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Thread: ESE's works engine tuner

  1. #33511
    Join Date
    3rd May 2017 - 04:03
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    1997 Yamaha rd 350
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    Russia
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    139

    Need top end bearing advice. Wgat is better for performance and longevity

    Hello All

    I have pistons with 15mm crank pin and Suzuki AX con rods with d=18mm 18mm wide upper hole
    https://www.royalrods.com.tw/suzuki-...d/RS-3012.html

    Engine revs up to 8500 and have 15hp

    What is better
    - just put in gap 34 of 1.5mm needles as on outboards (gap about 0.024 needle to needle)
    - use 15x18x22 bearing cutting inside piston from 19 to 22.5 mm to fit it
    - make custom separator

  2. #33512
    Join Date
    10th February 2005 - 20:25
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    1944 RE 1
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    Auckland, New Zealand.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flettner View Post
    Ready to start, at last. Just got to sort through this LINK, so different to what Im used to, way more complicated than the Atom.
    Getting there! - You are going to overtake John Britten soon with your artistic exhaust efforts !
    Freedom of speech is important - but
    P.C. has destroyed our right to speak the truth.

  3. #33513
    Join Date
    8th February 2007 - 20:42
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    TZ400
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    tAURANGA
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    3,161
    Crowded needle roller small end bearings were discarded years ago, being only suitable for low reving boat and chainsaw use. They start to " skid " against each other and or the bearing surfaces causing heat related failure.
    Proper , caged small ends , are the only way to go as we now have no issues at all with reliability in this area.
    Modify the piston bosses to suit .
    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  4. #33514
    Join Date
    3rd May 2017 - 04:03
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    1997 Yamaha rd 350
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    Russia
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    139

    Top end bearins

    Quote Originally Posted by wobbly View Post
    Modify the piston bosses to suit .
    Thanks. Will think how use 14mm piston pins in 15mm holes or try use bearing with small 1.5mm diameter needles.
    Exist 15x18x22mm.

  5. #33515
    Join Date
    21st June 2012 - 14:20
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    1974 Yamaha RD250
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    Camden, S.C. USA
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    80
    That size is hard to find!
    Here is a double roller one for a Stihl chainsaw;
    https://www.huztl.net/Aftermarket-St...0-p372598.html

    Also INA bearing has one listed,but only 17mm wide;
    https://medias.schaeffler.com/medias...K*K15X18X17-TV

  6. #33516
    Join Date
    3rd May 2017 - 04:03
    Bike
    1997 Yamaha rd 350
    Location
    Russia
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    139

    Top end bearins

    Quote Originally Posted by 190mech View Post
    That size is hard to find!
    Also INA bearing has one listed,but only 17mm wide;
    https://medias.schaeffler.com/medias...K*K15X18X17-TV
    The second variant fit perfectly. Thanks for INA link.

    I consider as well use conrods with 20mm upper hole. But 15x20 bearings even more difficult to find.

  7. #33517
    Join Date
    11th November 2011 - 12:15
    Bike
    93 kx500
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    Aus
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    30
    Quote Originally Posted by jbiplane View Post
    The second variant fit perfectly. Thanks for INA link.

    I consider as well use conrods with 20mm upper hole. But 15x20 bearings even more difficult to find.

    From a pro-x catalogue YZ125 97/99 uses 15x20x18 LE bearing

  8. #33518
    Join Date
    12th February 2004 - 10:29
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    bucket FZR/MB100
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    Henderson, Waitakere
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flettner View Post
    Ready to start, at last. Just got to sort through this LINK, so different to what Im used to, way more complicated than the Atom.
    One wire at a time, one sensor at a time, one injector, and so on. As you have probably done before. Link's setup documents are pretty good I reckon. Same sort of thing as the Atom I would think, start at the top and work down. I'd be interested to come down and help but, you know. I bought a really good Weller soldering iron and a selection of tips. Small stack of wires and collection of heatshrink. I used some black braid to thread the wires through as I put the loom together on mine. I think it kept it reasonably tidy though it still turned into a birds nest at the main connector

  9. #33519
    Join Date
    18th May 2007 - 20:23
    Bike
    RG50 and 76 Suzuki GP125 Buckets
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    Auckland
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    9,956
    Quote Originally Posted by Brett S View Post
    From a pro-x catalogue YZ125 97/99 uses 15x20x18 LE bearing
    Wossner 15x20x17,8 Yamaha YZ125 LE bearing cage. About 8 Euro on Ebay. I use them in my 14,000 rpm NSR110cc beast.

