Page 840 ...
Can't remember where it was from and i was looking for something else.......
I have not seen much written about power jets. Thought I'd share what I know, and hope others can augment it. Perhaps the most succinct definition of a power jet comes from A. Graham Bell's book Two-Stroke Performance Tuning.
"The Powerjet has the effect of enriching the mixture at full, and close to full throttle, and then only when air velocity is high enough to create a vacuum of sufficient intensity to discharge fuel. It is, in effect, a load sensitive enrichment device."
Kay Nissi (sp?) at Mikuni America calls the power jet a "Band-Aid". He says it allows you to run a leaner main jet (for better part-throttle response) while maintaining a safely rich mixture at high RPMs and WOT.
The electrically-operated power jets used on later-model TZs employ a solenoid to enable and disable the flow of fuel. I have observed the power jet solenoid's behavior with my data acquisition system. Under most operating conditions the solenoid is de-energized permitting demand-based flow of fuel through the power jet. However at very high RPMs, the solenoid is energized by the CDI computer, thus *stopping* the flow of fuel. This leans the mixture increasing the temperature of the exhaust gas. Note: This behavior ensures a fail-safe mode of operation. If the solenoid fails or should become unplugged, the mixture will remain rich.
This assessment is confirmed in SAE paper 983072, Measurement of Exhaust Gas Temperatures in a High-Performance Two-Stroke Engine: "Air/fuel ratio may also be managed to influence the exhaust gas temperature. On the test engine, the carburetor was fitted with a solenoid-controlled jet. Below 11700 rpm the jet is open and additional fuel flows to the engine. Above 11700 rpm, the control system actuates the solenoid which closes the jet. This results in a leaner air/fuel ratio which increases the combustion and exhaust gas temperatures, thereby improving the exhaust tuning."
The electrical part of a power jet (the solenoid) sometimes goes bad. A bad power jet solenoid is difficult to diagnose. The engine just runs a bit rich on one cylinder. Therefore, it is a good idea to test the solenoids occasionally.
There are several ways to test the power jet solenoid. On TZs which have a battery, all you need to do is switch the bike on. The computer in the CDI box performs it's power-on self test which includes cycling the power valve servo-motor and the power jet solenoids. Using a piece of radiator hose, you can listen for two distinct "clicks" emanating from each of the solenoids. The first click is produced when the solenoid is energized -- retracting the pintel (this would stop the flow of fuel). The second click is produced when the solenoid is de-energized -- extending the pintel (allowing the flow of fuel).
If you unscrew the solenoid from the fuel-handling part of the power jet (as if you were going to replace the jet itself), you can actually see the pintel retract and extend.
On TZs that don't have an internal battery, you can perform the same test by using Yamaha's test lead (P/N 3TC-82117-00) and an external battery.
To test a power jet solenoid that is off the bike, simply apply 12 volts DC to it. (The solenoid is not polarity sensitive.) You should see the pintle retract and extend each time you apply and remove power.
Because it is next to impossible to repair the solenoid if its electrical connection comes off internally, it is prudent to zip tie the cable to the body of the power jet. This preventive maintenance provides strain relief and should keep the cable from becoming detached in a crash or due to rough handling.
Although OEM power jets invariable come fitted with an opaque hose, I prefer to run a translucent hose. (I use an alcohol resistant fuel line manufactured by Bing and sold through Aircraft Spruce and Specialty.) This allows you to verify there is fuel in the float bowl and also lets you see the fuel level.
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Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
Onto it now Mike, this is all still very new and not yet perfect but is close, brilliant to get lap times and results printed out within minutes of the race finishing .
Any questions or suggestions can be emailed to any of the Auckland bucket committee .
Very happy with my results this weekend, I am hoping to keep up these results for all the work ESE has done helping with my bike![]()
ten carrot actors
Never used it or no idea where to buy it i seen it in a Mag and Googled it it seems it can withstand EX and such like but its all from the seller's info rather than third party. THe company seems legit make refactory stuff and all that kind of stuff.......
Pyro-Putty®
These high temperature ceramic and metal-filled pastes are ideal for repairing pinholes, warps and cracks in manifolds, headers, exhaust pipes, mufflers, and more. Pyro-Putty metal repair compounds bond tenaciously to cast aluminum, cast iron, steel, and stainless, and are easy to apply, cure, machine and clean up.
Pyro-Putty® 1000-K Kit
1400 °F for Cast Aluminum Repair
8 oz Powder, 4 oz Liquid
Pyro-Putty® 2400-K Kit
2000 °F for Cast Iron, Steel, Stainless
8 oz Paste, 4 oz Thinner
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Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
Thanks .....
I am looking for something better than Devcon for sealing the exhaust port dam in my next cylinder.
Thanks, but screw and glue looks like an easy repetable way of doing it.
The last one was held in place with a couple of screws, and that seemed to work OK.
But I suspect the Devcon glue I used to seal it will burn away in due course. I like the exhaust port dam idea and want to give it another serious go.
Tim sent the MyLaps link below.
Hi all,
The results of Round 3 are now on Mylaps. You can get straight to them with this link: http://www.mylaps.com/en/events/956487
Tim
This PJ stuff is all becoming a moot point atm. I don't know what sort of happy pills were being slipped into my weetbix when I dummied up the manifold on the engine on the bench, but I wish they would start again as there is no way this KX carb is going into the RS frame without a fairly major cut & shut.
Problem is the case reed conversion is too low so I'd need to run the PWK at a 40 degree angle which ain't going to happen, or accept a bit of a bend & some unwanted length as a compromise but at least get the PWK carb cw solenoid. . . except the frame needs a rethink. It could almost work if I assembled it & fit the engine to the frame. . .but that means dropping the engine for a jet change & even I think that's unworkable.
So now I'm stuck with the poxy RGV carb & trying to think how to make an external Solenoid PJ conversion. That bit is easy(ish) enough, but the tricky bit is mounting it to the carb where it wont get broken during a jet change (small window to pass through) or made sturdy enough not to leak given wear & tear.
Pass the grinder.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Put a throttle body on it, don't bother with the carb. Throttle body much more compact.
The F9 is losing it's EFI, a backwards step. Seems it's not in the "spirit of the era" if I want to keep racing it in VMX. Fair enough, we will teach them ( VMX pre 75 ) a lesson in how to hot up a rotary valve engine even with a carb on it. Out to the pattern shop to make up a new barrel with modern porting, eye ports etc. More than one way to skin a cat, apparently.
I'll show them " spirit of the era"!!
That shock mount crossmember is a problem for sure. I have looked at all sorts of options like cutting it out and moving the shock to the side and even rotating the engine and mounting it forward with the cylinder near vertical, possibly with a jackshaft. Moving the engine forward needs more investigation though I see problems with chain geometry and possibly clearance to the front wheel
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