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Thread: ESE's works engine tuner

  1. #33481
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    Quote Originally Posted by FRRRIOLI View Post
    Yesterday I bought the engmod2t software.
    Hi FRRRIOLI, welcome and its great to see you have got a copy of EngMod2T.

    There are some sample files that come with EngMod. What I often do is use them and make changes to suit the engine I am modelling.

    Each page of the 2T modeling program has an option to save the file with a different name. I do this first, then make changes to the new file. That way the original is preserved.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The EngineMod2T comes in four modules, as seen in the attached picture below. Step 1 is to create the model. Step 2 is to simulate the model and Steps 3 and 4 are to look at the results of the simulations.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #33482
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    2nd March 2013 - 15:04
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    Question about EngMod2T:
    In the reed valve screen, some of the data required is difficult to determine, or so it appears to me.
    For example, Young's Modulus and Density of petal material, and the node damping factors.
    I categorise my petals by the force required at the leading edge to open them to the stops.
    Is there any way I can use this data to answer the above questions?

  3. #33483
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    Hiya new guy. You won't be able to send a PM until you have a certain number of posts.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  4. #33484
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    CreizKopf

    Milling new piston for kreuzcopf engine (rougly Ryger)

    76mm external diameter.

    Hope with new pistons engine would start easier than now.

  5. #33485
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    Lodger - reed stiffness is one of the hardest elements to model correctly - mainly as its not possible to enter added backups ( continuously varying with lift ) influences on the petal action.
    In short the only way to do this , and get realistic results , is to use the modulus defaults - then adjust the petal thickness to get close to the recomended first mode rpm.
    Then watch the intake screen during a sim run.
    One of two scenarios will happen , if the input thickness is too thin , the petal tip will either hit the stop or overbend.
    In this case the lift height shown will vary hugely from one iteration to the next ie the output is unstable.
    If the thickness is too big , the max lift will be limited , and power drops due to insufficient curtain area.
    Max lift should generally be no more than 1/3 the free length.
    If you adjust the thickness to just short of hitting the stop , or use the 1/3 guide to be close to unstable , this will be the optimum petal stiffness .
    This method in reality only takes out any " bad " influence the reed may have on results - it doesnt tell you the optimum reed dimensions.
    So sadly , the only way to actually get the best reed setup is hours of dyno testing.
    Sim results dont show any output like using a gram scale to determine tip lift pull pressure.
    I use a small digital gram scale to point me in the right direction on stiffness when changing the main petals thickness and or backup pressure /length.
    Then going too stiff , will eventually limit top end , or going too soft will eventually ruin the mid.
    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  6. #33486
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    Thank you Wobbly. Good info.

  7. #33487
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    Sorry I cant help with the hours of dyno anymore, would have been a good way to self isolate in a safe smokey environment. Might attract attention though. Strangely those sheds it was housed in haven't been knocked down yet. Oh well.

    I think it's like 10 posts to get PM privilege .
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  8. #33488
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    Sorry I cant help with the hours of dyno anymore, would have been a good way to self isolate in a safe smokey environment. Might attract attention though. Strangely those sheds it was housed in haven't been knocked down yet. Oh well.
    Yes, having access to a dyno and to your expertise was a great privilege, and I'm eternally grateful. Pity it had to end
    Still, as you say, the cops would have been around in no time in this lockdown environment.

  9. #33489
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    2nd March 2013 - 15:04
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    I need advice again please 2T friends:

    My NS50F (same as NSR50, etc) has double-lipped seals on each end of the crank, like every other 2T, but on the right-hand (drive side) seal, one of the lips is Viton, the other isn't.
    My workshop manual helpfully gives no advice, but I suspect the Viton lip goes inwards since that side is more exposed to heat and fuel than the outside.
    I'd appreciate any confirmation or contrary opinion please.

  10. #33490
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    So how does this look as a two cone drive? Attached is a sketch of the components. I'm using a standard ball bearing between two aluminum cones. It rides on a carriage guided by a linear rail and adjusted with a screw. There's a slight interference fit between the cones and the bearing. The bearing is in the 1:1 position with an approximately 1.5:1 position close to the other end.

    Lohring Miller
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  11. #33491
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    Quote Originally Posted by lodgernz View Post
    I need advice again please 2T friends:

    My NS50F (same as NSR50, etc) has double-lipped seals on each end of the crank, like every other 2T, but on the right-hand (drive side) seal, one of the lips is Viton, the other isn't.
    My workshop manual helpfully gives no advice, but I suspect the Viton lip goes inwards since that side is more exposed to heat and fuel than the outside.
    I'd appreciate any confirmation or contrary opinion please.
    If one of the two lips has a spring, then this one is closer to the crank center.

  12. #33492
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    My experience with Yamaha RD and TZ crankshaft seals that had (I think it was Teflon) coated lips, was that the coated lip faced into the crank case.

    The Yamaha seals had springs on both lips. The mag side seal had Teflon on both lips and the drive side seal only had a Teflon lip on the crank case side. The drive side of the seal exposed to the gear box oil was a plain lip.

    I suspect the coating was to cope with the dirt and debris that gets blown through a road racing 2T crankcase. Whenever I took the cylinder off after a race there was a surprising amount of debris sitting at the bottom of the transfers.

  13. #33493
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    Quote Originally Posted by lohring View Post
    So how does this look as a two cone drive? Attached is a sketch of the components.
    This is very interesting. I have been following it on the Foundry thread.

  14. #33494
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haufen View Post
    If one of the two lips has a spring, then this one is closer to the crank center.
    Thanks Haufen, but both sides have springs.

    Quote Originally Posted by TZ350 View Post
    .
    My experience with Yamaha RD and TZ crankshaft seals that had (I think it was Teflon) coated lips, was that the coated lip faced into the crank case.
    The Yamaha seals had springs on both lips. The mag side seal had Teflon on both lips and the drive side seal only had a Teflon lip on the crank case side. The drive side of the seal exposed to the gear box oil was a plain lip.
    I suspect the coating was to cope with the dirt and debris that gets blown through a road racing 2T crankcase. Whenever I took the cylinder off after a race there was a surprising amount of debris sitting at the bottom of the transfers.
    Thanks TZ. What I suspected.
    My post was a bit wrong. I think the whole seal is Viton, and the coated lip is probably PTFE.
    Interesting that the mag side seal on the Honda has just plain lips. Maybe it's not OEM.

  15. #33495
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    Quote Originally Posted by lodgernz View Post
    I think the whole seal is Viton, and the coated lip is probably PTFE.
    Interesting that the mag side seal on the Honda has just plain lips. Maybe it's not OEM.
    I did not know Honda also had seals with coated lips. I thought it was just a Yamaha thing as my Kawasaki and Suzuki's did not have them.

    One of the issues I found with Yamaha coated seals was that they would curl up in the presence of Acetone. So when I ran my 50/50 mixtures of Acetone and Methanol I had to run Suzuki crank seals.

    It would probably be a good idea to soak the seals overnight in a jar of whatever fuel mix you are going to use, just to check the seals compatibility.

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