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Thread: ESE's works engine tuner

  1. #37576
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    Quote Originally Posted by dtenney View Post
    We run a mix of 80% castor and 20% Red Line synthetic in the methanol fuel for our race outboards. This mix works very well for us.
    950 ml (1 Quart) Bottle Of Morgan CoolPower Pink High Performance Castor / Synthetic Oil which can be blended with Methanol.
    Ok, so it is model RC oil, but it is caster plus synthetic. I think it is blended 80%/20%. I have used it before so it might be worth a re visit sometime.

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  2. #37577
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    Quote Originally Posted by dtenney View Post
    We run a mix of 80% castor and 20% Red Line synthetic in the methanol fuel for our race outboards. This mix works very well for us.
    Quote Originally Posted by TZ350 View Post
    950 ml (1 Quart) Bottle Of Morgan CoolPower Pink High Performance Castor / Synthetic Oil which can be blended with Methanol.
    Ok, so it is model RC oil, but it is caster plus synthetic. I think it is blended 80%/20%. I have used it before so it might be worth a re visit sometime.
    I wonder why anyone would mix lubricants. I can't see any reason, but maybe I'm missing something.

  3. #37578
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    A question for anyone:

    Am looking at detuning a 100 cc piston port kart engine. Essentially to be able to emulate the sort of characteristics of a trials bike or industrial engine…a plonker that idles smoothly and with a typically a really long parallel header pipe. Nice and happy around 2000 to 3000 rpm. We’re not out to win races.

    So, just wondering what durations might be appropriate for exhaust, transfer and inlet. And maybe chordal width.
    "Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm.”

  4. #37579
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    Quote Originally Posted by ken seeber View Post
    Am looking at detuning a 100 cc piston port kart engine. Essentially to be able to emulate the sort of characteristics of a trials bike or industrial engine…a plonker that idles smoothly and with a typically a really long parallel header pipe. Nice and happy around 2000 to 3000 rpm. We’re not out to win races..
    Don't worry Ken, you won't.

    Quote Originally Posted by ken seeber View Post
    So, just wondering what durations might be appropriate for exhaust, transfer and inlet. And maybe chordal width.
    The tamest 100cc piston port kart engines I know produce their maximum power at about 12.000 rpm, and you want yours to do so at about one-fifth of those revs.
    I'd leave the port widths alone but you'd need to reduce both the blowdown angle.area and the transfer angle.area to just 20% of their original values.
    That means a new cylinder because I can't see you lowering the ports on the original kart cylinder as much as you'd need to, with guestimated exhaust, transfer and inlet timings down to roughly 70°, 60° and 70°. Ridiculous values, I agree, but entirely in accordance with your wishes .
    You could also use the original cylinder, use filler (or in your special case a very long piston) to reduce the inlet timing and build a pipe five times its original length. It would be fun to watch. It just leaves me with one question: Why, in heaven's name??

  5. #37580
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    Quote Originally Posted by ken seeber View Post
    A question for anyone:

    Am looking at detuning a 100 cc piston port kart engine. Essentially to be able to emulate the sort of characteristics of a trials bike or industrial engine…a plonker that idles smoothly and with a typically a really long parallel header pipe. Nice and happy around 2000 to 3000 rpm. We’re not out to win races.

    So, just wondering what durations might be appropriate for exhaust, transfer and inlet. And maybe chordal width.
    Put a AG100 cylinder on it..



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  6. #37581
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    I second that, I might even have a spare.

  7. #37582
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frits Overmars View Post
    I wonder why anyone would mix lubricants. I can't see any reason, but maybe I'm missing something.
    I too wonder what it all means. Synthetic Oils fortified with Ester. It is common to see "Synthetic fortified with Ester". They sometimes even give a ratio, like 80/20.

    I thought Ester was a type of Caster oil and it was being mixed with Synthetic oil. To improve the properties of the Synthetic and make the expensive Caster go further.

    But I was mostly wrong, or at least it is more complex than I thought.

    Caster 927 is a
    Castor-based motor oil, fortified with ester 2.

    Oil, is a really interesting. There is plenty to learn about oil and blending, that is for sure........


    The lubricant industry generally treats synthetic esters as a monolithic class of Group V base oils with well-defined properties. It is not difficult to find a chart that lists esters as having “fair” hydrolytic stability, “good” biodegradability, “very good” lubricity, “excellent” oxidative stability and so on. Sometimes diesters and polyol esters are listed separately, but there is seldom further differentiation. However, the nature of esters defies such oversimplification. There are endless varieties of esters that can be built from commonly available acids and alcohols, so almost anything is possible.

    Figure 1. The esterification reaction
    Modern synthetic esters can be “tuned” to perform in nearly any environment and application. Whether you seek excellent hydrolytic stability, oxidative stability, biodegradability, lubricity, high viscosity index or low-temperature properties, all of these are possible with the right synthetic ester.
    Synthetic esters are manufactured from carboxylic acids and alcohols, which are very common chemical building blocks. They provide almost unlimited structural and performance possibilities.

  8. #37583
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    Quote Originally Posted by TZ350 View Post
    .

    Thanks for the heads up.

