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Thread: Noob question about nuts.

  1. #1
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    15th August 2007 - 17:36
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    Noob question about nuts.

    Gi'day folks. I am pretty new to bikes and been riding for about 2 years.
    I have noticed that periodically my chain tends to get quite slack. Up until now I have always had it fixed up when I take it in to get serviced but its such an easy preocedure I figure I can do it myself. My chain has become really quite slack now and I want to release the 2 nuts on either side of the rear tyre and pull it back abit to get my chain to the desired tension.
    I tried using a large sized crescent but wouldn't budge They are too tight (and quite rightly so)
    My question is what tools do I need to undo these nuts? A socket wrench?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattian View Post
    My question is what tools do I need to undo these nuts? A socket wrench?
    Is there a locking pin or locknut that needs to be loosened first?
    A socket and bar is best - then you can always slip a length of pipe over the bar for extra leverage.
    ... and that's what I think.

    Or summat.


    Or maybe not...

    Dunno really....


  3. #3
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    On my rear axle I use a combination of the appropriate sized socket, a long rachett lever and brute force. Always worse when it comes back from a dealer afet getting new tyres. Especially if they use air tools.
    "When you think of it,

    Lifes a bowl of ....MERDE"

  4. #4
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    Doesn't appear to be a pin or lock nut. Its just 2 plain nuts and it looks like once loosened quite easy to move the tyre back. Its just the loosening of them thats the trouble.

  5. #5
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    Then use a plain bar (1/2" is good) rather than a ratchet. You can stand on it, kick it, or even bash it with a hammer to get the nuts loose. Sometimes it needs a sudden shock to get it started, especially (as Mr Merde said) a pneumatic wrench has been used.
    ... and that's what I think.

    Or summat.


    Or maybe not...

    Dunno really....


  6. #6
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    OK, I am off to buy a decent sized socket wrench and give that a go. CHeers.

  7. #7
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    Awesome. Thanks Mr Merde and Vifferman..... will try the socket wrench from Mitre 10 first. My worry is that they've used a pnuematic wrench and got it on so tight that you need another one to loosen it but, I'll give it a go.

  8. #8
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    It's unusual there's no split pin or anything. I thought that was a WOF requirement?

    On the bikes at my place, I put a correct sized socket on a 1/2" powerbar on one side, and an adjustable crescent on the other, works every time.

    If you'd rather not buy the tools, PM me & you can come round to my place in Papakura & we'll have a look. If that doesn't work, we'll zip round the corner to my friendly mechanic and use his rattle gun to loosen the nut, put it back on with a ratchet handle, and THEN go adjust the chain properly.
    Last edited by Sparrowhawk; 8th January 2009 at 10:09. Reason: Adding stuff
    I figure car drivers must be Apes. All they do is sit in cages all day & grunt

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattian View Post
    Awesome. Thanks Mr Merde and Vifferman..... will try the socket wrench from Mitre 10 first. My worry is that they've used a pnuematic wrench and got it on so tight that you need another one to loosen it but, I'll give it a go.
    If your a tubby like me then use brute force (ie stamp on the lever) or a rubber mallet .As Vifferman said it sometimes just needs that sharp crack to start the thing off.

    Do make sure there are not lock nuts or cotter pins anywhere.
    "When you think of it,

    Lifes a bowl of ....MERDE"

  10. #10
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    Once you have loosened the axle nuts, there should be a chain adjustment bolt, possibly with a lock nut or maybe an allen key, at the rear of each side of the swing arm. Tighten these to adjust your chain. Check that the chain adjustment marks line up (ie the same on both sides) otherwise your wheel alignment may be way out.
    Time to ride

  11. #11
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    There should be a wee ring spanner in your bike toolkit that fits... put it on the nut, tap it with a hammer. 4 or 5 smaller taps better than one big one.

    If you go to SMACK it once it can go flying off and hit something, or have the hammer deflect off and hit you etc. A lot more controllable if you hit it a couple of times - like you were driving in a small to medium sized nail.
    $2,000 cash if you find a buyer for my house, kumeuhouseforsale@straightshooters.co.nz for details

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jantar View Post
    ... Check that the chain adjustment marks line up (ie the same on both sides) otherwise your wheel alignment may be way out.
    Doesnt always ring true.

    On my current bike the markings are well out.

    I use a piece of string from a known point on either side of the bike to the axle bolt. By doing this I know the wheel is alligned. I do this with the bikes rear wheel off the ground so that there is no other forces working on the wheel
    "When you think of it,

    Lifes a bowl of ....MERDE"

  13. #13
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    One handy dandy tip I saw used at cycle treads one time too...

    • Get a medium sized screwdriver and wind it back into the sproket (so it makes a lump under the chain).
    • Tighten the chain right up (tight!) and do up the nuts on the wheels so the wheel is straight
    • Roll the wheel round so the screwdriver is released out from under the chain.

    Tension is set!
    $2,000 cash if you find a buyer for my house, kumeuhouseforsale@straightshooters.co.nz for details

  14. #14
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    15th August 2007 - 17:36
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    Thanks folks.... and Thanks to you SparrowHawk. Bloody nice of you to offer mate. you rule.

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