ESE's works engine tuner

**husaberg** · 8th September 2013, 16:16

Reply to myself well it could be the Mahindra............
i found these pics

**TZ350** · 8th September 2013, 20:25

Click image for larger version.

Name: Scotts 50.jpg
Views: 98
Size: 222.4 KB
ID: 287316

Not been having too much luck with the 50.

So gave up and set the Beast up for its first EFI startup.

Click image for larger version.

Name: EFI First Run 1.jpg
Views: 65
Size: 222.1 KB
ID: 287317

Got the maps loaded and everything setup and it pretty much fired up straight away, ran for a bit then cut out.

Remembering the fuel pump does not like any air bubbles I carefully blead the fuel line to the pump and tried again.

It fired up easy as and ran for 15-20 seconds then it cut out again.

Click image for larger version.

Name: Pump 1.jpg
Views: 61
Size: 242.4 KB
ID: 287318

I think the problem is in how I have the pressure regulator fuel return line setup. Its setup as a return to the suction side of the pump, any air/fuel vapor in the regulator return line will vapor lock the the pump....

.... Chambers tried to tell me but .......

Anyway it was good to hear the Beast kick into life, sure it ran rough and the induction noise was way worse than the exhaust, worse than anything I have heard before.

Could a harsh induction sound indicate good inlet suction action???? I have no idea.

And I don't have the faintest clue where the injection timing is in relationship to the transfer closing point either.

So a few things to sortout and quite a bit to learn, but it runs.

**Frits Overmars** · 8th September 2013, 20:32

Trying to preheat the fuel, TeeZee? You may get bubbles allright, even if they are not air bubbles. Some fuel components boil below 50°C....

**TZ350** · 8th September 2013, 21:18

Originally Posted by Frits Overmars

Trying to preheat the fuel, TeeZee? Some fuel components boil below 50°C....

yes I see your point but it is not as close to the chamber as it looks, everything is pretty loose so I can change things about easily.

**Flettner** · 8th September 2013, 21:19

No, you must send the fuel back to the tank, separately. You must have a large flow pipe to the pump from the tank also a large flow pre filter and an high pressure after filter. Much fuel is traveling around the circuit. You do not want cavitation, you do not want any blockage or you engine will expire, quickly. Those little chinese pumps do not like any contamination / cavitation. Your engine relies heavily on this pump maintaining constant flow / pressure. I know you know this but just saying.

**TZ350** · 8th September 2013, 21:26

Originally Posted by Flettner

No, you must send the fuel back to the tank,

Thanks for the tips, looks like I am off to the hose shop again tomorrow for a return line and Supercheap to see what filters they have. I am already using a big filter for a header tank for the pump but will get something to go after the pump.

**twotempi** · 8th September 2013, 22:03

No, No. No you guys !!! Don't encourage him to pre-heat the fuel because he will get a large saucepan and try to do it on the stove element !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

**speedpro** · 8th September 2013, 22:09

Totally agree about returning the pressure regulator outlet to the tank, though , , , I haven't quite done that myself. I have a secondary tank fed from the main bike tank. The outlet to the pump is from near the bottom, the regulator return is near the top, and the very top of this little tank is pulled up into a peak with an air bleed. Theoretically once it's all bled it should never get air in it and what little may eventually appear out of the fuel circuit will collect at the top of the secondary tank well away from the outlet to the pump. Haven't tried it yet but it should work and I'll bring it to bucket racing this weekend and hopefully not embarrass myself again.

**Muciek** · 9th September 2013, 03:55

Hey guys, I would like to know what do you think about Power porting in engine that have reed valve in cylinder. In Bell book there are only few sentences about it , and he says to cut the piston to get around 200* of opening. Did someone know is there any formula to calculate appropriate degree of opening to get good results or get close to ballpark?

**Yow Ling** · 9th September 2013, 06:08

I would not bother with a filter after the pump, I bthink it is just a hazard, you will have 40 psi fuel downstream waiting for a way to get out.
What purpose will it serve other than to catch the parts of the fuelpump as it wears out, if the fuel is clean going into the pump it should be clean coming out

**cotswold** · 9th September 2013, 10:36

Thought this was clever

**Drew** · 9th September 2013, 10:45

Originally Posted by speedpro

Totally agree about returning the pressure regulator outlet to the tank, though , , , I haven't quite done that myself. I have a secondary tank fed from the main bike tank. The outlet to the pump is from near the bottom, the regulator return is near the top, and the very top of this little tank is pulled up into a peak with an air bleed. Theoretically once it's all bled it should never get air in it and what little may eventually appear out of the fuel circuit will collect at the top of the secondary tank well away from the outlet to the pump. Haven't tried it yet but it should work and I'll bring it to bucket racing this weekend and hopefully not embarrass myself again.

Agghhh stink. I thought I was going to have something constructive to contribute. This bastard beat me to it.

Essentially you've created a surge tank I think. Air will end up at the top of it I imagine, as fuel sloshes away from the tank pickup and the pump is still scuking fuel from the second tank.

On a bike it's not as bad as in a car, but I should think it will still happen.