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Thread: Engine oil level.

  1. #1
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    12th May 2004 - 23:54
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    Engine oil level.

    I commited a terrible crime towards my bike and am not proud of it. I didn't change the oil for "an undisclosed number of k's", but eventually did it the other day. But back when it wasn't very happy about the whole situation it started using up a decent amount of oil, as they do, and my oil light didn't come on. At one stage I had to top it up 1/2 a litre *ducks for cover* and it still wasn't on, but when I went to start it up after changing the oil the other day it briefly came on for a second while the oil got washed back around the engine. So it obviously works, but it made me wonder how much oil you can actually loose before a)the light usually goes on, and b)the bike dies? Anyone have any words of wisdom?

  2. #2
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    yamaha to my knowledge is the only jap brand to use a oil LEVEL light instead of a oil Pressure light. As long as the bike isn't so low the oil pump can't circulate the oil then the oil light wont come on.
    The lil flicker was as ya say the sensor detecting thin air.
    I think --Including oil filter your bike holds about 2.5l so a half litre is a problem but she aint about to seize--Yet
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by XJ/FROSTY
    yamaha to my knowledge is the only jap brand to use a oil LEVEL light instead of a oil Pressure light. As long as the bike isn't so low the oil pump can't circulate the oil then the oil light wont come on.
    The lil flicker was as ya say the sensor detecting thin air.
    I think --Including oil filter your bike holds about 2.5l so a half litre is a problem but she aint about to seize--Yet
    I would have thought Yamaha would have a safety margin built in so the light comes on before you're sucking thin air,whats the point of a warning light coming on when it's just to tell you "sorry you've just rooted your motor"
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  4. #4
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    I agree with the responses above. Half a litre in a YZF250 would be another matter as you only have 900-1000mls to start with. You are a bad bad girl for not keeping up with this vital maintenance ritual. Nuff said.

    But on the bright side I have also heard that 250 learner bikes do not infact require maintenance at all

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andyadams
    I agree with the responses above. Half a litre in a YZF250 would be another matter as you only have 900-1000mls to start with. You are a bad bad boy for not keeping up with this vital maintenance ritual. Nuff said.

    But on the bright side I have also heard that 250 learner bikes do not infact require maintenance at all

    She was told by all on the welly cruise last week bout regular maintenance..... probly did it this week so we couldnt giv her shite tonite.......


    Velox - you shouldnt have done anything serious yet, and it'll like you for a while now uve changed it. theres usually around a half litre variation on the scale on the oil level gauge so you dont wanna have to put more than that in............... ..

    how does the clutch feel with clean oil? still gunna be ur next investment?

    oh and yeah 250's need regular maintenance you slacker andy!!!! i was fairly naughty and didnt do mine till round 8000kms...... :confused2
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  6. #6
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    Yeah as the oil gets stuffed & separates into sludge & water thin brown stuff, the thin stuff isn’t controlled by the rings so burns in combustion chamber & exits out the pipe.

    As described the oil pressure is measured, not the level (on most bikes). In the old days of single cam Honda 4s the oil light was just a notification that your crank had just run a bearing & best you think of how you can pay for it by the time you get home.

    When you start it after changing the oil it takes a tickle to pump the oil around so the light is on for a few seconds & nothing to worry about.
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    If you're anal like me you whip the plugs out and spin the engine on the starter motor until the oil light goes out after putting a new filter and oil in an engine (or at least until you think the filter is full if you don't want to grind the engine over THAT long).
    Then bang the plugs back in and away you go. (pays to earth the plugs as it is (apparently) not good for the ignition otherwise.

    Just means there's no load on the engine until there's oil pressure.
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    Quote Originally Posted by scumdog
    If you're anal like me you whip the plugs out and spin the engine on the starter motor until the oil light goes out after putting a new filter and oil in an engine (or at least until you think the filter is full if you don't want to grind the engine over THAT long).
    Then bang the plugs back in and away you go. (pays to earth the plugs as it is (apparently) not good for the ignition otherwise.

    Just means there's no load on the engine until there's oil pressure.

    You gotta do WHAT?!?!?

    Jees...
    Step 1 Run the engine till the oil's hot enough to burn your hands
    2) put bsomething under your bike to catch said oil
    3) burn your hands while taking out sump plug
    4) burn your hands with gush of oil pouring out
    5) burn your hands recovering sump plug from oil in container
    6) remember to remove oil filler thingy
    7) clean side of bike coz oil all over it from oily hands (refer 4 above)
    8) burn your hands putting sump plug back in
    9) fill with oil till it shows up in the little window thingy (you can use this new oil to soth your burned hands too)
    10) put filler thingy back on
    11) wipe hands clean(ish) and side of bike
    12) head into burns unit
    13) upon return, check oil level and return to step two above as needed

    How do you guys do it?
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  9. #9
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    A lot less burning, a lot less mess but pretty much the same MDU, I tend to leave the oil to drain overnight too!

    (Wipes spectacles, straightens all four pens in pocket protector and re-hangs anorak on porcelain coat-hook)
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by scumdog
    A lot less burning, a lot less mess but pretty much the same MDU, I tend to leave the oil to drain overnight too!

    (Wipes spectacles, straightens all four pens in pocket protector and re-hangs anorak on porcelain coat-hook)
    Oh wow - you are da MAN. I wish I had a pocket protector!
    .

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  11. #11
    I wear blue overalls,that way no one can tell if my ball points leak.

    Wow scumdog - you got a bike with spark plugs you can see,and then remove without dismantling the bike? oh,that's so seventies!
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Motu
    I wear blue overalls,that way no one can tell if my ball points leak.

    Wow scumdog - you got a bike with spark plugs you can see,and then remove without dismantling the bike? oh,that's so seventies!

    And loving it!!
    That's the reason for owning such an antiquated engine design, all you need (or as soo many people on TV adds say "awyouneed" grr!) is a Raliegh bike spanner, a common bed spanner and the screwdriver and spanner from a Meccano set and you are tooled up for a complete engine re-build and fork seal replacement job.
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  13. #13
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    I'm assuming the fork seal material is plumbers tape.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by XJ/FROSTY
    yamaha to my knowledge is the only jap brand to use a oil LEVEL light instead of a oil Pressure light. As long as the bike isn't so low the oil pump can't circulate the oil then the oil light wont come on.
    The lil flicker was as ya say the sensor detecting thin air.
    I think --Including oil filter your bike holds about 2.5l so a half litre is a problem but she aint about to seize--Yet
    The oil light in my FZR and my mates XV come on when the thing is full to the top. Fuggen annoying really. The sensor for mine must be on the LHS somewhere as it usually comes on after taking a right hander at speed...or is it the other way around? Anyway, you get the idea.
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  15. #15
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    I have the XV and I have the same problem. Usually goes away when the engine has been running for a few minutes. But the level light is inconsistent with the window level indicator.
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