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Thread: Does warranty cover fork seals?

  1. #16
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    13th September 2005 - 18:20
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    I think you'll find that's just the dust seals, not the oil seals, which also have a dust wiper on them as well.
    If it wasn't for a concise set of rules, we might have to resort to common sense!

  2. #17
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    29th August 2007 - 23:51
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    Just got off the blower with the friendly fellas in Invers.

    They're ordering in a couple o' seals and will switch and refill 'em under warranty no problems. Just gotta wait a couple o weeks cos they're chockablock til Jan apparently.

    They also mentioned the 35mm film cleaning method. I'll give that a go. Good job i used to work in the cinema! (A business card sounds a bit on the thick side for my liking)

    I'm guessing there's dust got in there from the short gravel road i have to ride on every day just outside work. I can't see any visible damage anywhere.

    Cheers for the advice fellers.

    Oh, and tell the Yamaha dealer your next bike will be a green one


  3. #18
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    15th August 2004 - 17:52
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    Actually I've found a business card works better, the grit embeds in the fibrous cardboard and comes out of the seal nicely. It's also easier to use, plastic film gets mighty slippery when fork oil runs onto it.
    Cheers,
    Colin

    Quote Originally Posted by Steve McQueen
    All racers I know aren't in it for the money. They race because it's something inside of them... They're not courting death. They're courting being alive.

  4. #19
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    29th August 2007 - 23:51
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    oh.. maybe i'll give that a go then. Just thought a card would be a bit thick. Don't know 'til u try i suppose.


  5. #20
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    11th June 2007 - 08:55
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    Quote Originally Posted by warewolf View Post
    You can quote portions of the manufacturer's warranty, but you should also quote the bit that says it cannot remove your statuatory rights under law... ie the CGA.

    I've had fork seals replaced under warranty. On road bikes they should last a fairly long time. One pair was replaced at 40,000km then again at 50,000km because one of the new ones only lasted about 5,000km. The bike would have been close to 12 months old, can't remember if it was a 1- or 2-year warranty. I thought it was rather generous of them to do them under warranty at that mileage, but wasn't going to argue.

    Seals can leak because of detritus wedged in there. It is quite common on dirt bikes to clean the seals by sticking a feeler gauge, business card or 35mm film negative carefully up between the fork and the seal, and wipe the grit out. The purists will say "don't do it" but it is in my KTM service manuals as something to be done potentially after every ride.
    Indeed. Another factor that seriously undermines fork seal life are strong washing detergents and repeated power washing, most often seen with dirt bikes. How many users rework grease into the seals to stop the seals ''drying out'' etc?
    Warranty is as often justified as it is unjustified and with items such as fork seals its a grey area. I also know that the Consumer Guarantees Act has its merits but it has also been widely abused.

    Ph: 06 751 2100 * Email: robert@kss.net.nz
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  6. #21
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    15th August 2004 - 17:52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Taylor View Post
    How many users rework grease into the seals to stop the seals ''drying out'' etc?
    Are you suggesting this should, or should not, be done? I'm up for better maintenance, must admit I've never heard of that before.

    Another thing I've not done is pack the dust seal with grease, to catch crud before it hits the oil seal. What do you think of that trick? I haven't read any reports of people saying it caused a problem, many think it works wonders for them.

    Or another: put strips of foam in the dust seals, soaked in fork oil. My mtb has this feature ex-factory (non-USD forks though).

    Interesting that WP and KTM offer conflicting information in their documentation. After cleaning the seals, one says spray the seal/slider with silicon spray. The other says specifically DON'T use silicon spray, do use Motorex Joker 440 (synthetic oil spray). In other applications I've noticed a sort of salty crust forming after using silicon, so I use the synth oil. To my thinking, it has the added benefit of having a less detrimental effect on the synthetic fork oil, should they mix.

    Re: warranty etc, part of it boils down to your relationship with the dealer, as they often wear the costs or part of it. I support my local shops, they support me. More often in borderline situations I've been pleased rather than pissed.
    Cheers,
    Colin

    Quote Originally Posted by Steve McQueen
    All racers I know aren't in it for the money. They race because it's something inside of them... They're not courting death. They're courting being alive.

  7. #22
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    24th July 2006 - 11:53
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    Quote Originally Posted by warewolf View Post
    Or another: put strips of foam in the dust seals, soaked in fork oil. My mtb has this feature ex-factory (non-USD forks though).
    Used to do that on my KT. Seemed to help keep the wiper seals in good nick longer and kept a hint of oil on the chrome. Can't be bad.

    Quote Originally Posted by warewolf View Post
    Interesting that WP and KTM offer conflicting information in their documentation. After cleaning the seals, one says spray the seal/slider with silicon spray. The other says specifically DON'T use silicon spray, do use Motorex Joker 440 (synthetic oil spray). In other applications I've noticed a sort of salty crust forming after using silicon, so I use the synth oil. To my thinking, it has the added benefit of having a less detrimental effect on the synthetic fork oil, should they mix.
    With appologies to RT...

    One major consideration is seal material compatibility with oils. Some don't like some types of oil or additives. Faced with conflicting advice between an OE manufacturer and a seal manufacturer go with the seal guy's spec's. Polyurethane elastomers are wonderfully slippery and abrasive resistant and I like it as a fork seal material, but it don’t like pressure-contact with or immersion in mineral oils for long. Nitriles are more resistant but they wear a bit faster. EPDM is more or less immune to most lubricants but it’s not structurally as good. All these are common seal materials. Just to make things more confusing some of the new synthetics have really amazing properties, in the right application…
    Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon

  8. #23
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    11th June 2007 - 08:55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ocean1 View Post
    Used to do that on my KT. Seemed to help keep the wiper seals in good nick longer and kept a hint of oil on the chrome. Can't be bad.



    With appologies to RT...

    One major consideration is seal material compatibility with oils. Some don't like some types of oil or additives. Faced with conflicting advice between an OE manufacturer and a seal manufacturer go with the seal guy's spec's. Polyurethane elastomers are wonderfully slippery and abrasive resistant and I like it as a fork seal material, but it don’t like pressure-contact with or immersion in mineral oils for long. Nitriles are more resistant but they wear a bit faster. EPDM is more or less immune to most lubricants but it’s not structurally as good. All these are common seal materials. Just to make things more confusing some of the new synthetics have really amazing properties, in the right application…
    Absolutely! And many oils, sprays and greases are not compatible with one another and can react quite badly. There is no textbook of what brands etc are incompatible.

    Ph: 06 751 2100 * Email: robert@kss.net.nz
    Mob: 021 825 514 * Fax: 06 751 4551

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