Why does a chain wear unevenly?

[tri boy]

This is really brief, and most oldies/experienced riders will know all this, but maybe some newbies will gain something from it.

Pic 1. This chain wear tool is calibrated for heavy lift chain on machines like forklifts, so the scale isn't correct for bikes, but hopefully I can either knock one up for bikes, or purchase one. (note, the wear limit on lift chain is only 3%, due to the hazard of tonnes of weight dropping out of the sky onto someone).
Great tool for quick accurate wear measurement.

Pic 2. Concentric wear marks on hard steel caused by the X rings as the bush/pin wears. Rubber can do serious damage to steel.
This wear also lets moisture/dirt in, and the internal chain grease out.
Lube regularly to replace lost grease. MHO

[vifferman]

My approach is to use a quality spray lube (not spray wax) after cleaning the chain, then going for a short (5 min) ride.
Spray not only the O-ring area, but also the roller sleeve area. (The bit that the sprocket transfer force through).
By doing this, you will drastically reduce sprocket wear, (because there is an oil buffer between the sprocket tooth, and the roller).

I admire your logic, but in reality how much oil is there going to be left between roller and sprocket after a few revolutions of the sprocket?

The problem with most lubes is they are either not sticky enough to stay put, or if they are, they gather road spooge, and become grinding paste. I guess they only way around this is either minimal frequent lubing (with an automated luber being the ultimate example of this), or constant attention to the chain, especially after riding in dusty or wet conditions. As soon as possible after riding in the rain, the chain really needs a dousing in kerosene followed by an application of lube.

Personally, although I attend to my chain reasonably frequently, I regard it as a disposable item. Communtering in all weathers is particularly hard on chains, and I reckon I'd be lucky to get 10,000 km out of a chain. As soon as it develops some unevenness and the accompanying symphony of rhythmic Zizzing, out it goes. I've thought about an automated luber (I like gadgets!) but really can't be bothered.

[tri boy]

I admire your logic, but in reality how much oil is there going to be left between roller and sprocket after a few revolutions of the sprocket?

The problem with most lubes is they are either not sticky enough to stay put, or if they are, they gather road spooge, and become grinding paste.

The pic of the rear sprocket on the Daytona shows how a good quality lube will stick (pun) around, and continue oooze onto the tooth/roller.
Over cleaning the sprockets and chain is as bad as not cleaning, as it removes lube that still has a job to do. (like that build up of grease of grill, makes for tastier steaks MHO

[Motu]

How much would a suitable shaft drive add to the purchase price

There were at least a couple of bikes with a shaft drive option....or a version with shaft drive anyway.Some XJ750's....I know the cop ones had shaft,and some big suzuki things came with a shaft.Someone who loves to do nit picky stuff and find out what the price difference was for the shafty ones....I don't give a damn,but someone might.

[Bonez]

There were at least a couple of bikes with a shaft drive option....or a version with shaft drive anyway.Some XJ750's....I know the cop ones had shaft

All xj750s where shaft drive Motu. XS1100 had a chain option for racing i believe as did early MV Augustas.

[Mc TOOL]

vifferman & tri boy . Im with you guys on this chain thing in so much as I too think that it is an expendable item that does wear with normal use and that it requires reasonably constant maintainance. I have found the chain wax to be really good on the roadies. I try to direct the wax into the bushings , and just give the o,rings and plates a quick spray just to wet them , and its best left overnight . When I tried wax on my trailie ( kdx250 ) , ha , after a days ride the chain looked like a long skinny turd , which took a good soaking to get off. I use that cheap degreaser from S C auto's and a $2 paint brush , and dont go near it with a waterblaster ( good info pix too Tri boy )

[BMWST?]

chain do get tight spots,even litttle wee mtb chains,caused prolly by side loads from bad shifting.You can loosen tham again with the chain break tool.Some careful use of a hammer and punch,and or re rivet that tight link could fix it.I really want a shaft drive bike again,but if i end up with a chain I am gonna see if i can enclose ze chain
The yamaha xs 750,xs1100,xj650,Suzuki GS850G and GS1000 G has shafts,the suzukis and yammy 650 seemed not have any handling difficulties.