I have got R7376 several times for around 35USD, about 1/3 of the cost of the shorty Honda style.
And I would never use an Iridium plug again in a real race engine.
They seemed like a great alternative till we lost several engines in a row, including dropping an earth electrode on
the last corner of the last lap - to take a 125 kart title 3 in a row.
The Iridium centre ceramic will crack and fall off the instant you see even the smallest amount of deto, and the reason the R 7376 style plugs are expensive is that the rare
earth ground strap is laser welded to the body - I have never seen or heard of one failing, and the ceramic can crack occasionally, but again I have never seen one drop out.
Its one of those things, just accept that you pay for what you get, and buy the best when it really matters.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
Thanks for your help guys. Learning (slowly)...
Good night everybody, I have finally the opportunity to use EngMod 2t, and I would like to know if someone as models of common reedvalve cages and common carburetors?
If not, when I measure what I have accurate tools to measure them I will do that and share the files for what I have access:
oko 24, oko 30, dell orto VHSB 34 and some other 32mm and maybe mikuni TM28.
In a side note, what kind of apparatus is the best thing to measure the transfers roof and floor angle?
Best regards, and hope I'm not nagging you guys and girls.
Actually its lunch time here.
Mmm Lunch. Right I'm off to feed.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
There was salad involved.
. . . and fudge
How's that last 10yrs of American food been treating you?![]()
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
im not sure how everyone else did it but i did it this way. just with a paper clip to find the roof and floor angle then used a protractor tool to measure the paper clip. i may have a reed cage loaded into engmod from a old dirtbike but im not sure what good it would do you
on your other angles i just used cardboard the size of the bore and used some wire inside the ports to mark the angles like so. be sure to have a line drawn through the center so you can measure all the angles based off that
![]()
Which raises a point I've been pondering. Your paperclip in the port is measuring the angle perpendicular to the cylinder wall at the port. However most ports don't enter the cylinder perpendicular but at some other angle as per your other photo of the cardboard disc in the cylinder. What angle is EngMod telling you to use? I think it will be the vertical angle in the direction of the port flow which isn't often perpendicular to the cylinder wall.
The radial angles are not actually needed to input the chordal port widths into EngMod ( perpendicular to the direction of the port flow ) but
the axial angle is used to correct the flow area by the cosine of the upward tilt.
There is a worksheet in the code that uses all the angle info to generate the correct widths, but it can just as easily be directly inputed from measurement.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
the paper clip will tell you the horizontal angle, from 90* of the cylinder wall, even though i used the cylinder wall. you can see in the pic its says 7*, that particular paper clip happens to be from a different cylinder i have laying around the garage. the cylinder in the top pic has horizontal angles more around 20* if i recall.
the main transfer page of engmod only asks for horizontal angles, maybe this is all it needs for its calculations, i dont know. theres a seperate page where you can input the vertical angles, i put those in also.
Easy - double the A and B port axial angles.
Move the B port front edge as far forward as you can to make a narrow bridge - and grind it perpendicular to the front/rear axis.
Move the B port rear wall around as far as you can ( limited by the ring pins generally ) and get a hook in there pointing 1/2 way to bore centre.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
There are currently 16 users browsing this thread. (1 members and 15 guests)
Bookmarks