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Thread: ESE's works engine tuner

  1. #12391
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    28th March 2013 - 04:29
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    Quote Originally Posted by jasonu View Post
    :

    Probably not on a Buckets tuning thread.
    Ok sorry

    Quote Originally Posted by wobbly View Post
    I have not tried to do an MX design for a 250, only fully ported Open class 250 karts.
    We ran 1080 pipes on these but i found no advantage in steep angles that ended in anything fatter than 135, and besides I doubt even that diameter would fit on the bike.
    A belly that fat on the MX ported setup I believe would overscavenge and loose important low/mid power for little gain in top end that is hardly used during a dirt based race.
    Here is a comparo of 250 - 2T and the 4T competition, showing what is needed to be competitive.
    ahhh, a decent dyno comparison, KTM and 450 4t cleary superior.

    The stock belly from my ktm seems to be around 120+.

    Thanks

    Sorry for a bit of offtopic.

    Here in Portugal race bucket's are becoming popular too..

  2. #12392
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    28th March 2013 - 04:29
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    Woobly, to make a pipe fitment in this case If I remember it was said earlier in this topic that each cone intersection robs power without all the work to make it clean inside and round, so a hydroformed header instead of a lot of cones would perform better right?

    I was looking at this photo of this header, don't remeber where it was from.

    This is made with two flat sheet's pressed agaisnt a mold and then welded together right?

    Thanks
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  3. #12393
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    8th February 2007 - 20:42
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    No,No,NO.
    The hydroforming method works very well in headers where normally there are sharp radii and may cut sections.
    But as soon as the angle deltas increase dramatically, getting into the diffuser section, the smoothing and smearing effect of the continuous progressive angle change looses power.
    This is most dramatic when changing angle each side of the belly section.

    The best combination of methods is hydroforming the front section followed by individual cones.
    The pipe in the pic has no sharp angle changes - thus likely is a blown up type.

    Honda has used the die formed method for years, with two halves pressed in a CNC machined form tool.
    This also gives good sharp angle changes, but with no weld finishing needed.

    I spent - wasted - months of time at JL building pipes for 250 Superkarts learning how to do really beautiful formed shapes.
    But even with the mid section clamped in a ring,to at least keep that parallel, we lost around 2 Hp per pipe against the best hand built section method.

    KTM did a nice job of this, but sadly they were stuck in a Bartol time warp with the actual design elements.
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    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  4. #12394
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    Quote Originally Posted by RomeuPT View Post
    Woobly, to make a pipe fitment in this case If I remember it was said earlier in this topic that each cone intersection robs power without all the work to make it clean inside and round, so a hydroformed header instead of a lot of cones would perform better right?

    I was looking at this photo of this header, don't remeber where it was from.

    This is made with two flat sheet's pressed agaisnt a mold and then welded together right?

    Thanks
    What is concerning is the Manx Norton sketch behind with the minimoto wheel concept.

    predated 16" wheels I guess might be a bit of flex in those forks


    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  5. #12395
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    25th March 2009 - 23:55
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    Looks more like a 750 SOHC Honda sketch...the Manx would have an oil leak designed-in! (from the cambox).

  6. #12396
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    meh I was just looking at the pinstriping on the tank, but yes there are some extra pipes shown than a single requires. Silly bloody things, - look where the carbs are mounted. Ridiculous!
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  7. #12397
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    27th July 2011 - 17:23
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    Quote Originally Posted by TZ350 View Post
    Attachment 286514

    We have had a TF125 on the dyno today, green line is the base run, red line is dropping the main jet from 230 to 200 and blue line is opening the air correction jet out to 1.1mm and back up to a 240 main jet. Just shows that the air correction jet is worth looking at.
    Huge thanks to TZ350 and the ESE boys for the Dyno time - a bit of time and a lot of experience made a huge difference - one happy camper right here

  8. #12398
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    13th April 2009 - 22:30
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    Reed petal meterials

    I need to replace my petals. The original ones are fiberglass and 0.5 mm thick. What is the best Carbon fiber ones to replace these with. They have 0.3 0.35 and 0.4.

    The reed block has two sets of reeds. One for low flow and a bigger one sandwiched between it and the block for high flow. Can to run Carbon to Carbon petals or must one be fiberglass ?
    ........Rules are for fools and a guide for the wise ..............

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  9. #12399
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    31st July 2005 - 11:15
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    Quote Originally Posted by TZ350 View Post
    We have had a TF125 on the dyno today, green line is the base run, red line is dropping the main jet from 230 to 200 and blue line is opening the air correction jet out to 1.1mm and back up to a 240 main jet. Just shows that the air correction jet is worth looking at.
    Quote Originally Posted by Farmaken View Post
    Huge thanks to TZ350 and the ESE boys for the Dyno time - a bit of time and a lot of experience made a huge difference - one happy camper right here

    Well done Team.

    That's a great result.
    Looks like there is still something holding it back (possibly transfer duration or is it the 28mm restriction & intake design?) in the top end (26-27 looks very possible).
    It would be very interesting to compare porting to a old RM125 cylinder (late 70's vintage).

    The North Island series is going to be interesting this year.

  10. #12400
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    Eh? You know what boysen reeds are huh? Google it. Either way for road race just plain single reeds will be the go, none of this sandwich ports in the reeds stuff. Or has someone piggybacked some?
    Don't you look at my accountant.
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  11. #12401
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    13th June 2010 - 17:47
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    Quote Originally Posted by marsheng View Post
    I need to replace my petals. The original ones are fiberglass and 0.5 mm thick. What is the best Carbon fiber ones to replace these with. They have 0.3 0.35 and 0.4.

    The reed block has two sets of reeds. One for low flow and a bigger one sandwiched between it and the block for high flow. Can to run Carbon to Carbon petals or must one be fiberglass ?
    You'd better come clean as to just what the motor is, and it's intended use,Wallace. Someone here will know what to use i'm sure.

  12. #12402
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    13th April 2009 - 22:30
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    Maico 250 1982 for road race.
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    Last edited by marsheng; 20th August 2013 at 08:57. Reason: Added info
    ........Rules are for fools and a guide for the wise ..............

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  13. #12403
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    Ahh, dirty ol' Boysens. Throw them. There is often a bit of testing to get best performance to suit a reedblock on a certain engine with certain carb size etc. Cut some & try, if they flutter like buggery try stiffer. 0.3 is a common thickness. I have some old software to estimate but just found trying it easier & more accurate. No doubt engmod2T will know for sure, but I don't have that,
    Don't you look at my accountant.
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  14. #12404
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    8th February 2007 - 20:42
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    Use the softest carbons you can.
    Make a " rev plate " from the old reed 0.5mm material ie a strip say 6mm wide, this sits on top of the carbon under the screws.
    Then take the original thin fibre reeds, cut them to 1/2 length then cut them to make 3 pointed hats,these are backups that sit on top of the 0.5mm spacer.
    Next take the old radius plate and cut it to 1/3 its original length,this sits on top of the backups with the screws going thru all 4 elements.
    Best reed setup known to man.
    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  15. #12405
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    Pointed hats? Maybe I should be wearing one. Still trying to picture exactly what you mean by that.

    Do you think single reed will ever work as well as individual fingers? I've had reasonable success with that setup, but really limited testing.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

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