    Ok.... After a bit of a search, Motul are going out of the Motul micro 2T apparently. Anyway I could not find any. But I found Moto-1 stocks Maxima Caster 927 at $72/L including shipping. Expensive but I have some on the way so I can at least get started on the dyno with setting up the Kawasaki 250 post classic Road Racer.
    Makes me appreciate what we pay in the States, I just did a currency exchange rate 😳

    I also use the 727 with methanol and very pleased, you do need to be aware it can/does separate in rather cold temperatures.

    Something else to consider is to blend your own E85 (it’s too inconsistent at the pump here) the little bit of gas makes it MUCH easier to start initially cold and helps keep the oil suspended.

  9. #37584
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    Quote Originally Posted by ken seeber View Post
    A question for anyone:

    Am looking at detuning a 100 cc piston port kart engine. Essentially to be able to emulate the sort of characteristics of a trials bike or industrial engine…a plonker that idles smoothly and with a typically a really long parallel header pipe. Nice and happy around 2000 to 3000 rpm. We’re not out to win races.

    So, just wondering what durations might be appropriate for exhaust, transfer and inlet. And maybe chordal width.
    Don’t know if your piston skirt is long enough but how about a bit longer Rod to tame back some of the port timings?

    I had a GasGas trials bike and one of the most noticeable characteristics too me was the amount of flywheel the motor had, something else to consider…

  10. #37585
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    The idea of " mixing " differing chemical base oils is mainly to do with the characteristics of each type , in miscibility and test performance.
    Castor oils have real issues with staying suspended in any fuel that contains small amounts of moisture - this applies especially to AvGas as the high altitude freezing inhibitors in the fuel attract water , and to methanol
    as its naturally hydroscopic.
    Every older racer will have mixed R40 with acetone additive for this specific reason.

    Most synthetic based lubes have no issue with staying suspended , but the biggest difference between the two oils is the performance in the Falex/Timken tribology test machine.
    This is simply a spinning steel bar dipped in the test oil with a ball bearing being pressed into the rotating test piece with varying pressure.

    There are two differences in performance , the castors film strength is negligible , thus the ball breaks thru the oil film and metal to metal contact starts to wear the spinning bar at very low pressures.
    But the ensuing wear surface pattern is very smooth , due to castors chemical components , when they are broken down by heat and pressure are still inherently lubricants.
    Synthetics have in some cases well over 10X the film strength , and thus huge pressure is needed to begin metal contact wear.
    But as soon as the film is broken , the ball will actually tear material off the bar , as the oil , when it breaks down into its chemical components due to heat , has no lubricant properties at all.

    Castrol A747 was used by many race teams ( who had other name oil sponsors ) as it was one of the first mixed chemical based oils , and it worked superbly in super high temp situations that existed in engines
    using 130 Octane rocket fuel and 18:1 compression ratio's.
    Later when unleaded fuel was introduced in 98 it performed better when run rich , and pure synthetics became viable due to much less combustion temp breaking the oil down into its component parts.

    So in summary the idea of selective mixing is to maintain the smooth wear characteristic of bean oil , and then introduce the super high film strength capability of man made synthetics.
    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  11. #37586
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    So paraphrase does that mean in Robs situation with methanol cooling properties despite high compression ratios that any synthetic of reasonable quality with a dash of acetone for insurance would be quite acceptable?

    Was an interesting insight.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
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  12. #37587
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    Ok got the good oil and it has passed the solubility and suspension test. Glass Jar.

    Bikes on the dyno. Hopefully get to make some noise tonight. Probably wont get much further than sorting out basic jetting.

    Many thanks to DoldGuy who supplied me with a very nice 34mm carb for the Beast. Many thanks.

  13. #37588
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    Dave - from my own observation only , I believe that the temp of Methanol when run with very high compression ratios actually has a high burning phase of combustion temperature.
    To get the 125/250 engines , run in karts with Methanol in open class to live , we had to run very cold plugs to stop burning holes in pistons.
    But the high level of unburnt fuel mixture entering the pipe , from running way over stochiometric without power loss , gives low egt readings and thus needs a shorter tuned length.

    This is where the belief ( erroneous I think ) that Meth " burns " cold arose - sure the over rich mixture , and very high latent heat value is a godsend to Aircooled cylinders
    as it is able to make them react as though they were actually water cooled.

    The upshot of this factor is why the very old but well refined Shell M castor was used forever in Methanol engines.
    Motul Micro did take over somewhat in later years , but I have no idea what its basic composition is.
    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  14. #37589
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    Interesting. I have no meth experience except dynoing a horrible poison beltching Commando as a favour. Externally it was cool running.

    Rob, make sure you have next level ventilation ideally with extraction from pipe.

    This thing was next level as they had popped the pilots out. I convinced them to drill some and put back in. Next time it was only unbearable, which was a considerable improvement.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
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  15. #37590
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    Interesting. I have no meth experience
    lightbulb moment....


    Has anyone came across this company RAVENOL
    https://www.ravenol.de/en/properties...ebiet/motorrad
    They seem to have a shit ton of different products but i have never even heard of them


    https://www.tal-ko.com/online-shop/e...-oil-1lit.html
    320ml oil to 5 litres Super Unleaded E5 fuel. thats about 15:1 so its not 100:1 snakeoil

    Yes Castrol R40 and Shell M are great. It is what I used back in the 70's but they had a tendency to promote corrosion in the bearings even with purging.
    Rob mentioned about the corrosion with meth and shell M i assume that is not from any fault of the the oil or meth itself but the water the mixture had absorbed.



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