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Thread: ESE's works engine tuner

  1. #32281
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    Hey! How did you get one not anodised Garish Red?
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  2. #32282
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    Hey! How did you get one not anodised Garish Red?
    I brought some with a plain finish from Wobbly for the Team ESE Bikes.

  3. #32283
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    Just found out that the Edding 3000 permanent marker has a 15mm diameter and a d12.7mmX3mm regress at the endcap.
    That might work out for some 15mm Clip fitting.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Probably some of you folks can make anything from it.

  4. #32284
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    27th October 2013 - 08:53
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    got a small update guys. after the local machinist was taking so long , i sent the cyls to another place thats a yami twin expert supposedly . still it was several weeks time but finally i have them back in my hands. top and bottom decks were machined flat and the bore is rough bore for now while i do the port grinding. unfortunately the machinist sort of stuffed the bores and went to 68mm (8gr heavier) instead of 66mm. so i have to relocate the ring peg once again and weld the hole in a new set of pistons. not the end of the world but a set back still. to keep the same pin height in 68mm diam and not go the blaster type piston, i had to use wsm. which i believe are rebadged wossner since the package says Germany. anyways the intake side has some small fingers hanging down, do you think theres any concearn they could break off or should i round those off alittle ?
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  5. #32285
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    so I started preparing the pistons today. a while back when working on the wisecos I discovered a very fast and good method of removing the ring pin. the dremel discs fit well in the groove and grind off the pin in seconds . if you try it, first practice on some old pistons to get familiar
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  6. #32286
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    11th November 2011 - 12:15
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    If you're going to grind out anti rotation pin with a dremel, put the piston in the lathe and the dremel in the tool post so you have full control to not hit the bottom of the ring land.

    Another option I've thought about but never done is to drill into the underside of the crown behind where the original pin ends and then push the pin in below ID of ring groove.

  7. #32287
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    PeeWee and Brett, I have tried before but made a mess of mine. So thanks for your great ideas about how to go about removing the pin.

  8. #32288
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Some interesting pictures scraped from Ken Seeber's FaceBook page.

  9. #32289
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brett S View Post
    If you're going to grind out anti rotation pin with a dremel, put the piston in the lathe and the dremel in the tool post so you have full control to not hit the bottom of the ring land.

    Another option I've thought about but never done is to drill into the underside of the crown behind where the original pin ends and then push the pin in below ID of ring groove.
    But don't turn lathe on, just rotate the piston in lathe by hand the few degrees needed

  10. #32290
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    Depending on the height of the groove and the thickness of the disc, you can also use several discs on top of each other. I used to glue paper with superglue to the top and bottom side of the discs to protect the groove a bit, but if you have a calm hand it should work out without this, also.

  11. #32291
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonny quest View Post
    But don't turn lathe on, just rotate the piston in lathe by hand the few degrees needed
    Sorry Yes don't turn lathe on.
    A little fixture like this is handy, you will have to machine the seat each time to ensure concentricity if using for squish area.
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  12. #32292
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    27th October 2013 - 08:53
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    i tried drilling the pin with all sorts of different bits in a drill press. regular drill bit, various carbide bits. mini dremel disc worked best and by far fastest method. this is just my conclusion. a small stiff fly cutter type of bit might work but i didnt have one. biggest problem i found is most bits i tried, just deflected sideways and buggered the ring groove. i had a fair bit of practice on old pistons. the main thing about dremel discs, do a few practice runs on junk pistons to ensure the groove doesnt get stuffed when its go time on the good pistons but dont over complicate it.

  13. #32293
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brett S View Post
    A little fixture like this is handy, you will have to machine the seat each time to ensure concentricity if using for squish area.
    The accuracy of this method depends on front and back of the piston skirt being equally long. And due to the conicity of the piston you cannot check this with a machinist square.
    Pistons with a desax้ pin bore, which occurs more often than you might think, won't help either.
    My approach for such operations: pull a piece of tight-fitting inner tube over the piston and gently (but not too gently; it's not your sister) clamp it in the lathe.
    This won't be sufficiently accurate for a complete ring groove fabrication, but it will do for the limited angle of rotation required to grind away the pin.

  14. #32294
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frits Overmars View Post
    block hook.
    Machinist square. Had to look it up. Block hook smells Dutch.

  15. #32295
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carel H View Post
    Machinist square. Had to look it up. Block hook smells Dutch.
    Dankjewel Carel. Tried to look it up but couldn't find it. Corrected it now .

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