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Thread: ESE's works engine tuner

  1. #25771
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    22nd November 2013 - 16:32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumph View Post
    My suspicions lean toward faulty heat treatment leaving the small end brittle.
    Agreed. And for the actual eye of the rod to split as well is unusual. I've seen a few kart rods broken, but almost always thru the shank, not the eyes.

  2. #25772
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    Quote Originally Posted by ken seeber View Post
    Agreed. And for the actual eye of the rod to split as well is unusual. I've seen a few kart rods broken, but almost always thru the shank, not the eyes.
    +1 , not tempered properly, or not masked properly in hardening.

  3. #25773
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    13th June 2010 - 17:47
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    Quote Originally Posted by ken seeber View Post
    Agreed. And for the actual eye of the rod to split as well is unusual. I've seen a few kart rods broken, but almost always thru the shank, not the eyes.
    Yeah, I've broken as much or more stuff than most - but never seen a rod break out the small end.
    Since a good friend got a magnaflux setup, I've broken a lot less, LOL
    Reason is a tool - remember where you left it..... The late, great, John Clarke

  4. #25774
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    20th January 2010 - 14:41
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    Quote Originally Posted by RomeuPT View Post
    Hello.

    Squish clearance 1.2mm, with combustion chamber designed by me. Around 12:1 compression
    Cheers

    For squish to be effective it needs to be up close and personal
    They need to just kiss and end up just short of making intimate contact
    1.2mm clearance is not squish, its barely holding hands.
    More research required...

    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  5. #25775
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    14th April 2011 - 23:44
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    Quote Originally Posted by shnaggs View Post
    When you say you had trouble with the reed valve, do you mean you had trouble with it repeating on the dyno? Or trouble trying to get power out of it?
    Of course the reed valve is a big obstruction for inlet flow.....
    While a rotary valve is not!
    And when dyno testing the reeds keep breaking, costs you half of your time.....
    The rubber detaches itself from the reed case after some time.
    I really HATED it!!!!

  6. #25776
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    4th June 2013 - 10:03
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    Here's a broken small end, with fatigue crack:

    http://products.asminternational.org...rd=729&search=

    No special equipment required to see the fatigue surface.

  7. #25777
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    I looked at that broken motor and "my" immediate thought was that it had the tits revved off it, speaking from experience with such disasters. The broken little end need not have been due to any sort of flaw. I've smashed a 4-stroke rod in such a way on a roller crank type engine and I've completely smashed the little end on one 2-stroke, not to mention giving the rod 2 90-degree bends and a twist, and broken chunks off a couple of other little ends.

  8. #25778
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    18th May 2007 - 20:23
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    Quote Originally Posted by RomeuPT View Post
    Broken Rod.jpg

    ... the small end top part of the rod blown up in the first miles of running in (claimed by the owner). He also says that there wasn't any strange noise on the engine before the "tic-tack and blow".
    After all your work, I am sorry to see the rod failure. I had something similar with a cast piston which fell apart when it was revved well past its normal range. The only warning was a little tinkle in the expansion chamber which I assume was bits of piston, I got the clutch in just before the engine beat itself to death.

    The end of my rod was missing too and the pin was split lengthwise into several bits, all the bottom of the piston below the rings was missing and funnily enough the piston crown was still in the bore and from the top it looked as if nothing was wrong.

    Quote Originally Posted by RomeuPT View Post
    Head Shape.jpg

    ... an engine, that had several people making stuff for it here in Portugal,
    I am very interested in the head shape, it is hard to tell but are the sides straight bath tub like or curved like a toroidal? I ask because one I made recently looks similar and I would be interested in your impressions about yours.
    - Team ESE -



  9. #25779
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    28th March 2013 - 04:29
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    Thanks all of you for replys.

    Quote Originally Posted by TZ350 View Post
    After all your work, I am sorry to see the rod failure. I had something similar with a cast piston which fell apart when it was revved well past its normal range. The only warning was a little tinkle in the expansion chamber which I assume was bits of piston, I got the clutch in just before the engine beat itself to death.

    The end of my rod was missing too and the pin was split lengthwise into several bits, all the bottom of the piston below the rings was missing and funnily enough the piston crown was still in the bore and from the top it looked as if nothing was wrong.



    I am very interested in the head shape, it is hard to tell but are the sides straight bath tub like or curved like a toroidal? I ask because one I made recently looks similar and I would be interested in your impressions about yours.
    Head shape has no logic, its just the athena piston is 66 and many dt users just fit it with a standard head (56mm) so the flat part is to make sure even when the user is stupid it will not be a big problem.

    Cheers

  10. #25780
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    30th April 2011 - 04:57
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamathi View Post
    Transfer ducts.

    Many transfer ducts with small differences were tried.
    We found more power by enlarging the A-port in the direction of the exhaust.
    Only the lower half, but it was important to give the A-duct an inclination away from the exhaust!
    The ducts were very conical, the smallest point being the port.
    In and outside walls of the ducts had a constant radius from top to bottom.
    The flow remained attached to the inside radius and so cooled the piston and eliminated detonation.
    Flow bench testing and the Jante type testing proved useless for power improvement.
    Giving the rear side of the B-duct an inclination versus the middle of the cylinder gave a big improvemet
    Jan, how were you able to know when the flow was attaching or not to the transfer walls?

  11. #25781
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    13th April 2009 - 22:30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haufen View Post

    Do you remember the difference between both of the A-port variations from the picture? Which was better, version A or version B?
    Attachment 330106
    Have I missed the answer to this ?

    Also what were the timings of the ports and roof angles.

    Thanks Wallace.
    ........Rules are for fools and a guide for the wise ..............

    http://www.marshland.co.nz

  12. #25782
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    Quote Originally Posted by marsheng View Post
    Have I missed the answer to this ?
    Yes you have.
    Quote Originally Posted by jamathi View Post
    Version A was the best.
    Also what were the timings of the ports and roof angles.
    The drawing shown by Jan in post #25655 showed an elder type RSW cylinder. Here are the RSA values.
    A-ports timing 130°, roof angle 25°
    B-ports timing 132°, roof angle 10°
    C-port  timing 132°, roof angle 50°

  13. #25783
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    20th April 2011 - 08:45
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    Some wishful thinking:
    KTM dream machine.jpg

    And some miraculous saving:
    https://www.facebook.com/MotoGP/vide...5598630555769/

  14. #25784
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    26th April 2013 - 21:55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frits Overmars View Post
    Some wishful thinking:
    KTM dream machine.jpg
    That is a nice concept of a KTM 2 stroke roadbike, based on the 300 cc enduro engine ? Probably the 2018 version with injection in the transfers ?

  15. #25785
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    8th December 2014 - 14:39
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    Frits:
    It looks like the guy fell asleep! Mesmerized maybe?

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