Seen this. and i don't really understand?
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Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
Is everything ok with those calculations? I had write there my specs of 250 single and it tells me that belly should have ID 168mm kinda too big I think... What do you think guys about this http://www.dragonfly75.com/motorbike/ECtheory.html looks interesting to me.
KTM's back when they were also Pentons used a very similar Z shaped additional transfer pair above the inlet. Executed a little better though....
Frits answer is undoubtedly correct also. It's why you should always get the head back on quickly so as to keep the rats out.
Yamaha did something similar in the TA125 and HH did many cylinders with the same idea.
All its trying to do is get some more transfer area and boost port scavenging for the loop
up the rear wall,where there is no actual room around the piston inlet port.
I could do with some semi trained mice here, specially if they can be taught to use a Tig on 0.8mm cold rolled.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
Well I got the dyno back together (though now the ancient PC is trying to fight me) but it goes Hoorah.
Got some runs in getting an ign curve with some benefits, needs more time. Didn't get to try the new carb arrangement. Foiled by a stuck float pivot pin (I have to swap bits over from one carb to the other body) & didn't have the tools to remove it. Got home & got it all sorted (with a tool I did eventually find in the gear I took with me).
Either way I had made a silly mistake with the PJ wiring, forgetting again that the power out grounds the power, not feeds it, so I'll swap some earth for volts and we'll be in action, hopefully for another run sunday which is close to leaving for Chch as I dare leave it. Blowing through the PJ feed & activating solenoid really clamps it off.
Knock gauge feedback was once plugged in last night; doesn't affect the power curve but does calm down the occasional orange flashing. Seems like a good safetynet, but obviously don't want to rely on it in case it broke.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Actually i don´t know.
On my 132cc engine it´s seems really ok.
On a friends 90cc engine it also seems ok.
And on a other friends 66cc Zündapp it seems ok.
I haven´t checked it on any bigger displacemant engines than mine 132cc.
People in Sweden with snowmobiles use this program every now and then, and they say it seems to work.
I´ve got 130mm belly on my engine for example as i were a bit chicken on third stage diffuser.
The program says i should have 134mm,,(exhaustcalculator program that one can dowload)
this program also says 134mm.
If you got time and money, give it a go, it might just be a success,, and ofcourse,, it could be a disaster.
Frits that is very very competent here in the forum might give us a clue wether it works or not?
Rgds
Patrick
Hells teeth Frits, it looks like a Warsaw Pact tank bunker - oh thats right the Czechs were in the Warsaw Pact.
Did they shout you lunch of dry bread and water.
Sure doesnt inspire much confidence as the worlds leading edge ECU manufacturers when they work in that sort of environment.
If thats the front door, whats it like out back ?
Reminds me of most of what I saw of China's manufacturing base - shitty rat holes with exposed 3Ph wiring all over the place - dead scary.
I did finally get my big shipment of ignitions after a 5 month wait, heres hoping the latest order is handled better.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
Hey Wob, as we're talking Ignitec, how would YOU go about offsetting the ignition timing of the rear cylinder on a inline twin, I would like to be able to adjust at a finer value than the 1* values of the Ignitec or is there something I'm missing ?
Nice pic Frits![]()
Ignitech put in the individual channel "correction " years ago, specifically for me when I got sick of spending hours correctly retarding
the rear cylinder on Rotaxs by grinding the keys.
I have since asked if they would reduce the amounts of correction to 0.5* increments but had no joy with that request.
You can fool the motor into receiving the correct timing on each cylinder by increasing the base advance on the stator ( thus retarding the actual timing )
and then advancing the front cylinder in its correction box.
By playing with each of the 3 variables - base timing and each cylinders correction - you can get precise actual firing of any amount in each cylinder.
I did this another way the other day on a TD3 that had 3 lobes on the plate and a single trigger.
The 1* increment of retard on one cylinder was too much, so I physically retarded the stator by 1/2* then advanced the other cylinder by 1* in software - this
gave perfect timing of both on the strobe.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
Im kinda shocked by the building that ignitech work out of. Oh well as long as they keep making good ignitions its all good
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