FXR150 will not run when up to temperature

[who_me_33]

My FXR150 has developed a problem where it will not run when it is up to temperature. It will run fine when it is cold, and has no problem revving when it is cold. But when it has been left to warm up, it is very reluctant to start, and when it does, it will not rev. I have cleaned the carb, and replaced the plug (both at the same time as the problem first came about an hour before my full test was scheduled). There has been no other problems with it in about the last year, and the only thig that happened before the problems came is it sat outside in the rain in for the morning, while I was at uni (this is the day the problems came). It has however had a chance for any thing that might have been wet to dry out, and the problem is still there. Does anyone have any ideas on where to start looking for this problem.

[Yow Ling]

if you havnt sorted it yet ask at www.fxr150.co.nz ,you will need to join the forum.

[who_me_33]

Does anyone have any ideas. It started working fine, and was like that for about 2 weeks, but then started giving problems again. It now will not run properly at any temperature. As soon as you give it a reasonable ammount of throttle it dies (if I managed to get it started in the first place, is reluctant to start at time, other times it starts fine). I have sprayed ether into the carb, and that doesnt help with the starting (rulling out carberation). I have been over all the connectors at the back of the bike (where the ignition module is), and there was only one with some water in it. This appears to be the main ignition box, it is an expoxy sealed box. There was also a grease like substance in the connector (clear, kind of like vasoline). I have sprayed crc on that connector to try and displace the water, and it doens't appear to have helped. Does anyone have any other ideas that I should try.

[awayatc]

if you expect moisture to be the problem......Still could be water in carbs..

I had a few times quite a bit of cor0ssion on the earth connections, and also on the flywheel.....
therefor it couldn't generate a strong enough spark.....

[who_me_33]

if you expect moisture to be the problem......Still could be water in carbs..

I had a few times quite a bit of cor0ssion on the earth connections, and also on the flywheel.....
therefor it couldn't generate a strong enough spark.....

Ok, I'll clean the carb again. Also I have had a look at the earth connection to the coil, and it was not too bad (corroded slightly on the outside, still a reasonable surface where it connects (and I also took to it with a wire brush to be sure). Where are the other earth connections to look for, (other than at battery). Are there any on the engine that I need to look for.
Nick

[who_me_33]

if you expect moisture to be the problem......Still could be water in carbs..

I had a few times quite a bit of cor0ssion on the earth connections, and also on the flywheel.....
therefor it couldn't generate a strong enough spark.....

Just cleaned the carb again. There was no water in the fuel in float bowl (I drained it into a clear glass container). Dismantled the carb, and cleaned it. Put it back together, and there was no change in the situation, (still reluctant to start at times, dies when it gets a reasonable ammount of throttle). Then went over the earth connectors, that I could see, and took to them with a wire brush and contact cleaner. Cleaned and dried the connector to what I bleieve to be the ignition circuitry, and still nothing. Also I am starting it after I do each small step, just to make sure I don't miss what fixed it. Measured the resistance of the coil, (this is getting mighty close to needing to go into the electrical forum), and it was reading about 1 ohm on the 12v side of the coil, and about 20K on the output. Does that seem right.

[awayatc]

there is all sorts of coil/electrical faultfinding threads on here and net..
On the engine itself, one side is clutch side, the other side is the electrical side.
If you take that cover off (no oil on that side then yo will see the flywheel which generates electricity and spark ....
iF that is corroded you get a weak spark.....just some fine sandpaper will cure that should that be the case.....
You checked for airleaks on carb manifold?
The air/fuel mixture screw hasn't moved? Mark starting point of air/fuelscrew and count turns in....Should not be all the be all the way in, nor all the way out
(not sure on your bike but should often be around 3 turns out, after you gently screwed it all the way in....)
Good luck

[koba]

Is the choke operating correctly?

[SS90]

a few years ago my girlfriend purchased an FXR150 with the same/similar fault.

The problem was the diaphragm in the top of the carb.

It can be hard to spot at first, and you need to pull it out, and hold it up to the light an inspect it carefully.....

If that is all OK, I would then suspect tight valves...this is normally symptomatic of hard starting/poor running when hot, then, if left unattended for time, will eventually lead to hard starting/poor running all the time...... I would first check the carb slide diaphragm (I fixed hers with a push bike puncture repair kit, then ordered a new one (from memory 60 bucks)) then, if that is OK, check the valve clearances.

The other problem that I would suspect (if these two things are all OK) is that possibly the ignition pick up is faulty....the best test is measuring the resistance (and comparing it to standard (which is generally 80 to 125 OHMS, but all bikes are different), then, heat it with a hairdryer and remeasure.....

[who_me_33]

Got it sorted, turns out the stator was stuffed, and that combined with a nearly dead battery was meaning after a bit of running, without giving it some revs, to keep the charge up, would cause it to die. Got a replacement stator off trademe, and am probably going to fit it this weekend. Not such a problem now, as I have now got my full (as of last tues), so I am riding my 400 in the meantime.