ESE's works engine tuner

[Flettner]

Oh, I don't think that's a problem, I've seen B&S engines in a motorbike frame before ( mini bike ), that counts!

[husaberg]

"Engines must be derived from non-competition motorcycles"
Sorry to be the rules Lawyer...

Thanks ... saved me, I was getting all excited about lawn mower engines there for a moment.

See the S in engines there is also one in the Apendix D
for class Max engines capacity........ i guess Billy might have overlooked that

Sorry i could not, Not appreciate the irony of that

[Ocean1]

Oh, I don't think that's a problem, I've seen B&S engines in a motorbike frame before ( mini bike ), that counts!

My old man even made two, which counts as a production machine, surely?

In fact both were eventually repowered with Wankels.

[Flettner]

Ha Ha, a production run!
Well, here we are getting into " my old man " stories, my dad had two 25HP wankels on a single seat helicopter back in the early 70's . Joined by a tooth belt drive, each engine had a sprag clutch just if one stopped you see. It would have to rate as one of the most frightening experiences of my life, rotors spinning ( I was sure one would detach ) with two wankels at full noise. We used to hide behind the shed when testing was under way, I could see it ending very badly one day. And it did.

[twotempi]

Mercedes Benz had a process that used rollers ( a bit like rollers instead of abrsive stones of a hone ? ) to high-pressure force a slurry film on to an aluminium cylinder bore. Does anyone know anything about this ??

[F5 Dave]

Well continuing the testing I always find what should work isn't a given. With the Ignitech Wobs fav RGV coil swapped in do something queer, it dropped the revs and power slightly. So I might of got a bit back by changing the timing, but tried running a bit cooler and it dropped off so swapped back to Grady old coil and it came back.

also tried my flash Harry Rsomething NGK race plug & lost a bit of power over BR9ES. Again maybe I need to compensate to get best results, or maybe my head shape just doesn't like it.


Ring seal might be better after using torque plates, power came up, but must retest to see if that is what it was, also water cooled barrel so that could be some.

[wobbly]

The flash NGK plug ( as long as it is the same heat range ) in a back to back test always outperforms any other plug when in a stressed combustion scenario.
Super high bmep with very high pressures and temps needs every Joule or whatever of energy in the gap,to initiate a clean burn, and having an Iridium centre and Platinum fine wire ground strap
makes it much easyer for the spark to ionize and begin the burn.
Using a trick plug in a non highly stressed environment is the same as running leaded race gas in a lawnmower - a complete waste of time and money.
Same with flash combustion chamber shapes like a flat top bathtub or toroidal with a sharp edged,wide squish into the bowl.
None of this is effective in creating HP unless the end use setup is pushing the limits to the max, and the better combustion control, or deto resistance, is actually needed for the thing to physically survive.

[F5 Dave]

Yeah I've seen big changes for seemingly small things before but I've also seen no changes for known better setups. Maybe I'm not pushing the limits, but I'm not far off what Mike has had on his MB in the past. Same revs and I think I'd be there. Mine isn't well developed yet, still a bit peaky to claim I've done a good job. But this was always my quick &dirty setup. Just it's been going on longer than I'd hoped.


I'll try again when I'm nearer.

[Frits Overmars]

...I've also seen no changes for known better setups.

A two-stroke is like a combination lock with 10 digits, Dave. You won't notice if a digit is right or wrong until you've found them all....

[F5 Dave]

Yes, I've returned from the dyno more times than not returned to an original setting.

but latest jump was following Wob KT idea of torque plates and heating the barrel. My MB engine just seemed to respond to that well, but haven't measured ring seal again, must be better.

was confused by the coil how it dropped peak revs. Somehow advancing timing perhaps.

[Drew]

Yes, I've returned from the dyno more times than not returned to an original setting.

but latest jump was following Wob KT idea of torque plates and heating the barrel. My MB engine just seemed to respond to that well, but haven't measured ring seal again, must be better.

was confused by the coil how it dropped peak revs. Somehow advancing timing perhaps.

Higher resistance in the better coil and quicker response perhaps. That's a really short version of what I'm thinking because I'm posing from phone.

Are you not running ignitech on yours Dave?

[F5 Dave]

yeah its igni with Wobs 2 into 1output configuration. running a largely straight curve with a 1*drop after peak but need to calibrate the knockgauge & set it up a bit better, just wanted a constant till I sort some other issues.

The watercooling of barrel seemed to work well, but the pump I'm running is a little underrated. Problem is the thermistor is in the RS rad but doesn't stick down far enough compared to mechanical one, may have to move it into the head to see what is happening tempwise.

[wobbly]

Do you mean straight line retard, or a flat line.
A flat line is for sure not even close to whats needed on any 2T setup??

[2T Institute]

also tried my flash Harry Rsomething NGK race plug & lost a bit of power over BR9ES. Again maybe I need to compensate to get best results, or maybe my head shape just doesn't like it.

Have tested it on the track? At the start of the race you will notice a massive difference. If your engine prefers a ES plug there is something not right.

[F5 Dave]

Flat as a starting point, but I need to try a slope as it drops off pretty fierce. Presumably that will change once I got the Solenoid carb on and include closing the PJ.

What would you suggest as a reasonable retard after peak starting point? 5* drop over 1000rpm? Hope to play with this later this or next week