On the 300. It has a funny little issue while warming up. Starts really well runs great on warm up then just stops. Start again and the repeat. Then 3rd go and it's fine. Could it be to much advance? 32 deg. It stops from quite hi rpm. 5 6k maybe.
Forum whore
On the 300. It has a funny little issue while warming up. Starts really well runs great on warm up then just stops. Start again and the repeat. Then 3rd go and it's fine. Could it be to much advance? 32 deg. It stops from quite hi rpm. 5 6k maybe.
Moped rider
Well done on getting the bike running Rich ! You must be using the ignitech to run the powerjet carbs ?
Forum whore
Hi Neal.Originally Posted by Neal
No power jets yet. Just waiting on connectors. I could just choc bock them but they are off with no connection so we will see how it goes like that.
When you bringing your one to NZ?
Forum whore
Page 930 ....
this was posted a while back
http://www.underdogsracing.com/fospipe/
frits has also posted a pic of his 50pipe that has won the last 5 euro championships or something i have it somewhere.
Tim, right now you may be more interested in ' All that you wanted to know about the Aprilia RS50'. Here are some numbers to play around with. Exhaust pipes don't come any simpler than this, but don't let that fool you; this pipe was good for eight championships. Just don't show it to the Poms; year after year they keep trying to beat those Dutch 50 cc bikes.
About the step in the exhaust duct: if there is a step and you remove it, you lose power. I think the main reason is that in removing the step you increase the duct volume. The Malossi cylinder I experimented with has no step at all, but as you can see in the pipe drawing, the exhaust duct is quite narrow. That works.They are an oddball unknown in the universe i think i posted the size on the Help NF4 page Scott knows anyway.
Oh well its not there but we discussed it somewhere i think the od has to be changed on a common one.......
Googlle,,,says.......
http://2stroker.createforumhosting.c...ngs-t6176.html
here's he parts list the bearing sizes for pretty much anything are on the Sudco site.
I have posted and made a sheadsheet somewhere........
Click on the arrow after Husaberg below and it will take you to the sheadsheets
Forum whore
This may not be the answer but these are four possible power supply traps that will cause the Ignitec to turn itself off.
Trap (1) The Ignitec draws about 0.3A at idle and progressively more up to maybe 1.5-2.5A as the rpm increases. The Ignitec will turn off if the current draw pulls the battery voltage down to 8Volts.
If your running total loss and the battery is getting a bit low, and your just cruising then the Ignitec will miss fire but if your caning it, it will cut right out.
The right way to check a battery is to put it under load.
The right way to check a motorcycle size batteries health is to put something like a 25-35W bulb across it and measure the voltage between the battery terminals while the battery is powering the light. A good battery will still show 12.0V a dud one much less.
This is the wrong way to check a battery because it can give misleading results.
Trap (2) Another possibility is a battery with internally broken connections. I have had problems with those yellow batteries and also those black sealed jel ones. I think the vibration breaks the connections between the plates. If the break is still touching it will allow you to measure 12.6V across the battery terminals but its not a good enough connection to pass the current required by the Ignitec. Once again a 25-35W bulb is your friend here.
Trap (3) If you have a generator and capacitor system, then the voltage regulator could be cutting out when the current draw gets to high, I think you will need at least a 50W rectifier/regulator unit for a twin 2T.
Trap (4) Yet another possibility is your generator charging system is providing more than 18V peak.
16V DC as measured by a volt meter can easily have 2-3V ripple on top that the Volt meter cant see. The Volt meter cant see the peak Voltage because the 2-3V ripple is effectively AC, but the Ignitec sees it.
2-3V ripple can easily happen if you have a high voltage generator that cant produce enough current or the capacitor is a bit under size. The Ignitec turns itself of when it sees 18V or more.
If you have a ripple issue the Ignitec turns itself of lots of times in quick succession and as the rpm drops to the point the generator/rectifier/regulator/capacitor can maintain a steady voltage the Ignitec will come on and stay on until the current (Amps) load increases to the point you get ripple again.
Ripple ... if Blue is Voltage and Red is Amps you can see how the voltage required to get enough current can easily exceed 18V.
Under 8 Volts or over 18 Volts the Ignitec protects itself by turning off.
Forum whore
Much Thanks Rob.
I think it could be an old dodgy reg/rectifier. I have another so will give that a go tomorrow at the track.
