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Thread: ESE's works engine tuner

  1. #12076
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    Chambers is getting his RG50 ready and fitting the new 24mm Tillotson HL360A carb.

  2. #12077
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    Quote Originally Posted by wobbly View Post
    The head studs are outside the diameter of the skull flange, and usually they pull the cover down hard enough to keep the crush on the insert as well as " bend " the
    cover enough to keep the outer O ring seal intact.
    A 2mm head O ring should have around 0.3mm crush, so the 0.1 would not cause any issue.The outer water O ring has virtually no pressure
    on it - well it shouldnt , anyway.
    I have done many TZ350 heads with the 0.1mm protrusion with no issues.
    While we're talking heads & leaking; I have an aircooled head I've converted to LC. I've porpoisely avoided welding in the chamber (or anywhere if I've been able to avoid it). Sadly there are a couple of pinholes exposed in the original casting once its been skimmed & reshaped. They lead through to the water chamber & pressurising the head in a bucket of water shows some tiny bubbles. Just on the edge of squish & just in the chamber.

    Do you think they will block with carbon? I can't see much volume escaping through such a tiny passage, but the pressure is considerably more than my testing pressure. That said, ring gap is vast by comparison.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
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  3. #12078
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    While we're talking heads & leaking; I have an aircooled head I've converted to LC. I've porpoisely avoided welding in the chamber (or anywhere if I've been able to avoid it). Sadly there are a couple of pinholes exposed in the original casting
    There's a process involving a sodium silicate resin and an autoclave that works well, but I don't know who might be doing it in NZ now.
    Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon

  4. #12079
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ocean1 View Post
    There's a process involving a sodium silicate resin and an autoclave that works well, but I don't know who might be doing it in NZ now.
    Sodium silicate "Water glass" is used to make sand casting cores solid, available cheap from pottery suppliers about $7:50 for 500mm $20 for 2 liters (also used to preserve eggs i think) add co2 and sets like concrete, baking in a dirty oven i understand does the same, don't know about the process of sealing heads though .......

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hCBRf...ailpage#t=127s
    2m:11s for the impatient.

    You can use other catalysts to set it off FERROSILICON etc

    Edit i think they also use sodium silicate to render engines totally useless at recycling.
    Often called liquid glass, sodium-silicate solution has been better known for being used to save motors rather than killing them: It is used to stop leaks in the gaskets that seal cylinder heads to engine blocks.

    At dealerships across America, mechanics accustomed to fixing engines are battling for the chance to ruin them. "Everybody wants to go first, so I'm probably going to have to make them draw straws," says Jim Burton of Randy Curnow Buick Pontiac GMC in Kansas City, Kan. As service manager, however, he might reserve that thrill for himself. "I can't wait," he says.

    Over the weekend, half a dozen mechanics gathered around three clunkers marked for death at Jim Clark Motors in Lawrence, Kan. As Loris Brubeck Jr., the dealership's president, held a stopwatch, the sodium-silicate solution took two minutes flat to kill a 2002 Ford Windstar, and just a few seconds more to kill a 1999 Jeep. But a 1988 Dodge van lasted more than six minutes.

    "Sometimes those old engines, they're the hardest to kill," says Mr. Brubeck.
    reading this i guess that is what a lot of the commercial sealers are made from
    Last edited by husaberg; 16th July 2013 at 15:57. Reason: added the engine killing article



    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  5. #12080
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    Actually I have some block sealer left over I used to treat my 496 as a precaution (as my original CPI block leaked), I heated it up in some water on the stove with solution inside & pressurised it with a hand pump.

    I do wonder if a pinhole would leak at all? But might do this as a matter of course. Thanks for the ideas guys.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
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  6. #12081
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henk View Post
    Are on Mylaps thanks to Tim

    http://www.mylaps.com/en/events/928592
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    AMCC round 1 results courtesy of David Diprose.

  7. #12082
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    I just love these Arrows.

    And Husa put me onto this Ariel Arrow tune up article
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Ariel Arrow 5.pdf   Ariel Arrow 1.pdf   Ariel Arrow 2.pdf   Ariel Arrow 3.pdf   Ariel Arrow 4.pdf  

  8. #12083
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    Actually I have some block sealer left over I used to treat my 496 as a precaution (as my original CPI block leaked), I heated it up in some water on the stove with solution inside & pressurised it with a hand pump.

    I do wonder if a pinhole would leak at all? But might do this as a matter of course. Thanks for the ideas guys.
    Why don't you just get it welded and re machined?

  9. #12084
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    Quote Originally Posted by jasonu View Post
    Why don't you just get it welded and re machined?
    Surely you don't mean using anything but composits in his motor?

  10. #12085
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    Quote Originally Posted by jasonu View Post
    Why don't you just get it welded and re machined?
    Because I've seen Honda metal turn to bubbles when I've tried that before. Casting metal is a pig but more so 70/80s Honda metal.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
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  11. #12086
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    Took a sneaky peak at TeeZee's special inlet, just to see if it was actually 24mm.

    It will be interesting to see how he fits a boost bottle in there, looks a bit tight.

  12. #12087
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    Actually I have some block sealer left over I used to treat my 496 as a precaution (as my original CPI block leaked), I heated it up in some water on the stove with solution inside & pressurised it with a hand pump.

    I do wonder if a pinhole would leak at all? But might do this as a matter of course. Thanks for the ideas guys.
    Dave - you shouldn't be overly worried about a pressure leak outward from the cylinder...Though it will blow all the water out....You should be bloody worried about finding the cylinder full of water after leaving it standing for a week. If it's still accessible from outside you could tap and fit a brass screw.

    It's only a matter of time before a bucket racer here in NZ makes a complete devcon barrel. This obsession with avoiding welding is a mystery to me.

  13. #12088
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    Quote Originally Posted by bucketracer View Post
    Attachment 285016

    Took a sneaky peak at TeeZee's special inlet, just to see if it was actually 24mm.

    It will be interesting to see how he fits a boost bottle in there, looks a bit tight.
    I am no engineer, but isn't that 24.1mm lol..................
    Not that it matters, i hope she works well as expected.
    I just noticed the GP125 makes 30 hp vs the yz250's 47hp ish.

    Quote Originally Posted by TZ350 View Post
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    I just love these Arrows.

    And Husa put me onto this Ariel Arrow tune up article
    I read the other day that Herman Meiers Ariel 250 that i posted ages ago used lab crank seals supposedly they were worth a couple of HP on a 20 ish hp bike then he borrowed the idea from DKW. i will see if i can find the pic.
    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    Well I be buggered.



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  14. #12089
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumph View Post
    It's only a matter of time before a bucket racer here in NZ makes a complete devcon barrel. This obsession with avoiding welding is a mystery to me.
    You reckon it'd work? I would like to make a reed/crank ported GT125.

  15. #12090
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    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    I am no engineer, but isn't that 24.1mm lol..................
    Wooops ... TeeZee wont thank me for that. . ... parallax error maybe.

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