No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Gee I’m confused. Is Motu on your ignore list?It is 90% likely to be free to fix.
Type in bigger font Motu, people can’t read your sage advice.
Ride the bike until the brakes lock up. Remove brake lever. Marvel at how this fixes the problem. Adjust or replace lever with genuine article so there is some freeplay.
Seen it again & again.
PS: saw a sign saying ‘Motu Enterprises’ when I was in Motuaka, almost took a pic to post but didn’t have the digital with me.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Wannabe racer
Like I said earlier I don't have time at the moment to do this, I might have a go at playing around with it next time I'm out at my uncles as I don't have a tig welder either.Originally Posted by F5 Dave
Gee I’m confused. Is Motu on your ignore list?
Life is difficult because it is non-linear.
Hardcore Biker
Take your calipers off and clean the pistons, takes about 10minutes & you dont have the time?? Think about it next time you go for a ride!
Motu & F5 Dave have both given sound advice, stop complaining and do something about it.
Forum whore
Ha - you make me laugh...fair dinkum,years ago I used to answer the phone on sundays with (insert my real name)'' Motu's free mechanical advisory service''...my mates wouldn't blink an eye and go right on - 'hey I've just pulled the head off,what's the head torque and tappet setting?'Gee I’m confused. Is Motu on your ignore list?
Type in bigger font Motu, people can’t read your sage advice.
It's an easy,and I think fun thing to do - go for a blast,using the brake hard till you feel it come on,back off the bleed screw,or remove the lever,go home and file some more off.Now I've got a tool on my belt that can solve the worlds problems,I'd rip it out and file away on the spot.
In and out of jobs, running free
Waging war with society
Wannabe racer
Well I might give it go on the weekend then If I'm not busy, I'll have to go get some brake fluid sometime then.Take your calipers off and clean the pistons, takes about 10minutes & you dont have the time?? Think about it next time you go for a ride!
Motu & F5 Dave have both given sound advice, stop complaining and do something about it.
Thanks guys for all your advice.
Life is difficult because it is non-linear.
Hardcore Biker
I put an RF900 front on my GSXR750 and had the exact same problem with the brake locking up. with mine it was due to the brake lever being bent in such a way that it put just a tiny bit of pressure on the booster and as you rode it pumped the brakes up. Gave me the shits the first few times until it was worked out. GSX and GSXR brakes can be a pain in the ass.
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
That’s funny I don’t have a tig welder either.
I was going to mow the lawn, but I don’t have a Brazilian fishing licence.
What the???
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Wannabe racer
Need the tig welder to build up the weld so I don't have to pull my leaver in so far. I thought that's what you were on about me doing???
Why I'm at it, if you pull your calipiers apart do you have to replace the o ring seals or can you normally get away with using the old ones.
Life is difficult because it is non-linear.
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Um, no, the exact opposite, if the lever is slightly pushing in the master cylinder piston then you need to file it. Or you could file the stop so the lever opens more which is preferable if your hands are big enough to grab a lever that is a little further away.
Usually the seals are good, but be prepared to by new ones if any doubt.
Really I’d try the lever first.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Wannabe racer
Ok now I understand what you're trying to say. I've already filed it down so it doesn't lock up anymore, So I was thinking you ment put more weld on and then slowly file that away, hence the need for a welder. Also filed it so the leaver is slightly further away.
Yeah that's what I'm a little worried about pulling the calipiers apart but I guess if it has to be done it has to be done.
Life is difficult because it is non-linear.
Forum whore
On my XLV750 I changed the lever to bring the lever in closer for my dainty girl like hands...but I filed a bit too much on the last attempt.As a temp fix I folded a peice of stainless cut from an old hose clip and used it as a shim - it was still there 3 yrs later when I sold the bike,never did bother to modify another lever,if it works,it works
Seals can often be used again,but I'd get some anyway - you don't want to be standing there with your calipers spread over the bench saying...''shit!,now I need some seals and they have to come from Japan!''
In and out of jobs, running free
Waging war with society
Wannabe racer
Yeah that's what I'm afraid of. So I might leave playing round with them until I can afford to buy some new seals.
Life is difficult because it is non-linear.
Forum whore
Didn't read the whole thread, so hope I'm not repeating too much. What you did by adding the weld, was take the free play out of the master cylinder, which means the brakes were essentially on all the time (which you probably gathered). Because your brakes are ineffective till about half pull, you wouldn't have noticed initially. No foul though, seen plenty of people (even mechanics) do it.
If the bike is getting on, it's probably a combination of things causing the 'squish'.
- Hoses are buggered (either new ones from the manufacturer, or Safe R Brakes in Chch can make new ones with low expansion hose).
- Calipers are gummed up, and the caliper seals are worn. The caliper seals are a square section that skews under brakes, so they might be knackered and worn out. They're almost always an 1/8" section oring, availble from any brake specialists (I have a list of them if you're stuck, I'll even give you the part number if you measure the piston diameter)
- Master cylinder seals are poked. Needs a new kit, probably from the manufacturer. Although if the bore is poked, it'll need resleeving. A few places in NZ do that, the better ones will rekit it as well as sleeving it, saving you the trouble (and probably the $100 a genuine kit costs, because they've had seals made to fit).
- It isn't bled right, or the fluid is old. Air compresses, fluid won't. Master cylinders must be primed (get the air out) before hooking up the hoses. They're like oil pumps, they won't pump air. Bleeding bikes is a pain. The air has a long way to go down, and it wants to keep floating back up. You need someone who can do it, or the easiest way for someone who is new to bikes is to make the calipers higher than the master cylinder whilst they bleed. There's other tricks, but that's easiest for Mr I've No Tools.
- Pads/discs are poked. Doesn't help when the brakes are taking up heaps of space where ridged/lipped discs and pads are meeting.
A combination of these in small amounts is enough to turn good systems into poo. I hope something here helps.
/edit: Can't think of a good reason to ever start modifying levers if the brakes are in good nick. Most levers have that sort of adjustment built in (sometimes a screw, sometimes a span adjuster, cause lets face it, the only thing you can really adjust there is the span.... And a good tip is always always clean your caliper pistons when you change pads. They're sticking out, and you're about to push them in. The dirt on the pistons is all bad news for the seals. Just use a tooth brush and hot soap water (or brakekleen if you've got it). Takes 5 extra minutes, and most bikes don't have the dust seals that cars do. Don't ever use anything petroleum based on brakes though (like CRC, kero, petrol etc), just hot soapy water will do it
Hardcore Biker
I hope your not going to ride it like that,never take any chances with brakes or tyres,could well cost a whole lot more further on down the road,you`ll be anacident waiting to happen.
Me Like Cafe
Yeah, and if you do go to stainless- make sure they are DOT approved lines as next WOF you might get knocked back.
Good advce about using new fluid, always crack a new bottle when doing the bike, use the leftover for the cage.
Rubber hoses are OK for a reasonable lifespan, they will expand over time and hard leaver input.
The M/cyl freeplay will be listed in the manual, and is vital you get it correct.
For the price of a few cups and dust seals [ try to get general ones from a Brake and Clutch outlet before you go 'Factory' replacements] it would be worth pulling it down for an inspection. If only to check the movement of the pistons and if any lips have formed in the bores. Then at least you know it is all good afterwards, surgically clean, new fluid, blead up, and then see....
Blast From The Past Axis of Oil
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