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Thread: ESE's works engine tuner

  1. #40876
    Join Date
    11th May 2024 - 06:49
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    Full Custom 90cc 2 Stroke Road Racer
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    United States, CA
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    Curious if anyone here has any experience with 3d printing functional intake parts, reed valve boxes, reed valve bodies, carburetor mounting flanges, etc.

    Bonus points for experience with ethanol/methanol fuels using 3d printed intake parts.

    For a few reasons I am attempting to come up with a working solution for 3d printed reed boxes for my application.

    3-4 different carbon type filaments have been used in standard FDM style printers, and so far have failed pretty miserably.

    Following a thread from a few different manufacturers that are actually selling retail 3d printed intake parts, I have my latest round of test parts back, printed out of Nylon PA11 and Nylon PA12 (expirimenting between the two) printed on an HP MJF machine, the important distinction being that its not a filament deposition technology, but instead a "powder bed fusion" technology.

    Pictured below.

    The darker "flange" that bolts to the cylinder is Nylon PA11, the lighter reed box that bolts to the flange is Nylon PA12.

    Will post back with the results from testing these samples.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #40877
    Join Date
    13th April 2022 - 19:08
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    Florence, Italy
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    Quote Originally Posted by ApolloMotoMoto View Post
    Curious if anyone here has any experience with 3d printing functional intake parts, reed valve boxes, reed valve bodies, carburetor mounting flanges, etc.

    Bonus points for experience with ethanol/methanol fuels using 3d printed intake parts.

    For a few reasons I am attempting to come up with a working solution for 3d printed reed boxes for my application.

    3-4 different carbon type filaments have been used in standard FDM style printers, and so far have failed pretty miserably.

    Following a thread from a few different manufacturers that are actually selling retail 3d printed intake parts, I have my latest round of test parts back, printed out of Nylon PA11 and Nylon PA12 (expirimenting between the two) printed on an HP MJF machine, the important distinction being that its not a filament deposition technology, but instead a "powder bed fusion" technology.

    Pictured below.

    The darker "flange" that bolts to the cylinder is Nylon PA11, the lighter reed box that bolts to the flange is Nylon PA12.

    Will post back with the results from testing these samples.
    I regularly use MJF PA12 reed cages on my engines with no issues. The material is super strong and you can even make threads on it

  3. #40878
    Join Date
    16th November 2006 - 23:46
    Bike
    Husky TE310, 2 Buckets and a ZXR250C
    Location
    Lower Hutt
    Posts
    2,453
    Quote Originally Posted by ApolloMotoMoto View Post
    Curious if anyone here has any experience with 3d printing functional intake parts, reed valve boxes, reed valve bodies, carburetor mounting flanges, etc.

    Bonus points for experience with ethanol/methanol fuels using 3d printed intake parts.

    For a few reasons I am attempting to come up with a working solution for 3d printed reed boxes for my application.

    3-4 different carbon type filaments have been used in standard FDM style printers, and so far have failed pretty miserably.

    Following a thread from a few different manufacturers that are actually selling retail 3d printed intake parts, I have my latest round of test parts back, printed out of Nylon PA11 and Nylon PA12 (expirimenting between the two) printed on an HP MJF machine, the important distinction being that its not a filament deposition technology, but instead a "powder bed fusion" technology.

    Pictured below.

    The darker "flange" that bolts to the cylinder is Nylon PA11, the lighter reed box that bolts to the flange is Nylon PA12.

    Will post back with the results from testing these samples.

    Hey ya,

    I've just printed an airbox for our TST100 project. It took a bit of playing around but i have sucessfully printed PA6-CF and PPA-CF to a decent level on a consumer FDM printer (Creatliy K1 Max). I even had the lid off.
    Its actually pretty easy. Theres just one trick. Buy a filament dryer and dry the living shit out of it for a few days at the max temp (or around 80c if it goes that high). And print directly from the dryer after that.
    Another trick is that supports are quite hard to get off. Tree supports are a bit easier.
    I printed on a smooth bed with lots of glue stick.
    I just used pretty generic profiles in Orca for it, and it printed all good.

    Side note heres a little TST100 update : https://www.youtube.com/shorts/OlqkOsqxdw0


    This filament is the eSun PA-CF. But had similar results with other brands.
    Click image for larger version. 

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