Bucket Racer/Crasher
Depending on the charging system it may be capable of delivering a lot more current than you are using. With the usual motorcycle permanent magnet type of alternator that output is generated regardless of whether the motorcycle needs it or not. If it is not needed the reg/rec dumps it to ground and can get hot in the process. My FZR reg/rec got too hot to touch even though it was bolted to an alloy plate. Now I have the ALM lambda sensor drawing a bit of current it "seems" to be a bit cooler. If your voltage is not being regulated well it may be a matter of providing a bit more load.
Forum whore
Now that is Trap (5) of electrical trickery things that could be wrong.
Forum whore
http://www.treehugger.com/cars/7-ele...7-seconds.html
Electrical trickery ..... is there no end to this clever electrical stuff.
Forum whore
I have just checked out that site and found a link to this. Ok so its not buckets but it is a motorcycle and seriously clever.
http://www.treehugger.com/cars/7-ele...7-seconds.html
Electrical trickery ..... is there no end to this clever electrical stuff.
Eva Håkansson is a hardcore “EV geek” with a green heart and passion for power and speed.
She is the owner, builder and driver of the record-holding electric streamliner motorcycle “KillaJoule” and part of the KillaCycle racing team. Married to Bill “Mr. KillaCycle” Dube’.
Eva is a Mechanical Engineer (M.Sc) and PhD student at University of Denver.
http://killacycleracing.com/about-us/eva-hakansson/
KillaJoule is the world’s fastest electric sidecar motorcycle with a top speed of 216 mph (348 km/h) so far.
Builder, owner and driver is Eva Håkansson.
KillaJoule is really eco-activism in disguise. The only purpose of this 19 ft., 400 HP, sleek, sexy motorcycle is to show that eco-friendly doesn’t mean slow and boring.
And then there is the 8 second drag bike.
http://media.killacycleracing.com/20...for_slider.jpg
You will have to go and have a poke around the sight if you wan't to know more.
http://killacycleracing.com/about-us/eva-hakansson/
Moped rider
Mine is half in SA and half in Oz , I need to pull finger and get motivated again .
I was battling with rich jetting in the higher gears with my powerjet carbs , it would pull clean in the lower gears but in 5 and 6th it would be too rich
Why Not???: MNZ975.
Hi Neal.
I think wobbly made a comment earlier in this thread about moving the powerjet tube higher up the slide (I.e. Bending it upwards). And also some discussion around using the gear position sensor to better control the opening interval of the powerjet. Primarily achieving better over rev...
Hopefully he re-post further info on both points as I suspect it is going to be critical to the success of the 300.
Anorak
not sure if this will work...................
Real transfer ports ..........[/QUOTE]
servo for PV
With 'theoretical cycles' you mean the Carnot diagram 8)? Yes, it would be nice to have a really fast combustion; then you could ignite later and the heat losses would be smaller. But there is a big gap between theory and practice.
In a 125 cc race engine the spark-plug sparks at about 14° BTDC @ 13000 rpm. Then combustion starts really slow: after the spark another 10° go by before you can detect the first signs of combustion. Then combustion continues for a little over 40° (this is at full throttle; with less cylinder filling, combustion is a lot slower).
According to a knowledge (e) KTM have a system where via data logging at the end of the straight as additional fuel is injected, with closed gas so, in order to lubricate the piston extra.
Because each lap can be different is the start / finish line, the point from which time is set.
That seems accommodation, at the end of the straight is the most critical point for a lockup!
With the throttle closes the piston cooling off, immediately!
And then they also have high speed by downshifting too early.
Is it useful to slow down combustion on some operating phases? Yes and no. I will try to explain this in a little physics lesson.
No matter which way the piston is moving, as long as there is combustion, the pressure in the cylinder keeps rising. Only after combustion is finished the expansion of the burnt gas can begin.
Slow combustion means that the piston is already well on its way down before expansion can begin; it means less expansion for the burnt gas in the cylinder before the exhaust ports open.
Less expansion means less cooling down of the gas in the cylinder: it is still hotter when it enters the expansion chamber. In hotter gas the speed of sound is higher and that means a higher resonance frequency for the cylinder-pipe system, so it works better at high rpms.
But how do you slow the combustion speed down? Less squish? Mixture too rich? You do not want to do that...
