What cylinder are you using, TZ350?
Compare Pornography now to 50 years ago.
Then extrapolate 50 years into the future.
. . . That shit's Nasty.
Um, have you not made a conventiinal boost port by cutting up to the two rear ports the and blocking the transfers from them?
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Here is the setup for Lambda used on the CR125 in SKUSA
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
Yes. It is also where the ignition trigger gets installed.
This is how I went about it.
I used all the rotary valve parts from a Suzuki GP125 and flywheel.
1) Salvage the crankshaft hub from an old flywheel.
2) Cut the thread off the end of the crankshaft.
3) Drill and tap the crankshaft for a M5 screw.
4) Machine the hub and crank flush. Then machine 0.005" five thou off the end of the crank to give some crush on the hub. You only just want it gently squeezed, just enough to hold it securely but easy to get off again.
5) Make a spacer with about 0.010" ten thou clearance between the hub and the rotary valve driving dog.
6) Insert a 2-3mm thick "O" ring in the face of the spacer to give it some crush on the RV driving dog.
7) The hub is keyed to the crankshaft. Screw a M3 dome head into the hub for the ignition trigger at the appropriate timing position.
8) Crush the dome head in a vice to collapse the Philips star. You need to do this so you don't get two ignition pulses close together. One from each side of the Philips dome head screw.
9) At TDC drill a 5mm hole in the crank shaft for the RV driving dog's driving pin. 5mm fitted the key way in my Suzuki RV driving dog. I cut an old drill bit down to use for the pin.
10) Used a short piece of hose and two hose clips to secure the carburetor to the inlet stub. I put a larger "O" ring inside the hose to prevent metal to metal vibration contact between the carb and stub.
I did this with my RG Reed valve conversion. Many years ago and cocked up as I made a mistake on the exhaust so i abandoned it. Just turned into a convential design. You would extend boost to gasket face (I did this on my case reed MB100 conversion).
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Foundry work, the sides go in last so as to be able to check all is in place.
Dear experts!
Which is minimum bridge of material between main exhaust and the auxiliary ports at a nikasil plated 40mm bore cylinder?
Does the minimum depend on bore size? On shape and cordal width of main?
How wide were the bridges for example in the rsa?
Is there a rule of thump for bridge on a FOS shape 70% cordal main Ex?
thanks a lot !
Grüße Wolfgang
3 millimeters
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
Hey wobbly,
Thanks for answering 😀
Do you talk from 125 cc...54 bore...rsa? 😀
Is there a corelation to other bores or technical datas? Cant belive 3 mm over all?
Another question to get a feeling what could be minimum bridge at main with auxiliary ports...
What is minimum rlieable coated surface width at a mid bridge on a butterfly ex port?
Tanks from germany to NZ 😉
Grüße Wolfgang
3mm is needed as a minimum to have sufficient load area supporting the ring face with lubrication.
This works in 125 and smaller cylinders - I have seen a 50cc race cylinder with 2mm Aux bridge widths and it wore away slots in the ring.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
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