Rebuilding a Thread (alloy)

**FzerozeroT** · 12th February 2005, 13:55

My race van has shit itself majorly, went for a warrant and it failed because of tints on front windows, too low and an oil leak, figured I'd have to change the oil anyway, after filter came off I looked at the centre spindle (oil into filter?) and thought "that looks a bit worn" but when I put the new filter back on it seated ok by hand, filled with oil, started engine, CLUNK! WTF turn off van and look at the puddle of oil spreading out under drivers window. "YOU CUNT!" now I know why the guy was trying to get rid of it, If anyone has dealings with

Daniel Legg of Te Awamutu don't trust the slimy bastard.

I've tried an Araldite/Gasket Goo repair

but that came off in 1/2 second flat.

Can I cut a new thread into the spindle and then turn a helicoil onto it to build it back up? how thin can I make that spindle before the oil pressure will blow the whole thing off? Does anyone know the intracacies of a 1995 Misti L300 2.5 Turbo Diesel to know if where the oil filter goes is moulded into the block or can it be replaced?:spudwhat:

**Rainbow Wizard** · 12th February 2005, 14:50

Originally Posted by FzerozeroT

Can I cut a new thread into the spindle and then turn a helicoil onto it to build it back up? how thin can I make that spindle before the oil pressure will blow the whole thing off? Does anyone know the intracacies of a 1995 Misti L300 2.5 Turbo Diesel to know if where the oil filter goes is moulded into the block or can it be replaced?

My mechanic says he can't see how the thread in the block could get stripped, maybe you need to replace the hollow spindle if that threads knackered. He says there's not that much weight on the thread from fitting the filter and maybe you got the wrong filter.

I have very successfully used Loctite 480 which is a rubber filled version, it is more tenacious and handles the heat. You have to have a clean surface for it to bond but DO NOT use it on the thread that the filter screws ONto or you'll never get it off.

**Motu** · 12th February 2005, 15:16

Don't quite know what you got there - a 4D56T takes a Z313 filter,it screws onto a steel nipple that is screwed into the cast iron block,no alloy in sight.I've never seen a filter nipple stripped,but I've seen them cross threaded,and also damaged from fitting the wrong filter with incorrect thread.

I'd say when you have removed the old filter,the sealing ring has stayed on the block and you have fitted a new filter and sealing ring,over the old ring,this has blown out...and maybe the filter blown off and damaged the thread.Make sure you get a Z313,oil the sealing ring,and check the block to make sure it is just clean steel.

**FzerozeroT** · 13th February 2005, 07:59

cast iron, wow, didn't think that stuff existed anymore :P

ok, it is the cast iron part. but as you can see from the pic, the thread is stripped pretty badly, I think this is where the oil leak was coming from that it failed it's warrant, I don't know how he got it to stay on there but if i can do the same I'd be pretty happy. and i did clean the face that the oil ring goes on, and wet the O ring, and had the filter half full of oil.

**FzerozeroT** · 13th February 2005, 08:04

ok, the JPEG compression makes the pic look like shit, but theres no way that I'm going to get a filter to stay on there as is. how much give is there in cast iron? what if i just beat the end of the threaded piece in with a bit of pipe to expand it and then cross thread it on? I only need to get 12 months service out of this van to pay itself off. BTW it has 451k on the clock.

**Motu** · 13th February 2005, 08:55

It does look like alloy eh? You may have a pancake oil cooler,pretty common on Jap diesels,but the 4D56 usualy runs a seperate cooler.You should be able to get this off the block easily - I'd get a replacment first so you see how it fits.

[edit] Duh - just had a look at my Pajero and it has a complex alloy housing for the seperate cooler,yesterday I was looking at my old block out of an L200 which had the filter straight on ther block.

**FzerozeroT** · 13th February 2005, 10:13

is the L200 a turbo? is that mitsubishis quick add on for turbo vehicles? so if it is alloy what now? how much do you think i would pay for a (oil cooler transfer housing?) that thing?

**Motu** · 13th February 2005, 10:24

The other motor is a non turbo,but came out of a turbo Pajero,which means it's out of something else originaly,L200/300.Nearly all turbos will have some form of oil cooler,the Pajero runs an external cooler.I'll do some reshearch for you tomorrow.

**FzerozeroT** · 13th February 2005, 11:52

after seeing you write z313 i thought, yeah thats what i thought too, repco gave me a rz313, i had a quick look in the dark and they looked the same so i thought what the hell, R must be for repco. had a proper look today and whoa back, the thread depth from the gasket is different, and the hole that the oil feed goes into is a different size. I storm down to Repco with out doing any research (as angry young men do) and started arguing with the guy behind the counter, he was adamant that it was the same filter, but as I got redder and redder (yes i can get even redder than normal) he thought "i really don't want to be pulling that filter out of my ass for lunch" and so he gave me a number to ring in auckland for ryco filters (manufacturers). on th eway home I stopped in super cheap and checked out the Fram and Valvoline filters, my bad, seems that the one that came off the van is the oddball filter

So what do you think my chances are of putting a large bolt or something in the thread and stretching that part of the filter outwards so that it becomes approximately level with the gasket?(I know that means bending the internal meshes etc as well) i think that then it would have enough thread to then seat well onto, as the guy before me obviously searched around for a filter that was manufactured that way.