Fortunately there is a simpler solution. We do not slow combustion down; we just start it later: we retard the ignition timing. As far as the exhaust gas temperature in the expansion chamber is concerned, the effect is the same: the engine runs better at high revs.
That is the reason for programmable ignition systems.
Below the power band the ignition advance can be more than 30° so that there is a whole lot of expansion; the burnt gas contains hardly any energy when it enters the exhaust pipe, so the exhaust pulses that arrive at the wrong moments at low rpm, are weak and will not disturb the scavenging too much.
At the rpm of maximum torque the ignition advance is about 14° (careful, a litte too much advance here and you get detonation), and at maximum revs the advance can be 10° or less (Honda even went to 3° after TDC ).Dellorto's have been gracing Rotax engines first , with the bore size growing to 39.5mm on the VHSB body, then after Aprilia took over the engine production the VHSD appeared with a 41mm bore then the first generation S-DAS (stepper motor driven power jet) then the pulsed power jet and the latest VHSG 42mm with the APX electronics .
Unsure if other carbs were tried but never seen an Aprilia RSA/RSW without one. I'm not sure but I think it was more down to Dellorto working closely with Aprilia and a pinch of nationalistic pride. No doubt they work very well and if it aint broke.....................
To give you an idea of the main jet / power jet ratio: typical RSA-values are main 220, power 120. That means the flow area of the power jet is about (120/220)^2 = 0.3 times the flow area of the main jet. And don't shut the power jet until well past the rpm of maximum power or you will risk a maximum seizure.An area of differentiation seems to be in bellmouth designs which each team seems to have their own idea on what the form should be.The 'high compression brickwall' is no longer as hard as it used to be. With leaded fuel the compression ratio was 19,5; nowadays it is about 15. The 'brickwall' arose from the high expansion ratio (which is identical to the compression ratio). The higher this ratio, the more the burnt gases in the cylinder cool down before they enter the exhaust, thus lowering the resonance frequency of the exhaust system.
Riders complained that the engine would not rev, especially not in the lower gears, where the revs rose so quickly that the rising wall temperature of the exhaust pipes could not keep up with them. So you had cold exhaust gas and cold pipes.
The problem was to a large extent solved when the solenoid-controlled on/off-power jets were replaced with stepper motor-controlled jets that could continuously adjust mixture strenght, allowing the engine to rev more freely.• Aha, I see. I think I got it now, Frits.
If the powerjet is positioned in the middle of the venturi or at a lower point, that will affect how much it will flow, correct?
I remember both Lectron and Mikuni aftermarket PJ kits' instructions, saying that the end tip of the pj should be around the middle of the carb.
Yet the Keihin PJ of the carbs for the mx250 models is down low! Position would also affect which fraction of the flow becomes more rich or not, or that doesn't matter??
When using a simple powerjet nozzle the tip position matters in that no flow will occur until the slide is well past the exit hole, and there is sufficient airflow
to drag fuel up the feed tube above the bowl level.
With the aftermarket add ons and the ones as used by Lectron you can shorten the dump tube so that the flow will only occur at high slide openings,as well as high air flow.
These also have a built in "lag "control in that it takes time for the fuel to rise up the tube and dump out the exit into the air stream.
With a solenoid controlled setup all this is pretty much irrelevant as the flow can only occur when the solenoid is not powered up, and this
is TPS as well as rpm dependant inside the ECU program..
The carbs as used on the MX bikes has the dump tube very low in the bore as they added and subtracted fuel at low slide positions in those bikes.
For a race engine I bend the tube up to around 1/2 bore, as this is where the exit is on the Kehin SPJ carb for RS125/RS250 Honda.
And the general setting is the solenoid is powered up ie no flow below 4000 and 60% TPS and is powered up again at around 12400 to lean off the mixture and increase revon.
This causes a problem with Ignitechs that are used with only a capacitor, as at startup the solenoid is powered up, dragging all the voltage out of the ECU, so I convert the ECU output
to a 3 step truth table, and have the setting such that below 1500rpm the solenoid isnt powered.
Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
Weekend cruiser
So what class would a 300hp electric bucket run in ??
F5 ??
Forum whore
So what class would a 300hp electric bucket run in ??
Same Class as Doc's car, as seen here at EastWood Ravine.
if you make a time machine these people are probably worth knowing http://thelegalgeeks.com/blog/?p=4691
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