What killed my regulator?

[nigelp]

My bike was having electrical issues and took it to suzuki and have been told that my regulator is buggered. Getting a replacement but just wondered what kind of life cycle they have? My bike is 1997 but only has 25k on it.

Bike is a XF650 Freewind adventure bike (basically DR650 motor). Hasnt been used much lately and battery was down a bit so charged it up and went flat during a 1hr ride.

[vifferman]

R/R's are pretty primitive - they regulate excess current by shunting it to ground - basically turn it into heat. That means they don't have an infinite lifetime to start with. Then any other irregularities like poor connections in the circuit, corrosion on plugs etc, tired battery, will all help to hasten their demise.

[James Deuce]

Usually heat. I'm pretty sure the DR/Freewind regulators of that era don't have heatsinks. I found a place in Germany that makes a replacement for the Freewind with a heatsink.

Freewind's are quite popular in Europe. DAMHIK, either about Freewind regulators or Germany. Long, bitter story.

Anyway - linky: http://www.bc-parts.de/Laderegler/Su...ml?language=en

It could be anything, but regulators on any vehicle don't like excessive heat exposure.

[nigelp]

The ride it crapped out on was the 35 degree plus day we had in Chch here a few weeks ago and was 2up going slow around the Waimak so could have my question answered.

I can see now why it flattened my battery in about 3 days if it put excess current to a ground. 3 days is pretty good going for an old battery I would think!

[elevenhundred]

You might want to check the condition of your alternator also, if they develop a short they can cause the RR to fail (eventually followed by the battery).
You just need to measure the AC voltage coming out of it according to the values specified by the workshop manual.

[XRKID]

I went through quite a few on my 400 a while back but i found the better ones, and usually the cheaper ones, are the 3 phase heat shrink with fins on them from the old hondas mid 80's+ and looking at one that came of a 700 or higher. They all work the same and are real easy to put on, saves you from buying a $200 from budgets. PM if you need any help sorting one out.

[Mc TOOL]

R/R's are pretty primitive - they regulate excess current by shunting it to ground - basically turn it into heat. That means they don't have an infinite lifetime to start with. Then any other irregularities like poor connections in the circuit, corrosion on plugs etc, tired battery, will all help to hasten their demise.

ah, these are called voltage regulators for a reason ..... they regulate voltage not current . Current flow is regulated by the overall resistance of the circut , ( basic ohms law ) having said that , the current flowing from the alt does flow THRU the R.R and ( depending on the type of alt , perminant magnet or electro magnet ) the excess voltage is directed to earth , I E anything over 13.5 to 14 volts . If you keep blowing r.r's , you need to be thinking that excess current is flowing , maybe because there is a short to earth AFTER the R.R or have you fitted heated grips , a big headlight or some other thing that uses enough power to overload the R.R. Phew , there are after market r.r's available , or you could fit one off a "bigger " system. I own 4 itallian bikes there is nothing you could teach me about the electrix thereof. I have had to replace the r.r's on all of them ( still struggling with the guzzi ) . All r.r's need good connections and a heat sink , firmly bolted to the frame , preferably out in the wind. Remove the charging fuse and fit an amp meter in circut , start the bike and turn on all the normal stuff , measure the current and multiply it by the circut voltage to give the watts ( power ) and see how it stacks up against the spec's..... you may be surprized

[rogson]

Nigel,
Before you install a new RR check that there is no short to ground from the positive terminal of the battery. If there is it will stuff the new RR in no time. The main things to check are the battery terminal itself and the cable/connections to the starter solenoid. Also, check for shorts to ground in any accessories (like heated grips, etc) that might be connected to the positive terminal.

[Crasherfromwayback]

Nigel,
Before you install a new RR check that there is no short to ground from the positive terminal of the battery. If there is it will stuff the new RR in no time. The main things to check are the battery terminal itself and the cable/connections to the starter solenoid. Also, check for shorts to ground in any accessories (like heated grips, etc) that might be connected to the positive terminal.

What he said. A battery installed with the leads back to front will fuck a reg.