ESE's works engine tuner

[TZ350]

So that'll be a 500 V4 when finished?

Yes and low 20's race winning hp ..... we are reaching for the stars don't you know.

[Yow Ling]

Attachment 263477

And Bucket, the "Industrious Man" is busy working on cylinders.

SO the question is are these ported to the NTSC standard?
(never twice the same cylinder)

or are you guys flasher than that?

[husaberg]

And Bucket, the "Industrious Man" is busy working on cylinders.

Assuming you were to cut the chassis (I would build a Spine frame myself)
I would remove the whole curved section. Then replace it with a straight section as you have ample room around the sides of the cylinder even if the means lowering the engine to clear.

Yeah then i would also tilt the engine forward so then 2 birds one stone.

Well actually four birds as the pipe run will be less in the way of the Tyre as well as well as the weight further forward.

What ever you do make sure, you simulate the full movement of suspension for the front. (i know you will Rob)

If the chassis was cleaved at the std weld line in the spars, you could install a whole front spar and steering head section.
That way if need be you would be able to put it back to Std if you ever wanted to.

BTW I did some real quick calculations and i also think you will need to drop your fork offset by 20-25mm to achieve the numbers Frits was mentioning. with regards to Rake and Trail. (20 degs and 85-95mm trail) Which would mean trailbike like yokes.

[wobbly]

Before you get all out of control, consider a couple of factoids.
Turning the cylinder around has alot of advantages in pipe shape as well as allowing easy forward movement of the whole engine - remember the RSW is better than the RSA for that reason alone..
Secondly, I have shown conclusively several times to disbelieving audiences that using a PV can double the power of a highly tuned 2T at the bottom of the useable range.
So - imagine the single exhaust GP125 with double the power at say 6000, then draw a straight line up to its 31 Hp peak at 12500.
A ATAC system can achieve a similar result,the trombone is capable as well,this system has been used in hydro racing forever ( remember Konig and the Kiwi ).
So getting a 4T killer setup is staring everyone in the face, you - meaning Rob et al, just need to commit to one approach and develop it.

[TZ350]

Turning the cylinder around has a lot of advantages in pipe shape as well as allowing easy forward movement of the whole engine - remember the RSW is better than the RSA for that reason alone.

Turning the cylinder around wont happen here but if I succumb and build the H2o version using a TF bottom end then yes definitely it will be a rear facing exhaust.

Secondly, I have shown conclusively several times to disbelieving audiences that using a PV can double the power of a highly tuned 2T at the bottom of the useable range.

As much as I would like one, the air cooled cylinder doesn’t lend itself easily to modification for a PV.

An ATAC system can achieve a similar result, the trombone is capable as well, this system has been used in hydro racing forever.

An ATAC system is on the cards especially if it can be used with a Trombone system.

So getting a 4T killer setup is staring everyone in the face, you - meaning Rob et al, just need to commit to one approach and develop it.

Too true, and is the reason I have stuck with the 125 air cooled and kept focused on engine development at the expense of other aspects of building a fast bike, like handling, but that needs attention now that we are making reasonable power.

Initially, changes will probable only amount to dropping the front, jacking the back and fitting a dicky looking tank and seat and maybe moving the engine forward 50mm.

Unfortunately progress in the workshop does not move along as fast as talk on the Internet. And anything that turns out to be good needs to be easily replicated for the other Team bikes.

So I will lay out the highlights of my engine development plan as a touch stone for when the talk wanders all over the shop and people think we are loosing our way.

And if anyone is interested enough they can tick the list off as we go along.

01) Adjust the timing on the triple port and compression ratio.
02) Re test with the RS pipe (a known quantity)
03) Repair and Retest with the Piranha pipe.
04) Repeat 1 to 3 until the power curve is what we want.
05) Develop a workable ignition curve.
06) Add anti knock to the ignition curve.
07) Test with a 30mm carb and if that makes significantly more power than the 24 then:-
08) Test with a Plenum. The plenum was an idea for getting around the restriction of a 24mm carb.
09) If the plenum shows real promise, develop it.
10) Try Water injection into the pipe.
11) Try Water injection through the carb.
12) Try our hand at a Trombone pipe.

