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Thread: ESE's works engine tuner

  1. #41326
    Join Date
    11th May 2024 - 06:49
    Bike
    Full Custom 90cc 2 Stroke Road Racer
    Location
    United States, CA
    Posts
    82
    Quote Originally Posted by Vannik View Post
    Connected from home for the first time since mid November!
    Hoooray! Now its a "proper" homecoming

  2. #41327
    Join Date
    18th May 2007 - 20:23
    Bike
    RG50 and 76 Suzuki GP125 Buckets
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    10,564
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Was pretty happy with the way the Suzuki RG50 rotary valve conversion is going.

    The moth holes into the crankcase will get sealed up with some J-B Weld.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Everything was a neet fit.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    RG50, rotary valve and 26mm carburettor.

  3. #41328
    Join Date
    18th March 2004 - 17:38
    Bike
    1971 suzuki T350R,1980 suzuki GSX1100
    Location
    the best island
    Posts
    707
    I take it those are GP100/125 rotary valve parts? How are you going to drive the rotary valve between the carrier and the crankshaft? Are you going the sacrifice the taper part of a RG50 stator flywheel?
    Compare Pornography now to 50 years ago.
    Then extrapolate 50 years into the future.
    . . . That shit's Nasty.

  4. #41329
    Join Date
    18th May 2007 - 20:23
    Bike
    RG50 and 76 Suzuki GP125 Buckets
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    10,564
    Quote Originally Posted by diesel pig View Post
    I take it those are GP100/125 rotary valve parts? How are you going to drive the rotary valve between the carrier and the crankshaft? Are you going the sacrifice the taper part of a RG50 stator flywheel?
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Suzuki 125 RV Parts.jpg 
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ID:	357782 RG50 crankcase

    Yes, Suzuki GP100/125 rotary valve parts.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	AM6 Crank.jpg 
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ID:	357780 AM6

    This is an AM6 crank but the approach is the same with a RG50 one.

    The long stroke AM6 crank paired with an oversized cylinder can give you a 100 plus water cooled CC's in a light weight engine.

    20mm sleeve and step on the trigger to support the RV hub.

    The old flywheel hub is turned down to form the ignition trigger.

    The trigger does not have to be pulled up tight on the taper.

    The alloy cup pulls up against the end of the crank and just gently presses the trigger onto its taper so that it all comes apart again easily.

    The direction of crank rotation naturally tightens the nut holding the trigger.

    The crush from the "O" ring on the trigger is all that is needed to clamp the RV hub.

    5mm pin in the crank to drive the RV hub.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Ignition Trigger .jpg 
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ID:	357781 AM6

    The RG50 crank is a bit longer than the AM6 so needs the thread cut off the RG and a 6mm thread tapped in to hold the trigger in place.

    The RG crankcases without the crankcase reed and long rod leves an enormous cavity. No idea how much but there must be a lot more relative crankcase volume Than the Aprilia RSA125 had.

    I figure, so long as a bit of mixture makes it upstairs to light the fire and get the pipe working, pipe resonance will take it from there. The greater the crankcase volume the more mixture the pipe can suck upstairs to the cylinder. Only works on RV engines, reed engines need some crankcase compression pressure to close the reeds after the suction stroke.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Drive Side.jpg 
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    To fit the RG50 crankcase in a NF4 frame we mill 30mm of the drive side mount after booging up the inside with a bit of Knead-It. The conversion take about four big tubes.

    Team ESE still have not made an 50cc engine that is good as the better Dutch efforts, but we live in hope.

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