Captain snap bolt.

**Magua** · 22nd February 2009, 11:28

Putting the final touches on the bike after its rebuild I managed to snap one of the studs that holds the exhaust flange on.

Is it as simple as using some brute force to get the old one out, or is this a job for someone more in the know?

**xwhatsit** · 22nd February 2009, 11:32

Oh! In the pic you showed me it looked like it was flush.

That'll be much easier to get out. Maybe even with a good pair of vice-grips if you're lucky. Otherwise you could grind a couple of flats in it for something to grip onto. If there was a bit more thread then you could put two nuts on there and use them to unscrew it.

**speedpro** · 22nd February 2009, 11:43

Start by giving it a squirt of CRC 5-56 or that MPPL stuff from the other crowd. Every little bit will help with getting it out. Do it more than a few times so that hopefully some gets in and helps when it's time to have a go at getting the stud out out. Give it a bit of heat. I generally go for just-a-bit-too-hot-to-keep-your-hand-on as that seems to be enough generally. Clamp your vice grips on the remaining bit and wriggle back and forth with more emphasis on the screwing it out direction. If at first you don't succeed try a bit more heat and a bit more wriggling on the vice grip. Works for me every time. Don't try to just unscrew it. Quite often these studs have corrosion and you need to free it up, hence the wriggling it back and forth till it frees up.

**Max Preload** · 22nd February 2009, 11:49

I have some proper stud removers if you'd like to borrow them. They're 1/2" drive, about the same depth as a deep socket and operate like a sprag clutch.

**FROSTY:Me** · 22nd February 2009, 12:06

Or you um could go nahh fuggit and see if theres enough thread remaining to clamp the whole plot back up-Looks like there is

**CookMySock** · 22nd February 2009, 20:50

Pickle it with CRC for a couple of days and see how you go.

Sometimes you can quickly heat the bolt up red hot with the TIG or the oxy/acetylene and then let it cool completely. This expands the metal surrounding the bolt, forcing it apart a bit. The bolt contracts back to its normal shape, but the surrounding metal does not, giving it some clearence. The give it the CRC treatment again, and it should come out real easy.

Steve

**scumdog** · 22nd February 2009, 21:01

If'n ya can fit a nut onto the end of the stud and weld it on it will (a) heat the stud an dhelp loosen it and (b) give ya somehting to get a socket onto.

Lots of CRC (or any oil) and a backwards/forwards work with a spanner should help get it going.

**Magua** · 23rd February 2009, 10:42

Originally Posted by Max Preload

I have some proper stud removers if you'd like to borrow them. They're 1/2" drive, about the same depth as a deep socket and operate like a sprag clutch.

These are brilliant, I managed to get it out with ease.

Off to the wrecker now.

**The Pastor** · 23rd February 2009, 10:48

Originally Posted by Max Preload

I have some proper stud removers if you'd like to borrow them. They're 1/2" drive, about the same depth as a deep socket and operate like a sprag clutch.

are these expensive to buy?

**Max Preload** · 23rd February 2009, 10:58

Originally Posted by renegade master

are these expensive to buy?

I can't remember - they're 20-odd years old from my dirty fingernail days. And as usual the Sulco website is all but completely useless, but they are shown here.

Edit: Oops my bad. Sulco have the very set. $85.

**3umph** · 23rd February 2009, 11:05

Originally Posted by Magua

These are brilliant, I managed to get it out with ease.

Off to the wrecker now.

good to hear... always the chance of breaking it off flush but not this time

**Max Preload** · 23rd February 2009, 11:15

FYI there are also these cam type stud extractors which are cheap and universal but these load the stud with a bending moment due to their offset not almost pure torque that the sprag type give (provided the user knows how to correctly apply the load to the driver).

**The Pastor** · 23rd February 2009, 14:37

Originally Posted by max preload

fyi there are also these cam type stud extractors which are cheap and universal but these load the stud with a bending moment due to their offset not almost pure torque that the sprag type give (provided the user knows how to correctly apply the load to the driver).

is that site nzd?