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Thread: ESE's works engine tuner

  1. #33841
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    20th January 2010 - 14:41
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    Quote Originally Posted by lodgernz View Post
    husa, do you have any idea of a 6-speed box that would fit a gt100?
    Asking for a friend...
    gt100?.............
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    I reminder distinctly .




    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  2. #33842
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    Quote Originally Posted by lodgernz View Post
    Sorry, I thought you said it was a GT100
    it is now but as that's no such thing . It started as a gt125 twin
    i'm over buckets

  3. #33843
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    Don't mention the watercooled MB50 barrels.


    It's been so long ago I cant remember rightly who built that. Red leathers perhaps. I'm getting Phill Bird on the ouiji board, but I'm not even sure I can remember such a person so that's likely wrong.
    I've been told. Dreaming`s free.
    Think I'll go, back to sleep.
    Everybody listen, voices in my head
    Everybody listen, do yours say, what mine says?

  4. #33844
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    Don't mention the watercooled MB50 barrels.


    It's been so long ago I cant remember rightly who built that. Red leathers perhaps. I'm getting Phill Bird on the ouiji board, but I'm not even sure I can remember such a person so that's likely wrong.
    it was phil bird
    i'm over buckets

  5. #33845
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    Yes mb50 barrels . I remade the heads and ported the inlets think its got rg250 readvalves cut of and welded on the crankcase of the engine running the smaller nsr250 carbs. Still the best looking bucket engine built but the gearbox is not good
    i'm over buckets

  6. #33846
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    20th January 2010 - 14:41
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    Gt125 or X4 otherwise known as in japan RG125E gear ratios are
    3.00 1.812 1.250 1.000 0.875.



    the Gt125 had quite a long production run i would look at the parts fiches for gear ratio changes during its production run
    I know the GT250 and GT380 shared gearboxs so it not out of the realms of reality that the Gt gearbox was used in other models

    edit
    there is quite a few asumptions here but if the gt185 shares ratios with the 125 you have some gearing options so maybe close up the ratios
    The X5 version of the GT200 has very similar ratios it might be a co-incidence but
    2.91
    1.75
    1.25
    1.00
    0.875

    The Gt185 ratios are
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    https://www.oldjapanesebikes.com/mra...5man/index.php

    Funny Enough the exact same ratios and more importantly primary drive ratio is on a TS185N
    Transmission gear ratios:

    1st: 2.75:1 (33/12)
    2nd 1.81:1 (29/16)
    3rd 1.25:1 (25/20)
    4th 1.00:1 (23/23)
    5th 0.80:1 (20/25)
    Primary reduction ratio: 3.21:1 (61/19) (clutch and crankshaft)

    also going through the parts fiche on the GT185 shows the same gears part numbers were also used on other models
    from the DS 185to the TS125 and the RV125
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    now some of these used different ratios for other gears
    plus the rv itself has many ratios
    https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a...mission-rv125m
    https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a...mission-rv125k

    if you look through the parts fiches most will tell you the teeth for each main and countershaft gear.


    i also know at least one model of the TS125 ie the C and the N https://www.partzilla.com/product/su...e290cd2b7c79d4
    was available in 5 and 6 with the same cases. although this might be the later ones ( iam not a suzuki dude)
    there are a lot of ifs and asumptions in this info but its worth a poke around.
    i had a look but there is little to find for the GT125 itself.

    if 185 and x5 gears fit you can close up first and top for better ratios.

    Here are the dimensions for th gear shafts on the ts125 5 speed and the 5 speed TS185.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    http://84.22.143.158/files/%D0%A0%D1..._reparatie.pdf


    here is the later TS125ER style gear widths made for 6 speed i belive
    from memory Rob used the 6 speed in one version of the GP didnt he so maybe they are all the same gear shaft spacing
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by husaberg; 26th May 2020 at 23:28. Reason: found some stuff
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    I reminder distinctly .




    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  7. #33847
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    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    Gt125 or X4 otherwise known as in japan RG125E gear ratios are
    3.00 1.812 1.250 1.000 0.875.

    the Gt125 had quite a long production run i would look at the parts fiches for gear ratio changes during its production run
    I know the GT250 and GT380 shared gearboxs so it not out of the realms of reality that the Gt gearbox was used in other models
    Thanks Husa, good info, as always.

  8. #33848
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    If you take out the kickstart and idler gears you could probably fit a sixth gear pair in there. You might not be able to select or use them, but it could be comforting to know they are there.
    I've been told. Dreaming`s free.
    Think I'll go, back to sleep.
    Everybody listen, voices in my head
    Everybody listen, do yours say, what mine says?

