Results 1 to 12 of 12

Thread: 2001 Yamaha R6 clutch problem

  1. #1
    Join Date
    27th April 2008 - 17:48
    Bike
    01 R6, 99 KX125
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    406

    2001 Yamaha R6 clutch problem

    Can anyone tell me what is wrong with my clutch....

    At the moment it has a slight drag in it, making it very hard to get into neutral or idle when the clutch is pulled in. The drag is still there even when you adjust the clutch so much that it is completely slipping.

    Here goes some history: Prior to me getting the bike it had new clutch and friction plate put in by the shop I got it from. This was because they were worn and slipping. The shop that done it doesn't deal with sports bike so after they had put it back together and found the problem they talked on the phone to some other mechanics and thought they had fixed it. But it is still dragging.
    After that I put the bike into a mechanic shop that deals with sports bikes (not yamaha dealer tho) who stripped everything, check that everything was within Yamaha's specifications. Everything was all good, so they put everything back together, torqued everything to the specifactions and have put on a new gasket (the previous shop didn't put on one, just some gasket sealant). But there is still a little bit of a drag.

    So what is the problem??? Is it maybe that the plates were not soaked in oil (have only done about 500k's on the new clutch plates?? Or is it some other adjustment.

    Supposable the Yamaha dealers have no idea either.....

    Anyone please help.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    13th September 2005 - 18:20
    Bike
    Crashed it.
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    2,043
    Since you mention adjustment, I assume it's cable operated.

    Presuming the clutch basket bearings have been checked, I would suggest a simple change of engine oil brand and viscosity.
    If it wasn't for a concise set of rules, we might have to resort to common sense!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    27th January 2005 - 17:04
    Bike
    1986 RZ350 + many others
    Location
    Christchurch
    Posts
    724
    The fingers in the clutch drum might be worn and and have notches in them. This can cause the plates to rub together a bit even though the clutch is pulled in. You can file them smooth and it will be a goldie.
    Two Stroke, the pinnacle of engine design

  4. #4
    Join Date
    27th April 2008 - 17:48
    Bike
    01 R6, 99 KX125
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    406
    Quote Originally Posted by TygerTung View Post
    The fingers in the clutch drum might be worn and and have notches in them. This can cause the plates to rub together a bit even though the clutch is pulled in. You can file them smooth and it will be a goldie.
    No notches present, the inside of the clutch is in great condition. Thanks for the help.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    27th April 2008 - 17:48
    Bike
    01 R6, 99 KX125
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    406
    Quote Originally Posted by Max Preload View Post
    Since you mention adjustment, I assume it's cable operated.

    Presuming the clutch basket bearings have been checked, I would suggest a simple change of engine oil brand and viscosity.
    Yes cable adjustment. I know that 2 different types of oil have been used in it. The last lot (thats in at the moment) is the same that the bike shop uses in all of the sports bikes that they service including other yamahas. In saying that I think I might get hold of Yamaha and find out exactly what oil they use.

    Thanks

  6. #6
    Join Date
    13th September 2005 - 18:20
    Bike
    Crashed it.
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    2,043
    When I changed from Castrol R4 to Fuchs Silkolene the reduction in transmission drag was substantial. Neutral was much easier to select and the first gear selection clunk disappeared. And during cold starts on the centrestand the rear wheel didn't turn for more than about 30 seconds whereas previously it'd just keep on spinning.
    If it wasn't for a concise set of rules, we might have to resort to common sense!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    23rd April 2004 - 19:16
    Bike
    2010 DC Skate Shoes
    Location
    Roxby Downs, SA
    Posts
    7,089
    I'd say adjust the cable.

    Put the adjuster at the the lever end all the way in to the bar, then turn it back out a half turn. Then use the adjuster above the clutch casing to adjust the pull on the clutch (you may need to take the fairing off to do this).

    Get it so it is no longer dragging, then use the adjuster by the lever to set the free-play which should be no more than 3mm at the top.

    Send me a PM if you want a hand.
    KiwiBitcher
    where opinion holds more weight than fact.

    It's better to not pass and know that you could have than to pass and find out that you can't. Wait for the straight.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    27th April 2008 - 17:48
    Bike
    01 R6, 99 KX125
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    406
    Quote Originally Posted by R6_kid View Post
    I'd say adjust the cable.

    Put the adjuster at the the lever end all the way in to the bar, then turn it back out a half turn. Then use the adjuster above the clutch casing to adjust the pull on the clutch (you may need to take the fairing off to do this).

    Get it so it is no longer dragging, then use the adjuster by the lever to set the free-play which should be no more than 3mm at the top.

    Send me a PM if you want a hand.

    Have tried all the adjustments including when the clutch was slipping at all times & it still drags.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    13th September 2005 - 18:20
    Bike
    Crashed it.
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    2,043
    Assuming that everything was actually checked properly when the clutch was stripped (with particular attention to the clutch basket bearings) there's really not a lot left that is a potential simple fix aside from oil which I've previously mentioned.

    If you adjust all the freeplay out of the clutch cable and then some, I presume it still drags?
    If it wasn't for a concise set of rules, we might have to resort to common sense!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    27th April 2008 - 17:48
    Bike
    01 R6, 99 KX125
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    406
    Okay, I had a little play today (been busy as). I played with the adjustment, as it has new plates very little adjustment is needed. This didn't seem to make a difference. I found out it currently has Motul oil in it, so not a cheap sort. I'm goin to change the type of oil and then go for a decent ride. I'm thinking that the plates were never soaked in oil which helps them to slip more as they wear in, therefore they are not slipping enough. Hoping that changing the oil and also going for some more rides will fix everything.

    Cannot think of anything else. Thanks for all the comments.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    23rd April 2004 - 19:16
    Bike
    2010 DC Skate Shoes
    Location
    Roxby Downs, SA
    Posts
    7,089
    I've still got a full set of plates. They werent slipping when i broke the engine down to parts. Let me know if you want to give them a try.
    KiwiBitcher
    where opinion holds more weight than fact.

    It's better to not pass and know that you could have than to pass and find out that you can't. Wait for the straight.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    27th April 2008 - 17:48
    Bike
    01 R6, 99 KX125
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    406
    Quote Originally Posted by R6_kid View Post
    I've still got a full set of plates. They werent slipping when i broke the engine down to parts. Let me know if you want to give them a try.
    Am gonna give the Yamaha dealer a call on Tuesday to discuss the problem. Do you have a manual for the 01 models? Trying your plates could be an option.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •