ESE's works engine tuner

[lohring]

Below is a stinger lambda adopter sent to me by Del a long time ago.

Lohring Miller

[SwePatrick]

The Lambda channel may have alot of data smoothing on it in the software.
This makes a huge difference to the Hp curve info , where you can have a dead smooth printout with hardly a bump anywhere , or a scattered trace with ups and downs over very short rpm intervals.
Lambda only reads the excess O2 in the combustion gas residuals , and this is then converted into a A/F ratio for ease of understanding , I dont think any fudge factor for the different fuel is needed.

I ´m very well aware of how an o2 sensor works, and it is because of this i know there is a problem.

I´m not asking for difference in fuels.
I´m asking for a general 'fudgefactor'.

[SwePatrick]

Below is a stinger lambda adopter sent to me by Del a long time ago.

Lohring Miller

Nice, it´s a unverisal one?
One size fits all?

[lohring]

You can change the rubber disk if you need to fit a larger stinger. Our stingers are around 1/2" OD Below is a pictire from the drawing file.

Lohring Miller

[lodgernz]

I have this Daytona cylinder for my NSR50 engine. It has auxiliary exhausts, but they are terrible.
They open at or earlier than the main port, but I'll be raising the main anyway, so that's not an issue.
I'm going to have the cylinder bored and replated after I've worked on it, so any mods are possible within the limitations of wall thickness etc.

My main problem is the poor placement and size of the aux ports, so I'm asking here for advice on how best to improve them

[wobbly]

Trust me , get the chrome off before you start , makes porting 100% easier.
Cant believe how bad those angles are , but here is a few pointers - most important is getting the A port front wall angled back.
Somewhat depends upon getting a piston pinned at the rear to get the B port wide enough with rear wall hooks in place.
I would go for reverse stagger scavenging , so you can leave the A port timing edge alone , and do an analysis on how much transfer STA you need to match the much bigger Ex STA.
As a guide you want as a minimum 1mm of height difference between the Aux and the main Ex.
What is the 37* angle for the boost , is that the floor inclination ?

[Frits Overmars]

Cant believe how bad those angles are , but here is a few pointers - most important is getting the A port front wall angled back.

My thoughts exactly. Maybe this can be of some help:

[lodgernz]

Trust me , get the chrome off before you start , makes porting 100% easier.
Cant believe how bad those angles are , but here is a few pointers - most important is getting the A port front wall angled back.
Somewhat depends upon getting a piston pinned at the rear to get the B port wide enough with rear wall hooks in place.
I would go for reverse stagger scavenging , so you can leave the A port timing edge alone , and do an analysis on how much transfer STA you need to match the much bigger Ex STA.
As a guide you want as a minimum 1mm of height difference between the Aux and the main Ex.
What is the 37* angle for the boost , is that the floor inclination ?

The boost port angle is the roof angle, so that needs to go to 56º.
I understand the transfer mods required, I was mainly wondering how to improve the tiny aux exhausts, so your diagram is a good guide.
Thank you Wobbly and Frits.

[Wos]

I have this Daytona cylinder for my NSR50 engine. It has auxiliary exhausts, but they are terrible.
They open at or earlier than the main port, but I'll be raising the main anyway, so that's not an issue.
I'm going to have the cylinder bored and replated after I've worked on it, so any mods are possible within the limitations of wall thickness etc.

My main problem is the poor placement and size of the aux ports, so I'm asking here for advice on how best to improve them

???
On the photo the upper side of exhaust Window...its radiuses look huge...!???

Good für ring life
Bad for blowdown

Proof it and use the exhaust advices from Frits

[lodgernz]

This is a nice restoration job by a Dutch enthusiast

[Strokerhaus]

Yes, I've heard of the company. Never dealt with them. I've been there with Villiers road boxes. An earlier 197 special split a 3 speed case - as you do. It finished up with a 4 speed box from a Greeves which took a bit of fettling to make fit. Lasted OK. I'll stick with the CR 4 speed for the moment. In it's class it's not a great handicap.
If a six speed falls into my hands, great. If not, I'm only doing it for fun.

Hi

I have just come across a DMW Hornet all in pieces with rebuilt Starmeker and 6 speed box, less front wheel, exhaust and one other thing, which I can remember but not a big item, I suspect you could get it for less than £4000 if you wanted it. Interested? If you are I will try to link you up with the owner.

[Grumph]

Hi

I have just come across a DMW Hornet all in pieces with rebuilt Starmeker and 6 speed box, less front wheel, exhaust and one other thing, which I can remember but not a big item, I suspect you could get it for less than £4000 if you wanted it. Interested? If you are I will try to link you up with the owner.

A kind thought - but freight to NZ would probably double the cost. I'll pass thanks.

[Niels Abildgaard]

I dreamt up a two stroke sidevalve concept 23 dec 2014 and now somebody has taken it up.
Could maybe have saved the Orbital thing.

https://www.modelenginemaker.com/ind...cseen.html#new

[TZ350]

TeeZee the bits are on the way to ESE , the carb as well , couldn't be arsed disassembling it.

Thanks Wob. The carb turned up today. That adjustable power jet looks very interesting. I will use it.



Now to see if I can find a way to fit the 4,2mm ID Dellorto float valve into the Mikuni carb. Replacing the Mikuni 3,3mm ID float valve.

The challenges are that the Dellorto float valve has a 8mm diameter thread and is 22,5mm long. The Mikuni has a 10mm thread and is 18,5mm long.



There might be more than one way to to do this. The Dellorto float valve needle is the same length as the Mikuni. I could open the 3,3mm ID Mikuni float valve body out to 4,5mm and use the Dellorto needle. There have been a few suggestions on here about improving the flow out of the Mikuni float valve body itself. And F5Daves suggestion of using a ball bearing ball and punching it to form the valve set seems to work. I have a few Mikuni float valves so it could be worth a try.

[Larry Wiechman]

https://www.freepatentsonline.com/3424431.pdf