  9. #33849
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    22nd November 2013 - 16:32
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    "Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm.

  10. #33850
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    It sounds like a very complex engine. The piped, crankcase compression two stroke engine is very simple, light, and inexpensive. With current fuel costs I can't see how improved efficiency would lower costs enough to be worthwhile. As a former owner of 3 different diesel cars in the 1980s, the improved mileage was nice, but not enough to justify the extra cost and hassle. An electric power plant should kill it in maintenance, and longevity.

    Lohring Miller

  11. #33851
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    27th October 2013 - 08:53
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    hey guys maybe somebody could find use in this. ive tried several ways to remove piston ring pegs but today ive found the best so far. just clamp the piston in a drill press and drill out the pin with a small carbide end mill. i used 1.58mm diam as that was very close to the peg diam but they make some down to .8mm diam. also it was 2flute center cutting that can make plunge cuts. i did four pegs in no time with one bit and it could still do many more pegs as it plenty sharp. theyre only $10 and high qaulity usa made. i got it here https://www.kodiakcuttingtools.com/
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  12. #33852
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    18th May 2007 - 20:23
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    Quote Originally Posted by peewee View Post
    hey guys maybe somebody could find use in this. https://www.kodiakcuttingtools.com/
    Thanks. that is a great find.

  13. #33853
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    20th January 2010 - 14:41
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    Quote Originally Posted by lodgernz View Post
    Thanks Husa, good info, as always.
    I found out a lot more stuff and added it above as well
    let me know what the GT125 primary ratio is and if the gear shafts are the same spacings

    okay here is the parts fiches for the Gt125 and the later X4
    https://www.npm.fi/fi/varaosa-luette.../10-vaihteisto
    https://www.npm.fi/fi/varaosa-luette.../10-vaihteisto


    There are part numbers that are clearly TS125 and TS185's in both.
    So i would be quite confident in saying you have some other parts that are compatible from the series of TS125 nd TS185 and GT185 right up until the TS125er and 185ER.
    somewhere in these you will find some better ratios
    As i said earlier a GT185 first and second are higher.
    if i was you, i'd go through the parts fiches for all the models i have mentions and put the number of teeth for each gear into a spreadsheet then check for gear changes in other years, in those same models as well.
    then find the best ratios to suit.
    You might even find you have the room to fit the 6 speed of the later TSER based models if you have the width.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mr bucketracer View Post
    Yes mb50 barrels . I remade the heads and ported the inlets think its got rg250 readvalves cut of and welded on the crankcase of the engine running the smaller nsr250 carbs. Still the best looking bucket engine built but the gearbox is not good
    https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/s...post1130333983
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    I reminder distinctly .




    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  14. #33854
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    19th June 2011 - 00:29
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    built some straight test pipes, and than made a curved version of the best one (the front one), but sadly lost some 13% power from straight to curved.

    from re-reading a lot of posts about pipes : still too sharp edged between cones I suppose ? the angles in the drawing are the cut-angles per cone, so the angle between cones is double. What would be the maximum angle between cones ?
    my problem is that I do not have a lot of space so the pipe is 1 big curve. the dash-dot lines are the boundaries in which the pipe needs to stay.

    would it be better if I devide the pipe in 3 parts : straight beginning (+/- up to difuser), a tight 180 curve with a lot of sections to keep angles between cones low containing+/- the difuser and than straight back with the belly/baffle , so that the 2 straights are paralel next to each other ? or is a tight 180 curve not good for power ?
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  15. #33855
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    8th February 2007 - 20:42
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    Several issues are apparent.The max 1/2 angle you can use is around 7* ie 14% when rotated 180* and this max applies well into the diffuser only.
    The straighter , for longer , you can make the header , the better. Also having the header turn sideways on the horizontal plane , causes a asymetric return wave shape at the port , upsetting the trapping efficiency big time.
    Most power is lost when having sudden angle cuts in the header , but every cut in the rear cone looses power as well.
    Also every weld should be hammered flat ( planished is the correct term I believe ), you can only get away with not doing this if you are back purging a SS or Ti pipe with lots of small angles , and max craftmanship welds.
    If you have the right software then one thing many people dont realise is that every join of two differing cones can be made as a cut/turn as well.
    This makes a big difference to how the pipe shape looks visually appealing , and can also help reduce the number of cuts made in each cone section.
    Having a U bend leading up to and including the mid section , and then angle cutting the rear cone join line is the best ( leaving the actual rear cone dead straight ), having tested all this in the very tight confines of multi cylinder Jetskis.
    Lastly , if the seagull shite welds are so bad on the outside you feel the need to grind them off , just imagine what sort of shit is happening on the inside.
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    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

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