  10. #33520
    Join Date
    3rd May 2017 - 04:03
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    1997 Yamaha rd 350
    Location
    Russia
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    139

    Top end bearins

    Thanks for advice related YZ125 top end bearings! Will definitelly get some.

  11. #33521
    Join Date
    12th March 2010 - 16:56
    Bike
    TT500 F9 Kawasaki EFI
    Location
    Hamilton New Zealand
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    Quote Originally Posted by speedpro View Post
    One wire at a time, one sensor at a time, one injector, and so on. As you have probably done before. Link's setup documents are pretty good I reckon. Same sort of thing as the Atom I would think, start at the top and work down. I'd be interested to come down and help but, you know. I bought a really good Weller soldering iron and a selection of tips. Small stack of wires and collection of heatshrink. I used some black braid to thread the wires through as I put the loom together on mine. I think it kept it reasonably tidy though it still turned into a birds nest at the main connector
    Yes slowly stepping through it. Its all comming back to me now. Usual problems, coolant leak all over the floor, fixed that, forgot to fit an oring. Gearbox full of oil, autolube full of oil, wait, where is the gearbox breather? You know silly little things. Now Im trying to kick it over, with this bastard left hand kick start, bad idea, its bloody awkward.
    So sooner or later its going to end up on the engine dyno, so it might be sooner, dyno is getting an electric start fitted. Idea is to take the rear wheel out and make a small carrier, chain to the rear axel then a sub chain to a set of bearings connected to the dyno via a universal drive shaft.
    It was going to happen anyway, just its bought forward now.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  12. #33522
    Join Date
    22nd November 2013 - 16:32
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    STRIKE trike & KTM300 EXC TPI
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    Perth, Western Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by ken seeber View Post
    WHY DO 2 STROKES BLOW SMOKE? (or do they just want lung cancer?)

    After seeing skywriting planes yesterday during the Australia Day celebrations, it got me thinking. They do it by injecting oil into the hot exhaust = incomplete combustion. I’m sure we have all chucked on an oil soaked rag or bit of paper onto a fire. If it is really soaked we see smoke. Less soaked = less smoke. Years ago at Orbital we ran a generous flow of oil into the intake of a 2 stroke 4 cyl engine carb at high load. No smoke.

    Can think of a couple of reasons for smoking, but based on the above, I’ll make the statement that a typical 2 stroke premix fuel (eg 25:1), if completely combusted, does not smoke, and, in the inverse, we get smoke.

    Some possible reasons being:

    1. One being the short circuiting of some of the charge, escaping out the exhaust and acting exactly like a skywriting plane. One test for this might be to run an engine on straight petrol, not withstanding that the petrol that has short circuited might smoke (a bit). Anyone want to give this a try, in the interests of science of course.
    2. Oil, possibly with some of the petrol lighter fractions evaporating off (due to the high engine internal temps), working its way up the bore around the piston skirt and ring and passing into the exhaust passages.
    3. An accumulation in the crankcase after draining down after stopping, either escaping into the exhaust directly or around the piston as above. Can be fully or partially eliminated by a draining circuit.
    4. Similar to the above, but an accumulation of oil after full or partially closed throttle on an overrun situation passing thru engine.
    5. An excess of oil being delivered to the engine, eg a separate pump controlled by a properly programmed ECU. My 300 EXC TPI is an excellent smoker at startup and low loads, either as a result of shit mapping or as per reason #3 above.
    6. Others?

    Gotta say that I have seen many (but not all) fast race bikes down the main straight and not blowing any smoke at all. Presumably this is because the plugging pulse is so strong that all the mixture that might pass out the cylinder into the exhaust passage is fully returned and fully combusted.

    It'd be nice to be able to stop it. Thoughts?
    Jeez Ken, nice post and you’ve got me thinking.

    On the basis of your points #2 & 3, I am going to try a drain circuit as in the sketch Essentially it is a gutter across the full width if the bottom of the exhaust port. To assist feeding into the gutter , the liner has been ground away to encourage any oil (or oil/fuel mix) to run into the gutter. From the bottom of the gutter, a small drilling will act as a drain. Perhaps a small valve in the drilling to be able to cut off any drain flow. The net positive exhaust system pressure should act as the propulsion force.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    What if it works and there is actually a flow? Well I reckon it’d be logical to just return it into the intake of the carb/throttle body. Keep the stuff active and not creeping into the hot exhaust the inevitable incomplete combustion = smoke.

    Have no idea, even if it actually works, of what would happen in a horizontal cylinder with an exh. port on top.

