Hardcore Biker
Hi, I've just purchased a 1989 GSXR1100 and the brakes are CRAP. I want to use the bike for trackdays initially, and maybe one day if I ever grow the nuts............... And if I didn't grow any, and sold it, the next owner (with the aforementioned NUTS) would find the modifications useful.
So where do I find out what is and isn't allowed? What bits can you change? Braided lines? Discs? Calipers? Master cylinder?
Forum whore
Go to the MNZ website and look back under news articles in June 08 and it has the proposed Pre89 rules were accepted basically as they are.
The short story is that brakes are deemed a major component and thus must fit the age cut off for the class. ie dec 31st 1989. That means you can use components of either OEM or aftermarket manufacture built and available prior to that date (or exact replicas of). Remember also you may or will have to prove this at some point. And just because it had floating discs that does not mean that any floating disc is acceptable - they must be of the period..
The class is essentially racing old bikes, so the parts need to be representative of the period. They won't be "perfect" and compared to your K7, I guess they won't have the performance. The trick is upgrading within what was allowable to get the best you want or can afford.
That basically covers discs and calipers. Brake lines are open as ar pads. The rules allow basically any mastercylinders except no "radial pull" style on a late model superbike.
Howver, I think a bigger Question is - why are your brakes so crap? From memory the GSXR brakes are okay. I'd be looking at tidying up what you have make sure it is working okay - ie pads, seals, lines, fluid, and check disc wear (maybe just needs a new set of copy rotors fitted by someone like Steve Bridge at F1 engineering)
Hardcore Biker
Where from?Originally Posted by malcy25
Unexpected Spanish inquisition
..........
Before you judge a man, walk a mile in his shoes. After that, who cares? ...He's a mile away and you've got his shoes
Hardcore Biker
Sorry, thought Steve Bridge at F1 Engineering would fit them etc. Didn't realise he'd supply them too!..........
Unexpected Spanish inquisition
Sorry, thought Steve Bridge at F1 Engineering would fit them etc. Didn't realise he'd supply them too!
Lol, sometimes it's easy to miss the obvious!
Before you judge a man, walk a mile in his shoes. After that, who cares? ...He's a mile away and you've got his shoes
Hardcore Biker
Cheers! That is exactly what I want!
Forum whore
Start with basic maintenance items;
- Replace the lines... if they're old rubber ones, after 3-5 years they're generally ready to be tossed, depending on a lot of things, but it's a good rule of thumb for something with that sort of wick!
- Replace the friction surfaces... grooved and worn discs won't give optimal track performance. Overheated or old falling apart pads, same deal. Any dealer in NZ will be able to price you up some Metal Gear discs (they get them through Whites if they don't know already). They seem to be good value for money. They also come with matching pads. Wear those out, then try some others for comparison, build your knowledge
- Strip and clean the calipers... This should be done on every bike at about say 6000kms or 6 months of use. Personally I prefer to take them off the forks and clean them (mostly the pistons) with a toothbrush every second wash the bike gets. Make sure the pads go back against the same piston when you're done. The seals have an effect on the way the piston moves, it's generally small, but can improve feel.
Once you're sure that your shit is tight, then move onto upgrades (yes fluid needs changing but you'd have done that when you stripped the calieprs down).
The seals in mcyls do get tired before they fail. Easy way to go is to get a mcyl from something later with similar bore and stroke dimensions. They're dead cheap off of eBay.
gee wizzz
They guy I'd be haveing a yeodle to is Sugalite on here or if you can find him Bubbles grey. They both have a clue or two about getting old bikes to stop well .
To see a life newly created.To watch it grow and prosper. Isn't that the greatest gift a human being can be given?
Hardcore Biker
Hi Patrick,
When I first took my '89 to puke the brakes were crap too.
I fitted some braded lines and replace the fluid with some high temp stuff.
This got rid of the spongy feeling and they work great. Also get some racing brake pads.
I look forward to seeing you on the track.
Peter
Forum whore
It's a Suzuki and it's a dinosaur. What did you expect? Squeeze the lever harder...bwhahahah.
Hardcore Biker
I'm using both hands already!Am considering taking a pillion to help me squeeze it!
Forum whore
Braided lines,good rotors,new fluid and replace caliper seals or get fzr1000w.
Glen Williams
Newer modern style pads do make a reasonble difference, however backing plates to help with ressiting heat transfer can be handy if using at a track where you are asking a lot of brakes. (But then again its a Gixxer1100 so the inertia is pretty out there aye ........ :-) )
Low personal B.M.E.P.
All the advice given to you here is good...no need to change the M/C size - when the lines and fluid are good feel will be good too.
Back in the day we used to cut down Ferodo DS8 car pads - the material was head & shoulders better than what you could get for bikes. Modern materials have made a big difference.
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