Point ignition wiring help

**Skunk** · 4th February 2009, 20:38

Cheers Pete. I've lapped it with valve grinding paste and used a 'little' Loctite.
Used a fat washer behind the nut too. Cross fingers.

I knew what the key was for which is why I was happy with the one I made.

Looking at the tapers I think I may need to machine the crank and the flywheel at some stage. Either that or do a shit load of lapping!

I'll see what happens on the 1st March at Kaitoke.

**Kendog** · 4th February 2009, 20:56

Originally Posted by Skunk

I'll see what happens on the 1st March at Kaitoke.

Why not try the unofficial Petone track in the weekend. It's going to be quiet given it's a long weekend and it's the sevens.

**Skunk** · 4th February 2009, 21:45

Originally Posted by Kendog

Why not try the unofficial Petone track in the weekend. It's going to be quiet given it's a long weekend and it's the sevens.

Hush now!

**craisin** · 7th February 2009, 05:23

so if they are prone to shearing from new reducing the size by machining aint going to do jack. Lightening the flywheel may be a good idea.

**Skunk** · 7th February 2009, 07:48

The taper was in a bad state, I just didn't realise how bad until I started lapping it in. I don't think they are 'prone' to shearing - just they can if things aren't right.
If I was going to 'hot' this motor up I would lighten the flywheel.

**craisin** · 7th February 2009, 08:07

less spinning weight would make it less likely to spin on the shaft

and you dont have to split cases

**Skunk** · 7th February 2009, 13:11

You're missing the point of this exercise.

• Don't spend money.
• Try the motor first.
• It'll never be a competitive engine - cast iron barrel, very little finning on the head etc.

Why would I spend time and money lightening a flywheel that has been fine for the last 35 odd years? I just didn't put it together very well.