No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Have you tried dirty big torque plates? Will suck heat out till they warm up. Erm, citation needed as they say on wiki. Let's see if I can repost an old pic using the tablet.
Ahh crap, didnt work. - big chunks of steel bolted top and bottom of barrel clamping together. Might help integrity.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Hardcore Biker
I use clamping fixtures when ever possible as they help hold its shape and can provide some what of a heat sink but its not always possible to use such fixtures. I think this weekend ill give the pulse a try as ive heard quit a few times that it can help with distortion.
welded some alloy bungs not long ago and they ended up like eggs afterwards. I think what I did wrong is I tried to weld continuously around the circumference. what I probly should of done was put four tack welds at 3-6-9-12 oclock positions then just weld alittle at a time . going from 12 to 6 to 3 to 9 if that makes sense. then maybe the pulling force from each side of the bung would be more evened out
Highway Biker
This has got to be one of the best threads about engines. There have been some really good thought provoking conversations.
There have also been some of the dumbest shit posted as well. But lucky for me, I can ignore that stuff and then concentrate on the
good oil that is being freely shared by so many.
Photo's and other things that are posted are just as valuable as someone's insight to some theory that could be the difference in winning
or being an also ran.
Forum whore
You can get good results by 'pulsing' the pedal (I am assuming you are tig welding). If done correctly your weld will look like a stack of pennys pushed over.Originally Posted by peewee
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
I probably qualified as at least equal smartest guy on page 1 of this threat. Think I've been relegated to dumbshit by now, but we're all enjoying where this goes.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Forum whore
Pulsed TIG will do nothing much to help distortion.
What it does do is allow you to use a higher base amperage to speed up the M/min welding rate and not create holes or
a big lumpy mess on the inside of a pipe for example.
The jump in amps allows you to move quickly, then the amps drop off, stopping the weld pool from getting to large.
It creates the scallop effect without you having to pulse the pedal, or move the tungsten back and forth to make a "pattern ", that looks nice.
Cold wire over TIG is by far the best method to weld thin sheet, but is idiotically expensive, and takes alot of slow practice to master.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
elbow down dreamer
Agreed. Feel like a 12 year old when reading some of these posts haha. However, I feel like after reading this thread more times than I'm embarrassed to say, I feel like I have a really strong theoretical knowledge of race 2 strokes. But I have stuff all practical modifying experience so far. Hoping my RSGP125 bucket will teach me more practically. For now I'm just hyped to be a part of one of the best lectures on tuning on the internet!
As one of the many side discussions going on in this thread:
Suggestions on a very good base motor for a freetech 50 bike? The Derbi 50 and AM6 are common but there has to be better alternatives?
50cc, 6 gears, unleaded fuel, no super to turbos, pretty simple rules really. Maybe a MX engine?
Frits, Wob any suggestions?
Hardcore Biker
Peewee, you asked about peening the bead (you wrote "pinging" but I assume you meant what I know as peening), and yeah, that's always a stress reliever (though it is unlikely to remove visible distortion). The metallurgists say you want to mostly concentrate on the outer edges of the bead, more than the center of it. There's a device called a needle-scaler, usually air-powered though sometimes electric, which is ordinarily used mainly for fast removal of slag during stick-welding. But if you take the needles out and round off their working ends, the tool then becomes good for bead-peening.
You're right about sequencing the weld, and dividing the circle into four (eight, if there's room) segments and welding them criss-cross fashion, another technique worked out long ago by the metallurgists.
You're having a blast with that new TIG machine; cool!!!! I can't say anything from personal experience about pulse and so forth, because my poor old transformer TIG welder pre-dates not only inverters but square-wave, too.
Anorak
threat?
Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
Hardcore Biker
Newer Ktm sx50 has a great engine, probably expensive.
Hardcore Biker
threat?
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Ahh shit, hp tiblet spill chucker.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Anorak
There is quite a few around, they will be cheaper here when they bring in a new updated design. The SX50 cylinders bolt on to KTM65 bottom end giving you a triple port case reed in a modern configuration. The Std KTM50SX is a slipper clutch one speed. (It would probably faster around a Kart kart as an slipper auto though)
Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
Forum whore
the combo getting a bit of a fan base in the UK freetech is KTM65 bottom end with KTM50 cylinder, lots of easy horsepower to be had.
Beaten by Husa as usual
Anorak
I forgot to add the earlier KTM50's 2002-2008 cylinders mount onto the corosponding earlier (BETA) engines KTM65 as well, there are plenty of them about as they are not the latest model anymore.
They both have the neatest tiny sellectra ignition.
Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
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