    So have put a gutter in the base of the exhaust of this Yamaha KT100J cylinder Used a Dremel #199 slot cutter, it’s around 3 mm deep * 2 mm wide. Bit shitty, as hard to get to. Still have to put in the actual drain hole, it will need some careful setting up to meet the gutter.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Oh shit, I forgot to put in the transfers….shouldn’t haven’t listened to Fletto…

    Further to this, I might also put in a crankcase drain. When we did the Orbital 3 cyl X engine, we did this, and manifolded the drained flow to enter the inlet above the reed valves of the “trailing” cylinder to enhance the pressure differential of the draining function.

    Hopefully should have it running in a few weeks…..more to come…..
    "Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm.”

  13. #33523
    Join Date
    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    RZ496/Street Triple R/GasGas/ etc etc
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    Wellington. . ok the hutt
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    17,671
    Quote Originally Posted by ken seeber View Post
    Jeez Ken, nice post and you’ve got me thinking.

    On the basis of your points #2 & 3, I am going to try a drain circuit as in the sketch Essentially it is a gutter across the full width if the bottom of the exhaust port. To assist feeding into the gutter , the liner has been ground away to encourage any oil (or oil/fuel mix) to run into the gutter. From the bottom of the gutter, a small drilling will act as a drain. Perhaps a small valve in the drilling to be able to cut off any drain flow. The net positive exhaust system pressure should act as the propulsion force.




    What if it works and there is actually a flow? Well I reckon it’d be logical to just return it into the intake of the carb/throttle body. Keep the stuff active and not creeping into the hot exhaust the inevitable incomplete combustion = smoke.

    Have no idea, even if it actually works, of what would happen in a horizontal cylinder with an exh. port on top.

    So have put a gutter in the base of the exhaust of this Yamaha KT100J cylinder Used a Dremel #199 slot cutter, it’s around 3 mm deep * 2 mm wide. Bit shitty, as hard to get to. Still have to put in the actual drain hole, it will need some careful setting up to meet the gutter.



    Oh shit, I forgot to put in the transfers….shouldn’t haven’t listened to Fletto…

    Further to this, I might also put in a crankcase drain. When we did the Orbital 3 cyl X engine, we did this, and manifolded the drained flow to enter the inlet above the reed valves of the “trailing” cylinder to enhance the pressure differential of the draining function.

    Hopefully should have it running in a few weeks…..more to come…..
    Jezsus. I'd generally thought you were the cleverest person on here, but I have no idea what you are on about.

    . . . Actually that doesn't change the original tenent.
    I've been told. Dreaming`s free.
    Think I'll go, back to sleep.
    Everybody listen, voices in my head
    Everybody listen, do yours say, what mine says?

  14. #33524
    Join Date
    4th December 2011 - 22:52
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    Yamaha XJ750 1982
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    South Africa
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    Quote Originally Posted by ken seeber View Post
    Further to this, I might also put in a crankcase drain. When we did the Orbital 3 cyl X engine, we did this, and manifolded the drained flow to enter the inlet above the reed valves of the “trailing” cylinder to enhance the pressure differential of the draining function.
    You do know Suzuki used to do this on their triples in the early 70's?

  15. #33525
    Join Date
    10th February 2005 - 20:25
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    1944 RE 1
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    Auckland, New Zealand.
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    2,002
    Sorry guys,
    I'll stick my neck out (and no doubt get my head chopped off!)
    Lets get out of the nasty habit of filling a large bulky exhaust chamber with fresh charge - in fact, why not get rid of the bloody chamber! - that's where all the smoke and oily shit comes from - we have to face facts that that is why the two stroke became unpopular in the first place and hasn't got a hope in hell of getting back again without acknowledgement of that fact - it needs a complete redesign.

    Why can't we stop using the exhaust as a supercharger when we can do any supercharging from the inlet side? - I acknowledge that this thread is mainly based on improving "normal" two strokes of course - that is fine and a great obsession to have and a lot of fun, but these machines are fast disappearing and soon we will have no "normal" two stroke motorcycles to improve the performance of!

    I don't normally contribute here but there have been plenty of weird and wonderful ideas coming from this thread and I'm sure there are plenty of enterprising guys contributing here who could come up with ideas to bring out the huge potential of this engine and so be able to discard all the offending things in the current models which quite frankly have almost made it a dead duck and which we have continually been making excuses for (is it now too late?)!
    Freedom of speech is important - but
    P.C. has destroyed our right to speak the truth.

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