easy to diagnose.

The wires all are close for about a foot of the wire loom, but then branch out to the coil which is a ways from everything. Is that adequate.

Thanks for the help. I'm short on time till this sunday's race. Mines the P2, not P2 race.

[wobbly]

Easy for anyone to go online to Ignitech and read the manual, but to be fair also they dont, and should, have in big red capitals a line saying
" IF YOU DONT USE A RESISTOR PLUG AND CAP IT WILL SHIT ITS PANTS ".
P2 or Race - or any electronic ECU system needs RF suppression - all TZ and RS race engines have them from the factory.

All plugs including short reach are available in resistor 5K config, and I have seen a 10K resistor cap, that would work without a resistor plug as well.
Another option is to use spiral wound coil wire, made for race CDI systems such as MSD or better, I have run this without a resistor cap on the twin fire system using a race resistor plug and it worked fine.

[F5 Dave]

There are a lot of little things they don't say in the manwell, I wasted a night trying to get a spark just because I didn't click that you needed to push the changes into the CDI. Sounds obvious when you have played with it, but when you are looking at something on a screen & you change it, you assume it is changed. Why no Worky?

There is no mention of the single set up, so thanks for that info, but what of the other input?

[RomeuPT]

Stainless pipes are an absolute bitch to make due to the material stiffness, use 304 as its soft and you MUST use gas purge inside the chamber or the welds will be shit and it will crack.
The material has no performance advantage over mild, it dissipates heat a little differently, but for a road bike it does look nice.

Many thanks wobbly, I think I will stay with my mild steel pipes then

[TZ350]

but what of the other input?

I leave mine disconnected.....

[F5 Dave]

thanks. maybe I'll have to start the bike & check with the timing light, but did seem to be flashing ok turning by hand & with battery (plan to lose the battery in race use as charging cct works, or at least I'll monitor it later to see its holding up under load).

[F5 Dave]

Oh hold on.


So if I set a flat curve & then adjust the base advance, i'd have to set the first point at say 200rpm or I can't spin the rear wheel to 1000rpm perhaps? therefore it won't see the correction. Maybe?

I haven't been able to start the bike & wake kiddies while working on it at nightime.

[wobbly]

The first changeable point available is 300 rpm, it fires on the base advance up to 300 then switches to the programmed curve.
Its easy to set a straight line at TDC ie 0* advance,as then you can do it just with a DTI in the plug hole - no protractor or calculations needed.
Set it at TDC and mark the rotor and stator with a felt pen line.
Leave the plug connected on the head, but not screwed in , and its easy to spin the rotor with an electric drill and a socket on the rotor nut - no racket involved, kids snore on unaware.
Strobe the lines - advancing the base advance retards the firing point.
I like to keep the base advance near 10* then there is little chance of it kicking back and trying to start in reverse.
All this is super easy on the dyno of course using the starter on the roller to spin it over.

DO NOT run the charging circuit without a battery or a capacitor .
Without a load the rec/reg can fire out up to 80V and then some smoke comes out of the Ignitech.
With no smoke inside it tends not to work at all, and yes I can tell if this nastyness has been inflicted on the poor thing ,so then it will cost money to fix.

[F5 Dave]

Hey that's an even easier idea, I'll run with that.

I tried to think of a way to connect to my drill (my socket adaptors went the wrong way) but it was easy to spin the rear wheel with the plug sparking on the head, but I didn't consider I wasn't going fast enough. I can always use the airgun if I fill the compressor earlier,

-ahh its belt drive its quiet enough anyway. they sleep through the lathe & sometimes the grinder, - just though firing up the bike in the driveway or under the house would be a step too far.

The reg/rec I have is a *onda CR one & has a heatshrunk covered Cap wired to it, but good points.

I work in the electronics industry, but I let other people deal with the regassing of ICs which have sprung a leak these days.


0* is great idea & DTI easier to use if I need to move the flywheel on the taper.


Thanks Wob. When I get some more funds I must get one for the 50, but it is almost a waste to run without an external solenoid to PJ the smaller carb. That's one bike that could seriously use some more over rev.

[wobbly]

The ECU detects that only a single input is being activated by a trigger - in classic it then fires both outputs automatically and simultaneously.
Perfect for a Rotax tandem twin, thats why i got Ignitech to add a trim function for each cylinder.
In special mode you can elect to turn one output off, and run the whole thing as a single system.
Other menus allow such things as firing a 180* twin off a single trigger by using a multi tooth rotor so that the ECU recognises cylinder 1 then 2 in turn - waste spark is dumb and
unnecessary now we have this technology available.