More or less in that order.

And while I am doing this, get some track time, develop the handling, build a F5 bike and make several engines for other team members while earning a living.

[husaberg]

there is a good TV program on, I will come back to this....

is it Bean?

[Yow Ling]

Got a bit done on my GP100 bottom end tonight , cut off the old inlet stub and made a new one , its about 28 id, maybe ill take another mm out or offset the bore as im right up against the O ring on the valve cover.
Looking down the hole looks like there is a bit of coranary blockage to move out of the way






A different thing Ive been thinking of is det counter. I bought one of the knockmeter that Wob put us onto and its pretty cool. I got it with the switching to ground output so I can retard the Ignitech automatically, but I thought it would be good if it could also count the number of times it retards the ignition, I had a OmronH7EC counter in the drawer, if i connect its input on the retard signal it can count the dets just like a $1500 det counter, total investment for knockmeter counter and new knock sensor about $200

[TZ350]

Mr Yow Ling that looks pretty cool .... and I like the knock counter very much, clever idea.



We also found the best we could get with the std cover on the left was about 28mm.

Then machining the "O" ring part of the stub away and sleeving it we could get out to 30mm OK. For sealing without the "O" ring we made the sleeve a good fit in the clutch cover and a little longer than the original so it poked hard into the back of the carb rubber and a little Yama Bond smeared around the stub and clutch cover helped too.

On a couple of clutch covers we machined the hole bigger and cut a small champher for a 3mm "O" ring to go in and around the inlet stub so that the carb rubber squeezed it all up tight, I managed to get 34mm ID that way.



In opening the port window up we broke through and now glue the cases up before even starting to port them.



Std is 105mm the bigger ones are 113 and 117 diameter, I think the Aprilia RS was 127. We aim for 1-1.5mm clearance at the edge and 0.3-0.5mm clearance on the face with a 2mm sealing surface left above the inlet port itself.

With 34mm you need to increase the size of the rotary valve disk. Other wise you will have an inlet area larger than you can easily make the port window.

Anyone who wants to try a larger Suzuki GP100/125 RV can PM me for the Auto Cad file you will need for the Lazer cutter.



The cover on the right has had the "O" ring grove glued up and machined out for a bigger RV. And without an "O" ring, its a dodgy sealing job around the edge with Yama Bond.



The catch is the inner plates diameter is too small for a bigger RV.



So you need to fit a larger inner plate. And to get a really decent sized RV you need to make a new outer cover so it seals properly.

[jasonu]

What was that saying?-

Good luck TZ

We do it nice 'cause we do it twice...

[jasonu]

Then machining the "O" ring part of the stub away and sleeving it we could get out to 30mm OK. For sealing without the "O" ring we made the sleeve a good fit in the clutch cover and a little longer than the original so it poked hard into the back of the carb rubber and a little Yama Bond smeared around the stub and clutch cover helped too.

.

That is EXACTLY how I did my KE disk cover and it has never let me down.

[Farmaken]

A question for the panel :

Apart from being as close as pos. to the barrel, should an atac valve be positioned on the outside of the header bend or on the side/inside of the bend ?

gut feeling says outside might cause too much interference with gas flow - whadaya reckon ??

[TZ350]

A question for the panel :

Apart from being as close as pos. to the barrel, should an atac valve be positioned on the outside of the header bend or on the side/inside of the bend ?

gut feeling says outside might cause too much interference with gas flow - whadaya reckon ??

The only one I have seen in real life and all the pictures I have seen, have them on the outside, but it may be, just more convenient to fit them that way.

[wobbly]

If there is any way of getting the orifice on the inside of the bend I would say there would be some gain, as the bulk flow on the inside radius
would be less affected by the disruption.

[Farmaken]

Cheers Wobbly, that could prove a bit of a challenge but now I have a project for the weekend, eh !!!

[Farmaken]

Cheers Wobbly, that could prove a bit of a challenge but now I have a project for the weekend, eh !!!

Any suggestions on a suitable solenoid ?