
My advice is to check the rules and read through them all.
This one might not be compatible with a completely freshly designed engine:
1.a Engines must be derived from non-competition motorcycles. Motocross, Road Racing, Enduro and Kart motors and
transmission parts are not permitted. There shall be no restriction on the make, type or design of carburettor, ignition,
exhaust, piston, cam, valve springs or cooling system except for class eligibility.
The rules can be found here:
https://mnz.co.nz
Appendix W is the current Miniture Road Race (Bucket) rules, but others are also relevant.
Also, speak to organisers; it's a lot easier to work it out before the project and build accordingly than to show up on race day with a bunch of conflict and disappointment.
Heinz Varieties
The component parts can be anything not manufactured for a race machine, ie those scooter/ small bike cylinders /cranks etc.
OR - completely home made, designed, built parts, even if they are commercially manufactured using sintered laser technology from the CAD files.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
Well you could throw a CX500 crankcase in the melt pot which does two things. Make it derived from a roax engine. And gets another maggot off the road so it doesn't become a sad cafe racer.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.

If I go to this effort I fully expect to be able to enter it.
Used to be, if it was home made, it was acceptable.
This will be completely home made, and or, none competitive parts.
Actually I (we) will start with a single cylinder, because I have a version of that under construction now, but 125, for Hustler class.
E10 is acceptable also I see. Designed so we can have both a 100 and a 125cc version.
I seem to recall a certain ConcoursdeDungHeap prize 🤔
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.

You have a good memory.
Are you suggesting my new build will be worthy of the same accolade?
Ill only be responsible for the engine design and build, others will be in charge of the real work, frame, tuning and fettling. So a good chance it might actually be competitive, perhaps.
Perhaps get you daughter or long suffering wife to sign off the aesthetics![]()
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
![]()
Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
Hi JVH,
Saw your project with the RD 125, interesting. Seems like you're primarily doing simulations (I'm not), and possibly making a new cylinder. However if your goal is 31 hp you can achieve that with fairly crude means, 199*ex and 130*tr as you mentioned will do it, or just copy any mid 80's mx cylinder, yz 125 carb&reeds and tuned pipe. Don't think you'll have any luck with Ex under 195*, which probably means a little over 10,000 rpm. As for your quest for ex sta, it is possible to make the original cylinder into a triple port -attachedpic of an unrefined job, but you'll get the idea.
Hi Andreas, thanks for the suggestion. After a long time, I’ve found that what works best for me is a main exhaust port height of 50% of the stroke, a 3-port exhaust, with a radial distance of 5° between the bridges of all ports.
Stagger between A, B and C (no-powervalve).
A step between the header and the cylinder outlet. Cylinder outlet exhaust duct oval, header inlet cylindrical.
Generate an FOS exhaust in Engmod and then split the diffuser into 3 parts and the rear cone into 3 parts as well.
Squish ratio approximately 50%.
Adjust the stinger and compression so that there is no detonation.
Run the simulation. Check the combustion efficiency and then enter that combustion efficiency into Engmod. Run the simulation again and retune the tuned length of the exhaust to the engine speed.
With very high exhaust timing, front-end power is lost. At 195°, that’s still manageable.
I also read somewhere that above 10K rpm the OEM crankshaft off an RD125LC can start to twist if you don’t weld/secure the pin. I’d rather not weld on a crankshaft.
With a no-powervalve engine, there’s always a big dip in Tubmax (begin powerband) regardless of the bore/stroke ratios.
Those are more or less my findings with an RD125LC.
Just to be clear. I’m just an amateur. These are my findings after years of asking questions here and there and trying to learn from people who are much smarter than me.
Designing a cylinder in SolidWorks has also presented its fair share of challenges in getting everything right, but I’m almost there.
Cheers,
Jan
It's a nice project, best of luck.
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