ESE's works engine tuner

[Tim Ey]

I got two questions for the Ignitec Freaks here:

1. Do you also get problems when using "Special" Settings for the bike? I think I killed 1-2 pistons with it &
I stopped using that now and returned to "Classic".

2. Ignitec claims that you need more than 14 Volts when revving over 12krpm. The control unit will be happy with 18 Volts. Battery can be build easily or even taken from a power tool (with balancer inside).
Are there any proper AC-DC regulators that are able to provide 18 Volts?
Or do I need to take a 12V & a 6V regulator and work with two batteries in serie?

[Mike Fisher]

I havn't run them yet but I've got 14.8V LiPo radio control batteries to try in a total loss Ignitech set up.

[F5 Dave]

I'd peak power at 13 and overrev from there. Running a convential cheapo rec reg and capacitor I could all gears it through the gears on the dyno reading a meter (or pc) and the Voltage would not drop.
CR250 alternator was enough to drive as well as an electric water pump. Are you over thinking things?

[wobbly]

Tim Ey , why would you need Special , unless running odd numbers of lobes to use a unusual rotor setup.
You need this when cutting one lobe in 1/2 for example to get proper twin fire on a RD/LC/RZ/Banshee
The Ignitech will be just fine on a 14.2 V normal charging system as long as you run the Ignitech coil , or even better the RGV/ RS Aprilia 125/250 coils.
Going to 15,000 with 14.2V charging from a CR250 stator was no issue on a KZ.
But for example the Ignitech will not function at all with a stock Honda RS125 coil as the primary resistance and inductance need to match the DC-DC Converter
and Honda did the matching in a different way.
I have run 15.6V Lith/Ion lightweight batteries to 14,000 on a twin with no issues.
I think you get a warning on screen over 16V and it will auto shut down above this level - 18V is impossible , or it used to be , maybe this has changed recently.

[flyonly]

Tim Ey , why would you need Special , unless running odd numbers of lobes to use a unusual rotor setup.
You need this when cutting one lobe in 1/2 for example to get proper twin fire on a RD/LC/RZ/Banshee
The Ignitech will be just fine on a 14.2 V normal charging system as long as you run the Ignitech coil , or even better the RGV/ RS Aprilia 125/250 coils.
For example the Ignitech will not function at all with a stock Honda RS125 coil as the primary resistance and inductance need to match the DC-DC Converter
and Honda did the matching in a different way.
I have run 15.6V Lith/Ion lightweight batteries with no issues.
I think you get a warning on screen over 16V and it will auto shut down above this level - 18V is impossible.

Woobly.

Is there a source for coils you could recommend. I am currently running total loss and the coil that came with the KTM


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[wobbly]

The RGV/RS Aprilia are available from bike wreakers , but are cheep as chips on Ebay.

[porttiming124]

Hello everyone.
I have an exhaust runner to fill in the bottom part along the entire length.
My runner is quite long (72mm) and it's difficult to access it with the tig torch.
I think I've already read Woobly or someone else recommending Hobart brazing rods as an alternative.
Can someone enlighten me on this please?

[Tim Ey]

Are you over thinking things?

Yes. Most probably.


The manual states that the ECU operates from 8-18V and shuts down above 20V.

I never got the issue that the engine did not want to rev further. Just wanted to see if anyone got other information. Thanks!


Wob: To be honest, I do not know how I got to special settings. I am using Ignitec stuff since more than 10 years. Looking back I apparently started using "special" three years ago. I do not know how I ended up there. Back to classic it is!

RGV/RS250 ignition coil is a must have.

[wobbly]

So no hand drawn Dyno files or CAD renditions - here is the real thing finally.
3XV going onto a 4DP , Ive got the hardware , now the hours of epoxy and porting starts.
Then onto the dyno to do the changes needed for the PV ,PJ and Ignition to suit the EngMod cylinders and pipes.

[wobbly]

You can use aluminum stick welding repair rods to fill in a duct - its easy as its so small and you can see what's happening.
But the trick is to angle the part such that the liquid flux material runs away from the new weld pool , this helps prevent porous holes in the filled in material.
Of course vapor blasting and or chemical etching away any old oil contaminants is mandatory.
Even then its not what you would call " pretty " but hey its supposed to make Hp not win a beauty contest.

[porttiming124]

You can use aluminum stick welding repair rods to fill in a duct - its easy as its so small and you can see what's happening.
But the trick is to angle the part such that the liquid flux material runs away from the new weld pool , this helps prevent porous holes in the filled in material.
Of course vapor blasting and or chemical etching away any old oil contaminants is mandatory.
Even then its not what you would call " pretty " but hey its supposed to make Hp not win a beauty contest.

I just had the nichasyl removed from them, they are very clean. Thanks Woobly for the recommendations.

[41juergen]

So no hand drawn Dyno files or CAD renditions - here is the real thing finally.
3XV going onto a 4DP , Ive got the hardware , now the hours of epoxy and porting starts.
Then onto the dyno to do the changes needed for the PV ,PJ and Ignition to suit the EngMod cylinders and pipes.

Looking forward to see the results!
BTW: I'm prepraring 3MA barrels with the same idea now, let's see how this will work out...

[wobbly]

41jueurgen - I did look at the 3MA but the boost port is miles too wide and way below BDC , also wasnt sure as its fitted backwards if the stud pattern is the same as 3YL/4DP and if the cylinder bore
is Desaxe offset.