ESE's works engine tuner

[F5 Dave]

Keep trying different testers until you find one that gives you a result you like.

Thanks yeah I could just seal off one end.

I can hear air leak out the carb & pipe. Its all a bit dumb.

[Yow Ling]

Cheers Rob

Going for the EU one with the analogue out for the ignitech. Cheapest engine protection there is. Just not sure if I can get away with just one sensor on the V twin. Will give it bash.

U sure you want the analog one ? I think the input for retard is a off/on so you want the open collector output on the det box

[richban]

U sure you want the analog one ? I think the input for retard is a off/on so you want the open collector output on the det box

Yeah ummmm. I'm not sure of anything when it comes to wires and little black boxes of magic.

[wobbly]

Yea you need the output to ground option, this earth's the Ignitech input to retard mode.

[Ocean1]

Got my tester going and sez 35%leak.

Tragic. Or is it?

What's "normal" for one of them 2T thingies with all the holes in the cylinder and just the one skinny wee ring?

And what sort of hone did you use?

[F5 Dave]

Was honed by the local kart guy (adjustable stone hone, but manual).

You lock the engine at the top to test. He sez KTs usually run 8% in fresh condition.

Next time I will put the plates either side & torqued & heat the barrel up & try again.

Still think I'm, losing power like this, but not sure how to get better seal if above doesn't work.

[speedpro]

To confirm where it's leaking, or to eliminate possibilities, I'd pull it apart and put it back together with a good coat of grease on the piston, then test again. I would also not assume anything regarding the head gasket and it might get a good coat of grease as well, or the o-ring. 35% is not good especially when you think it'll probably only get worse with heat.

[Kickaha]

Good couple of pages on a fuel injected two stroke Kawasaki thingy in the latest KR

[F5 Dave]

To confirm where it's leaking, or to eliminate possibilities, I'd pull it apart and put it back together with a good coat of grease on the piston, then test again. I would also not assume anything regarding the head gasket and it might get a good coat of grease as well, or the o-ring. 35% is not good especially when you think it'll probably only get worse with heat.

I guess it would be interesting. I'll give it a shot when its back together (just cutting the fins off to weld on a water jacket).

The fact I can hear it out the pipe & the carb mean there is a leak past piston ring.

I should compare to some of my other engines but I know my 50 is a bit oval bored as I can see light past the ring, - but then it has done almost 10 years very near 14,000 consistently.
I could try the 496 or the dirtbike but they are both plated 72mm bores so not similar. Should be equal to a KT.

[TZ350]

Yea you need the output to ground option, this earth's the Ignitech input to retard mode.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Knock-gauge-...-/181138934401

[RomeuPT]

Use the softest carbons you can.
Make a " rev plate " from the old reed 0.5mm material ie a strip say 6mm wide, this sits on top of the carbon under the screws.
Then take the original thin fibre reeds, cut them to 1/2 length then cut them to make 3 pointed hats,these are backups that sit on top of the 0.5mm spacer.
Next take the old radius plate and cut it to 1/3 its original length,this sits on top of the backups with the screws going thru all 4 elements.
Best reed setup known to man.

This is what we are searching for?

I had talked to some people that used to race Honda RS 125 for years, they say that Vforce 2 reeds for Honda RS 125 give a wider peak power band and a slightly improvement at botton end over stock. I had installed ones on my NSR 125 with the RS cylinder and felt the same. It also seems that carburation goes a little richer. Can you say something about your experiences with Vforce?

Thanks

[TZ350]

http://www.pit-lane.biz/t4072p20-gp1...vermars-part-3

Does covering the header of the exhaust with some isolating material have any benefit in performance?

No, I don't think so.
But it helps to make the engine reach the same revs on the circuit as it does on the dyno.
And it could help to keep down crankcase temperature.
I would have liked to paint the exhaust with isolating paint.
Preferably on the inside!
Doing so might have made different exhaust dimensions necessary.
It would have been very interesting.
But I never had the time to do it, which I still regret!

Working at the dyno daily, the big-end was changed after about 220 tests.
Each test taking about 6 minutes.
And also the exhaust was cleaned at the inside, removing the carbon deposit.
After this it took about a week for the same maximum power to return.
And you also needed a richer carburation, because with a clean exhaust pipe the engine had more tendency to detonate.
The teams that went to the races always cleaned their exhaust pipes on the saturday evening, before the race.
I tried to convince them not to do this, but nobody believed me!
To a lesser degree the same thing happened with the dampers.
Filling them with new glass fiber always gave less power and more detonation, for about 3-4 days!

[RomeuPT]

http://www.pit-lane.biz/t4072p20-gp1...vermars-part-3

I had posted that question on pit-lane, and Jan came with very good info about some other pipe concerns. Very good of him..

I no more recomended anyone to clean the exhaust from carbon after that post

[TZ350]

Yes there is lots of good information on the Pit-Lane thread, I hope they don't mind if I re post bits here (with full acknowledgement to the original authors of course) from time to time.

[TZ350]

http://www.pit-lane.biz/t4072p260-gp...vermars-part-3

some people still think I'm crazy .

But Frits, you're sure that relates to crankcase volume?

Not solely, Graham. I've said lots of things that seem hard to swallow. Here is an anthology:

'The part of the exhaust port area beneath the transfer port level is a waste of real estate'.

'A high secondary compression ratio improves power in a four-stroke;
in a two-stroke with an efficient exhaust system it is the other way around'.

'Two-stroke rpm is limited by blowdown and scavenging angle.areas, not by crankshaft reliability issues'.

'Comparisons of differently sized engines should be based on mean piston speed, not on rpm'.

'Piston clearance, coolant flow rate, radiator size and ambient temperature are practical limits to engine cooling,
but in theory there is no such thing as too much cooling'.

'Top speed is the most unimportant thing in racing. Keeping your minimum speed high is the most important'.

The above collection should be sufficient to earn me a reserved place in an asylum, don't you think, Graham? :joker:.

There is some real Gold on that Pit-Lane thread.